Minuit

Listening to the video all the way (only listened to the first start attempt before jumping to the ballast resistor :doh:), that is 100% exactly what mine did when the dizzy timing was off.

Does the '96 have a ballast resistor?

Possibly rear-ended considering the bed doesn't match the cab. Rear frame may or may not be straight. I wouldn't gamble 2500 on that - you can get a straight truck with a clean title for that price still, but probably not for much longer. And no, craigslist seller, a salvage title and a rattlecanned bed doesn't make your vehicle in "spectacular condition."

I've heard that cutting the muffler off solves all wind noise issues on these trucks. Way cheaper than weatherstripping :D I'll report back once I get these installed (and after I figure out where they go in the first place). I'll replace the rotten door seals first. That will probably make much more difference, but every little bit helps. Team Cherokee is the only place I can find 97+ door seals... taking my chances with them, since the dealer wants $148 per side.

Very, very, very carefully I'm assuming. Dremel and an extremely steady hand? That's the cleanest example of that swap I've ever seen. The attention to detail on this build is second to none.

$718 for a vacuum hose, plugs, a pulley and some antifreeze? Jesus. Bet it's nice to have the MJ back though :thumbsup:

@stroker: Yeah, I'm aware. I only buy things there that I can't find anywhere else and no expensive stuff. If I do get snookered, I won't be out for hundreds, I guess. My previous orders have arrived on time and without issue. @hornbrod: Why not? I would assume there's some kind of reason the factory put these things in. My truck does have considerable wind noise. I'm going to take any chance I can to improve it.

:thumbsup:

They're cheap. I suppose I'll order a set and see if they make a difference.

@stroker: looks like that's 167k. Damn. @ggcnash: You're not wrong, but I'd still rather grab a speedometer with the right mileage first.

Am I correct in saying that this is pretty much every MJ for sale in the continental US? Agreed with the above, thanks for doing this.

I don't mean to come off as rude or shoot you down, but I'm ridiculously anal about having things the "correct" way. If there's any signs of tampering (whether you can see them or not) it's not going to be good enough for me. I want things to look factory. It would bother me to no end if I didn't do it the way I am (getting a different speedo and matching the mileages). Thanks for bringing that up though, it'll doubtless be helpful to people that ain't quite as particular as me. :thumbsup:

Not 100% on this since I've never taken one apart, but I think the 91 on up clusters are set up to prevent changing the odometers. I know you can change the earlier ones, though. Or do you know a way to do this?

Long story short, I have a full cluster ready to swap in to my MJ, but the odometer on it reads about 10,000 miles more than my truck has. I want the odometer reading to stay the same when I swap to the full cluster. My truck has about 156k on it, so I want a speedometer that has between 157k and 160k. It has to come from a '91-'96 full cluster. I would junkyard this but every XJ in the one I frequent has well over 200k on it. Anyone got one?

Dakota. As if you needed another opinion.

IMO the point of NOS parts isn't that they look any different (you can clean up an old pair to look 95% as good as an NOS pair), but just the fact that you have a basically brand new example of a very desirable part. That and some people can justify throwing that much money at an MJ.

Just curious, as I've never heard of this part before... I was browsing TeamCherokee (I know, but some things you just can't get from anyone else) and came across this: http://teamcherokee.com/a-pillar-foam-bumper-seals-oem-cherokee-1994-1996/ Anyone know what this does or where it goes? The listing says it can be applied to earlier model XJs and MJs, but does it actually do anything?

Well, I replaced the expansion valve back in 2013, which got it working the first time. While the truck was sitting (6 months) and a couple of months before that the system hadn't been run. At the time I suspected the line coming out of the compressor was leaking. Not feeling like diagnosing yet ANOTHER leak, I took it down to the only shop I trust and they told me it wasn't leaking (the refrigerant will always naturally seep out over time even if the system is in tip-top shape), so they charged it up and it's working great. I was cold coming back from Pull 'n' Save today and mine is running R134a. With R12 it would be even better.

Thanks Buck! Glad you appreciate it. Having A/C sure is nice especially in this weather. The heat's not so bad, but the d@mn humidity ruins everything. It was a good experience to drive my truck and NOT be profusely sweating before I left the driveway. Now for the heater core... :fs1: I'll be going to the junkyard tomorrow for some unnecessary but nice goodies. All I need right now is more Jeep parts sitting around. :doh:

5 bucks says they didn't even consider that. The purpose of this build is no doubt just for show (and of course, advertising kickbacks from the companies they used parts from)

The A/C works now! :banana:

Very nice.

Also you may want to bring some extensions to get to the upper bolts for the bumper. They can be tricky sometimes.

For the bumper, you need a T50 Torx socket. The bumper is held on by speednuts that are very prone to breaking so be careful and bring penetrating oil. Not sure on the doors.

Wow, the seat looks great. I have a set just like those waiting to go into mine. I keep trying to find a good condition cover for one in the JY but I haven't had any luck.