Minuit

Just wanted to chime in that bolting up the LSV that way is a very common and easy mistake to make. Someone probably changed the gear oil (or unbolted it from the diff cover for some other reason) and didn't pay attention to how it went back. You'll probably notice a serious improvement to your braking, since having it in that position pretty much turns your rear brakes off completely.

Want it to look factory. Although I suppose the correct term is "plug". I've been up for a while today.

Here's an odd one. I need the grommet plug that plugs the hole for the automatic column shifter cable. It's an ~1-1/2" round grommet plug located at the very top driver side corner of the engine bay near where the clutch master cylinder would be on a manual truck. Should be found on floor shift auto and stick shift MJs - never seen it on an XJ. Anyone have one? The '91 very recently became a floor shift and the hole for the column shift cable is no longer relevant.

If you can't find one from a Jeep I'm 98% sure that one from a GM vehicle with the same column will work. Our trucks use GM steering columns after all and most parts will interchange.

Well hot sweet diggity damn, I actually did something to my truck this summer! Just a teaser since I have no idea when I'll be able to write this up.

Both higher level XJs and ZJs can have them but the only way to know for sure is to measure. If I remember correctly mine came from a Sport. Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

You'll like the 28mm bar. I found it really cuts down on the body roll. My 89 still has the tiny 24mm bar, so the first time I made a hard turn in it it was quite a surprise. :D Sent from my LG-D850 using Tapatalk

A Comanche could be ordered with pretty much any combination of options, but certain packages came with certain options - e.g. you'll never see a bench seat column shift Eliminator since the Eliminator package came with bucket seats. If your truck was special ordered you could get some seriously wacky combinations. One I've seen is a fully decked out '87 (so the 4.0 was available) with an automatic transmission and I think even the heavy duty rear end, but a 4 cylinder engine. So it's entirely possible that that is how your truck came from the factory, but it's also possible that it could've been swapped in. The Chief was one of the higher trim levels, so chances are an automatic Chief would come with a floor shift. I swapped in a floor shifter and tilt column into my '91 this week with absolutely no modifications whatsoever to the truck itself. As a general rule, even the most basic Comanche is set up for pretty much every option, it's just missing the parts.

Even more impressive is the elusive numbers matching Comanche with 2 VINs. :D

Wow! Those must be super rare!

I saw a contractor driving a manual 2004-2008 body style F-150 the other day and I had to do a double take. I didn't know they made them even that late. I love my AX-15, even if the truck it's bolted to is in need of some love. Almost everyone I'm friends with with that's my age knows how to drive a manual and many own manual cars, so I'm not sure where people get the "yungin's can't drive stick" thing from.

Wow, that looks great, especially the interior. Ravines class up pretty much anything they go on :thumbsup: Can't wait to get a set for mine.

Alright sweet, thanks guys for a speedy response :)

Alright, here's a good one. I'm putting together a tilt steering column for my 91 and it has intermittent wipers. Should the wiper switch click for every intermittent setting? On mine, it doesn't click until the LO and HI settings for the wipers. I'm thinking the wiper switch in the column is busted, but just wanted to confirm before I put it in the truck.

Not without some serious work. The later Chrysler radios are way too big to fit in the MJ's dash. The only OEM CD player that will fit in the MJ's dash is extremely rare. The AM/FM/Cassette radio can be easily modified to take an aux input though.

Well, guess I've already learned something today. Wonder if the design makes them any more difficult to replace than a standard round bushing? Sent from my LG-D800 using Tapatalk

Here is where I got that information from. I absolutely refuse to cut on the '91 so they were out of the question for me. WJ arms are exactly stock length.

Here's what my old bushings looked like. These reduced the caster angle enough to make the truck very, very darty at 60+ mph and pretty much unalignable. That was immediately fixed after I put the new control arms in even without an alignment. In my view the newest used WJ control arm you can get is 12 years old now and probably has more than 100k on it so the bushings are pretty much spent. If I was going to go through all the work I would spring for new control arms. I'm not sure if you can replace the oval bushings or not. Photographic proof of the proper width to cut the bushings to. I'd hate to believe some hack's measurements on the internet and ruin my control arms by cutting them down too small :D

More stuff that I just forgot about. New post so it won't get ninja'd. The stock lower control arm bushings are 66.5mm wide at both ends. The WJ control arm bushings are 72.5 mm at the axle (round) end and 79 mm at the frame (oval) end. You'll need to trim the bushing sleeves down to make them fit. You could be a dork like me and measure, or you could just trim a little bit off at a time until they fit. For full articulation you'll want to trim the shock mount a little bit too. The WJ UCAs need a bit more work, I believe you have to take off some of the frame end UCA mount. I just went with the stock replacements because I didn't want to cut anything. I noticed an improvement in handling and comfort with the WJ LCAs as well as a drastic improvement in caster angle, although my original lower control arm bushings were very badly worn.

The UCA bushings in the axle are readily available. Moog K3128. It says it services one control arm, but in your case it'll service one axle too. The bushings are the same as the ones in the control arms, just pressed into the axle instead of the control arm. Here's a tip for you: a 4.0 main bearing cap is exactly the right size and shape to wedge into the control arm mount to stop the mount from folding over when you press the bushings.

Do you have a test light? Check for power at the fuel pump connector. Check the ground behind the left (I think it's the left anyway) tail light. That's where the fuel pump grounds. If you bought an Airtex brand pump there definitely is trash in your gas tank... the fuel pump. Those pumps tend to live short and very loud lives. Go with a Bosch, even if you have to do a little work to make it fit.

For pretty much all MJ specific parts there isn't any new ones being made, so your only options are to find one in a junkyard or find someone that's selling what you need on here. People will probably try to tell you that 2dr Cherokee rear flares fit, and this is NOT the case. They have to come from a Comanche. As far as what does interchange with an XJ, pretty much everything that's located in front of the seats is the same as an XJ. Most of the interior does not interchange, but the dash, kick panels, and door panels do. The seats are the same seats as a 2dr Cherokee but on different floor brackets. If you have the floor brackets for Comanche bucket seats, you can bolt pretty much anything on to them. Exterior wise, the doors and everything in front of them are the same as a similar year Cherokee.

This is my favorite kind of truck. Simple, understated, but everything just works. You're really making me want one of those Wagoneer dash bezels now :D

You have the Torqueflite. The AW4 didn't appear until the 1987 model year.

I got about 300 miles out of a parts store CPS. Fortunately it had the good sense to die when the truck was parked at home. Another parts store CPS has been good since then but I'm going Mopar or bust on anything important from now on. You can feel the quality difference with Mopar parts vs aftermarket.