Minuit

The way Jeep allowed people to order vehicles at the time made that a bit more complicated. You could have pretty much whatever combination of options you wanted - that's why you see so many MJs with really strange configurations. I've seen a couple factory 5sp Eliminators so they're out there - it's probably just that they were specially ordered that way.

I think Eagle is correct. I believe this is what you're looking for. You may be able to find it cheaper elsewhere.

Good ideas. More information is coming soon. Obviously this is an extremely early test phase and I won't/can't get every piece of information in one iteration. Breaking up gear ratios more is a good idea, and I'll go ahead and put that in. Here's some more stuff about engines and transmissions! Jeep Comanche Buyer's Guide v0.02 Disclaimer: This guide contains information and dates specific to the Jeep Comanche (MJ) and dates in this guide reflect Jeep Comanche (1986-1992) model years only. Outline 1: Introduction 2: Overview 3: Maintenance Information 4: Issues and Solutions 5: Conclusion Part 2: Overview I: Drivetrain Engines 2.1L Renault J8S I4 Turbo Diesel (1986, early 1987): The rarest by far of the available engines. Although this engine has a poor reputation and parts are extremely scarce, many Comanche Club members consider 2.1L-equipped Comanches highly desirable due to their rarity (less than 100 diesel Comanches are estimated to exist in the United States). The 2.1L is a belt-driven overhead camshaft engine. Diesel Comanche owners: Automan2164, jeepcomj (former), opsled (former), I'm probably forgetting a few. Power output: 87hp, ?? ft-lbs 2.5L AMC 150 I4 (1986-1992): The standard and most common engine found in the Comanche throughout its production, the 2.5L engine is based on the highly reliable AMC Inline 6 family of engines. It was offered in two major generations during its production run. Although lacking in power compared to 6-cylinder engines, 2.5L engines are considered strong for their size and are expected to last well past 200,000 miles if well maintained. The manufacturer specifies 10W-30 motor oil, but recommendations vary. The 2.5L is a chain-driven overhead valve engine that does not require regular timing maintenance. - Renault-Bendix Throttle Body Injection (1986-1990): A fairly simple and reliable single-port injection system, the 2.5L TBI was Renault-Bendix's first Jeep engine control system. It is considerably simpler than Multi-Point Injection systems and is not prone to as many electrical issues as a contemporary 4.0L engine. - Mopar 'Power Tech' Multi-Point Injection (1991-1992): An updated system similar in design to the system used in the 4.0L engine, the Mopar 2.5L engine is similar in many respects to the 4.0L version and much of the same information applies. Fluid capacity: 4 qt. Power output: 117 HP/ 139 ft-lb (1986-1990), 130 HP/ 149 ft-lb (1991-1992) 2.8L General Motors LR2 V6 (1986): The original 6-cylinder option in 1986 Comanches, the 2.8L engine featured an unreliable carburetor and failure-prone oiling systems, tarnishing its reputation in the Jeep community. With its low power output, poor reliability, and marginal fuel economy compared to later engines, 1986 Comanches with the 2.8L engine are considered some of the least desirable examples. Despite its poor reputation, some 2.8L engines are known to have lasted well past 200,000 miles. Fluid capacity: 4.5 qt. Power output: 110 HP/150 ft-lb (1986) 4.0L AMC 242 I6 (1987-1992): The legendarily reliable successor to the 258 inline 6, the 4.0L engine appeared in Comanches in two different generations, with a great deal of difference between the two. The manufacturer specifies 10W-30 motor oil, but a wide variety of recommendations can be found. Due to their high zinc content (which an engine of this vintage was designed for), diesel engine oils are frequently recommended. 4.0L engines are generally expected to easily reach 200,000 miles without rebuilding if well maintained. The 4.0L is a chain-driven overhead valve engine that does not require regular timing maintenance. - Renault-Bendix (Renix) Multi-Point Injection (1987-1990): The first iteration of the 4.0L engine's fuel injection system, the French-developed Renix engine control system was considered quite advanced for its time and is in some ways more complex than its successor. Although a significant improvement on the electronic carburetors used by its predecessors, the Renix system is prone to electrical issues, particularly revolving around its insufficient chassis grounds. The Renix system does not feature easily testable diagnostics. Certain tools can interface with this system, but it does not store trouble codes, requiring testing while the engine is running. Although the Renix system is more prone to electrical issues, a well cared for Renix example can equal a Mopar engine in reliability. - Mopar 'Power Tech' (High Output) Multi-Point Injection (1991-1992): A significant upgrade to the previous Renix system, the Mopar system eliminates the knock sensor, EGR valve, a number of vacuum lines and adds first generation On-Board Diagnostics (OBD1) controlled through a 'Check Engine' light. The electrical system of this engine is considerably more robust than the Renix system, with far fewer ground-related issues. Revised cylinder heads and intake manifolds considerably increased high-end power at the expense of a higher torque peak. Fluid capacity: 6 qt. Power output: 173 HP/220 ft-lb (1987), 177 HP/224 ft-lb (1988-1990), 190 HP/225 ft-lb (1991-92) Transmissions Chrysler TorqueFlite 904 (1986): The only automatic transmission option for the 1986 model year and the only Chrysler transmission used in Comanches, this 3-speed automatic was paired to some 2.8L and 2.5L engines. Although quite reliable, it was replaced for 1987 by the computer-controlled AW4. The manufacturer specifies ATF+3 fluid, which is no longer in production. Substitute ATF+4 fluid. Fluid capacity: 8-11qt. split between fluid pan and torque converter. Verify fill level using dipstick. Gear ratios: 1: 2.45 2: 1.45 3: 1.00 R: ?? Aisin-Warner AW4 (1987-1992): The only automatic transmission found behind the 4.0L engine (as well as some 1987+ 2.5L engines), the 4-speed computer-controlled AW4 has an excellent reputation for reliability and power handling. From 1987 to 1991, this transmission featured a selectable "Power/Comfort" switch on the dash that adjusts shift points. Later AW4 units are permanently wired in the "Power" position. The AW4 is prone to overheating, so the installation of an external transmission cooler (writeup link goes here) is recommended. The AW4 is designed for Dexron-Mercon transmission fluid only. Fluid capacity: 8-10 qt. split between torque converter and fluid pan. Verify fill level using dipstick. Gear ratios: 1: 2.804 2: 1.531 3: 1.00 4: 0.753 R: 2.39 (omitting Borg-Warner T5, no proof has been found of its use in MJs) Aisin AX-4/AX-5 (1986-1992?): The manual transmission options for the 2.1L, 2.5L, and 2.8L engines, the AX-4 and AX-5 are light-duty transmissions considered sufficient for the output of their engines. While both transmissions are essentially the same design, the AX-5 features an added fifth overdrive gear for highway use. 10W-30 motor oil (regular or synthetic) is specified by the manufacturer, but Pennzoil Syncromesh and Redline MT-90 fluids are also frequently recommended. DO NOT lubricate Aisin manual transmissions with GL-5 gear oil, as the transmissions feature brass synchromesh units that will be destroyed by standard gear oils. Fluid capacity: 3.3 qt. Gear ratios: 1: 3.92 2: 2.33 3: 1.44 4: 1.00 5 (AX-5): 0.85 R: 4.74 Peugeot BA-10/5 (1987-1989.5): Aisin AX-15 (1989.5-1992): The 5-speed manual transmission option found behind 4.0L engines after late 1989. The AX-15 is a medium-duty manual transmission that is considered adequate for the 4.0L engine's power output. As with the AX-4 and AX-5, the manufacturer specifies 10W-30 motor oil, but Pennzoil Synchromesh and Redline MT-90 fluids are frequently recommended. DO NOT lubricate Aisin manual transmissions with GL-5 gear oil, as the transmissions feature brass synchromesh units that will be destroyed by standard gear oils. Fluid capacity: 3.3 qt. Gear ratios: 1: 3.83 2: 2.33 3: 1.44 4: 1.00 5: 0.79 R: 4.22 Transfer Cases To be completed Axles Front Axles Axle stuff later. Gear ratios: 2.5L, 5-speed manual: 4.10 2.5L, 4-speed manual: 3.55 2.5L, 3-speed automatic: 4.56 4.0L, 5-speed manual: 3.07 4.0L, 4-speed automatic: 3.55 Up Next: Finishing up drivetrains, adding some actual MJ specific information

That's a Fey universal rear bumper that just happens to look a lot like our stock bumpers. They're pretty much the #1 option for MJ owners replacing their bumpers that don't build their own (or build the JCR bumper) Stock rear bumpers also rust really badly from what I've seen regardless of the rest of the truck's condition.

That's nice. Are you going to make provisions for the stock end caps as well? That's the main thing holding me back from aftermarket bumpers.

Swapping another D35 in is never truly the best thing you can do but it's your best choice now especially considering your budget especially if it's already an MJ axle. Make sure it's in working order.

This stuff is amazing and I hope your business does well. I especially love repurposed things! :thumbsup:

I believe it's a '74 304 CJ. IIRC.

I'm also interested in stopping by the next one. Looks like you guys had a great turnout last time and I want to be a part of it!

The stock headlight wiring is a serious fire hazard so you'd do well to upgrade the harness when you replace the switch :thumbsup:

Another pavement queen! And a sharp paint job too! I love red and black. Looks great.

This is the thread I'll be posting my buyer's guide tests into. I'm looking for opinions on formatting, etc. that would make this as easy to read as possible. I want this to be a community effort so any and all opinions, concerns, comments, drunken ramblings, insults, and repentances are welcome here. This is by no means representative of what this will actually end up looking like. Regular CC text: Arial 14pt Here's some bare-bones sample text that's not complete and probably looks stupid as well but this is just a proof of concept. The drivetrain section is pretty universal so it probably isn't a very good indicator of something specific to Comanches! I'm just getting opinions on the formatting for now! Jeep Comanche Buyer's Guide (main title, arial 36pt) Disclaimer: This guide contains information and dates specific to the Jeep Comanche (MJ) and dates in this guide reflect Jeep Comanche (1986-1992) model years only. Drivetrain (subtitle, arial 24pt) Engines (Subsection title, arial 18pt) 2.1L Renault J8S I4 Diesel (1986, early 1987?): The rarest by far of the available engines. Although this engine has a poor reputation and parts are extremely scarce, many Comanche Club members consider 2.1L-equipped Comanches highly desirable due to their rarity (less than 100 diesel Comanches are estimated to exist in the United States). The 2.1L is a belt-driven overhead camshaft engine. Diesel Comanche owners: Automan2164, jeepcomj (former), opsled (former), I'm probably forgetting a few. Power output: 87hp, ?? ft-lbs 4.0L AMC 242 I6 (1987-1992): The final version of AMC's Inline 6 design, the 4.0L engine is well known for its reliablility and power output. Models years 1987-1990 featured a French-developed Renix injection system, an advanced system for its time. However, the Renix system's major disadvantage is its trouble-prone electrical system. For 1991 and 1992, an improved Chrysler fuel injection system was introduced. The 4.0L engine is considered by far the most desirable of the available Comanche engine choices. The 4.0L is a chain-driven overhead valve engine that does not require regular timing maintenance. Power output: 173 HP/220 ft-lb (1987), 177 HP/224 ft-lb (1988-1990), 190 HP/225ft-lb (1991-92) Transmissions (Subsection title) Aisin-Warner AW4 (1987-1992): The only automatic transmission found behind the 4.0L engine (as well as some 1987+ 2.5L engines), the 4-speed computer-controlled AW4 has an excellent reputation for reliability and power handling. From 1987 to 1991, this transmission featured a selectable "Power/Comfort" switch on the dash that adjusts shift points. Later AW4 units are permanently wired in the "Power" position. The AW4 is prone to overheating, so the installation of an external transmission cooler (writeup link goes here) is recommended. The AW4 is designed for Dexron-Mercon transmission fluid only. Gear ratios: 1: 2.804 2: 1.531 3: 1.00 4: 0.753 R: ?? Aisin AX-15 (1989.5 (more exact date of introduction?)-1992): The 5-speed manual option found behind the 4.0L engine from late 1989 to 1992, this transmission is considered more reliable than the Peugeot BA-10/5 that it replaced. Brass syncromeshes necessitates use of sulfur-free gear oil. Redline MT-90 fluid is recommended. Work in progress etc Gear ratios: 1: 2: 3: 4: 5: R: Transfer Cases To be completed Axles Front Axles 2WD Beam (1986-1992): All 2-wheel-drive Comanches feature a one-piece metal shaft in place of a driven axle. Dana 30 (1986-1992): The front axle used in all 4-wheel-drive Comanches, the Dana 30 is considered adequate for light to moderate off-road use with tires of up to 33-inch diameter. Gear ratios: To be completed Rear Axles (sub subsection title, itallic standard text) Comanche rear axles, due to its spring-under-axle construction, have spring perches mounted in different locations from an equivalent Cherokee axle. (more swap info to come) AMC-20 (1986): Differentiated from other axles by a perfectly round cover, the AMC-20 is rarely found in 1986 Comanches with the Metric Ton package. The MJ AMC-20 is considered similar in strength to the Dana 44, although it enjoys far less aftermarket support and is less well known. Gear ratios: To be completed Dana 35 (1986-1992): The standard rear axle used in Comanches not featuring the Metric Ton package. This axle is considered to be adequate for on-road use as well as light off-road use. The Dana 35 is prone to axle shaft and differential failure under high-stress situations. Some Dana 35 units feature a Trak-Lok limited slip differential. Gear ratios: 2.5L, manual: 4.10 2.5L, automatic: 4.56 4.0L, manual: 3.07 4.0L, automatic: 3.55 Dana 44 (1987-1992): By far the most desirable factory rear axle, the Dana 44 is found under 1987-1992 Comanches with the Metric Ton package. It is far more durable than the Dana 35 under all circumstances, and is capable of supporting tires as large as 38" without significant risk of failure. As with the Dana 35, some units feature limited slip differentials. Gear ratios: To be completed Up Next: Renix vs HO elaboration, filling it out with an introduction

The headlight switch and the stock headlight wiring in general is known to be a fire hazard. If you're having problems with the switch I'd be safe and order a (good) new one. It's reasonably easy to get to, you just have to pull the plastic lower dash piece off. It's held on by a flathead bolt (you'll be able to see it with the switch in the "headlight" position) To get to that bolt you have to pull the knob out (released by a little button on the bottom of the switch. There's a small hole in the metal that you can get your fingers into). Loosen that bolt and the switch is out. :thumbsup:

I remember that happened to me also with some Laredo door panels when I had crank windows. I just use a heat gun to carefully bend the handle to clear the grille; it only took 1/4" or so. But a better solution is to install power windows. :yes: Less than 10 minutes after I posted this thread, I found my other 12 year old Help! window crank (part number 76096) from back when they made them out of metal. These were what were on the truck long, long before I got it. Earlier I bought a plastic one (same part number, looked very different) and stripped the splines before I even got it installed. Pitiful. These old ones are seriously beefy though. It clears the (temporarily empty) speaker bezel just fine and looks great in the process. However, if I couldn't find my other Help crank, those were the ones I was going to go with, Jeep Driver. Thanks for the quick responses guys! :thumbsup:

I'm pretty sure it's all Philips screws and the same screwdriver works for all of them. A flathead may help to get the dash bezel off without destroying something - sometimes the clips holding it on can be stubborn.

Now that is a funny paint scheme.

Nice seats, beautiful car, even better MJ and a great build. Subscribed. :thumbsup: What are the plans for the buckets that are in it now? they look fairly clean.

Nevermind. I still wonder if they would work.

I've recently put some fancier door panels on my truck (from an 88 XJ Limited with power windows and the Jensen audio system) and my existing MJ window cranks catch on the speaker bezel and carpet. I have one old metal Dorman window crank that works (the new ones are made out of crap plastic) but I can't find another. I've seen some window handles made for YJs with door speakers that will clear the speaker bezel. My question is - can I use a window crank made for a YJ on my MJ's door shaft? It may seem like a strange question, but I'd like to know before I throw money at stuff. Thanks!

Nice ride! I bet it's fun to drive. Good riddance with that hood scoop, it was hideous. What's your opinion of the build quality and general feel of everything?

Welcome! We're all here to help so don't be afraid of asking questions no matter how dumb you may think they are. And post pics, lots of pics. We like pics here.

That's pretty.

:agree: This was a really nice truck at some point. Cargo light is a very rare option.

Do the Autozone ones come with gaskets?

Glad you're interested. Here's some more thoughts: The way I see this, there will be three stages to the project: 1. Collecting the information, figuring out what's the most important and concentrating on getting that stuff in first. During this time, I can put together the simple stuff i.e. common rust areas, trim packages (harder since you/the dealer could order an MJ with pretty much any combination of options) differences between year models, possibly a short history lesson, etc. This will mostly involve collecting the information from all of the different spots and sites. 2. Fact-checking everything. This is the important one and probably the most difficult part. There can't be any incorrect things here. There can be stuff that only applies to certain trucks (i.e. '86 firewall shenanigans) but me and everyone else won't tolerate misinformation. That's the whole objective of this. 3. Formatting to make it easy to read and understandable, particularly for those not computer savvy. A lot of the guides I see on the internet (by no means all of them) fail to be simply understood. Colors should be basic, everything should categorized in a logical order, stuff shouldn't be jumbled together, etc. This will be a long, drawn out process but I think the more time spent on making it perfect the better it will be. I have some ideas for how it'll flow. I'll throw up some examples when I have time. One more thing: There are guides out there having to do with XJs, wranglers, and so on but my vision for this is something uniquely ComancheClub's. Comanche sections on other sites are most of the time pretty slow moving, and we're the most active one but there are people that don't know about CC. That group will have many of the people we'd try to reach.