shelbyluvv

I'm betting it is aftermarket. As no MJ can from the factory with a sunroof installed. A few dealers would have them installed for them. 80s cars are my passion. Even every T-Top Daytona went to Cars&Concepts to have them installed.

For the price of a used sunroof I would buy a new one. The seals will be crusty and the drain tubes will be as well. For $50 more you can get a new one.

I have the Monroe ReFlex on my Cummins and they are amazing. They are the best riding shock I have ever put on a stock vehicle. I'm not sure if they make them for MJs but if you have a 3/4 ton truck they are awesome!

Jim, What were you searching on CL to come up with that image, lol!

My 00 XJ didn't have the full rack up top. It stopped above the rear doors. EDIT: I found this by Googling the VIN 1997 Jeep Cherokee - VIN 1J4FJ78S2VL589798 There are 1 records stating that this vehicle is for sale at auto auctions. To get more information order the Full Report. Auction sales: Sale Date: Jan 6, 2014 VIN: 1J4FJ78S2VL589798 Year: 1997 Make: Jeep Model: Cherokee Style/Body: SPORT UTILITY 4-DR Engine: 4.0L L6 OHV 12V Country of Assembly: UNITED STATES

I think the bad pinion setup whiped out your new gears. I would have the shop pay to replace them with a new master install kit.

Look at the third sticky in the forum. Basically contact Pete and tell him what you want, give a generous donation to Pete and receive "swag".

Both 84 models too. Nice! Keep the stock nose cover if you do a Shelby conversion. The 4 head light beak is 84 only on the Rampage. The Charger/Duster used them until 87 though. There is a ton of mods out there for the 2.2 T1 motor. They can very easily push over 275 horse on stock internals. I removed the T1 suck through induction and went to a T2 blow through system. It's a bolt on.

Now you have 2 Pages?! Those wheels are rare! I haven't seen a set in years. I still like them. I had them on a Omni 024 back in the late 80s.

I think you made an offer, he accepted. You should go get them. That's how it works. I hate when someone makes an offer then just vanishes. That is why I don't hold things for people. If someone shows up with cash first they get it. I've been burned a few times like that.

You may want to read the reviews. I did a quick google search and came up with a few plesant reviews for them. I'd stay away if it was my money. I'd fix my oil leak, run my tapping 4.0, then get a JY motor and build my own storker. That's just me though.

I sold the Rampage in 2004. It was lowered by doing an axle flip and cutting the front coils. The nose was from a Shelby Charger. The side skirts are from a Taurus and Firebird. I installed a sunroof from a Daytona and put a bench seat out of a Plymouth Acclaim in place of the buckets. The rear bumper was off a GLH Omni. Lastly, the wheels were off a Nissan 200 SE-R. I had it painted candy apple red pearl and a local sign shop made the Rampage stripe. The SC is still in my garage. It currently has 71,171 miles on it. I have done a ton of work to the motor and it runs mid 11s in the 1/4. Last time out it was on 22 psi and a 75 shot of nitrous. I have owned it since June of 97. I bought it from a local dealer for $2500 and it only had 59,000 miles on it. I love the car. Thus the shelbyluvv screen name. I don't have a lot of pics of either one in digital form. Not my car but they are I dentical. This is my car (horrible pic)

UPROMISE124 $10 off orders over $30, $25 off orders over $70, $40 off orders over $110. Online only.

That is why you use a eye dropper. Small drips will not hydrolock it. I had a 79 Dodge Omni that would "diesel" after I drove it. A old man told me about the wayer trick and it worked. I've done it a few times on different vehicles.

I was stoked to see this truck as MJOTM! Great job on the truck.

Take a eye dropper and drip a few drops of water down the carb for a few minutes. Not a lot. Just a 10-20 drips a minute for a few minutes. The water will steam off the carbon deposits on the pistons and valves. Ever pulled a head and seen the cylinder with the blown gasket was spotless? Same idea on a safer scale.

I bet your state wasn't in the thread title. Please see the rules at the top of the classified section and ask yourself this question. "Did my post comply with the forum rules?"

No, stock joints are fine. You are seriously over thinking this. Do the SOA and set the pinion in line with the t-case. You will not need a longer SY. You have a long bed and it will be happy with the driveline angles. Start researching shock mounts now. That is a whole new ball of wax on a MJ.

CJs had a passenger side drop D30

I just ordered $600 worth of stuff through RK. When my shipment arrived it was missing two parts out of the box. The box was not damaged during shipment. They simply did not put the parts in the box. This has set me back three days getting my Cummins put back on the road. I will never buy from them again. This is not the first time they have screwed up my order. I will use either a local vendor or Summit Racing from now on.

Hey, I resemble that remark!

Cycle the key three times and check the codes too

I checked the truck over in July before I drove it from California to Georgia. If you know the Dodge 2500 Cummins, you know they are hell on suspension and steering parts. I know the front end was tight 7 months ago. I am the one who looked it over. There is not a lot of play in the tie rods but they do have enough movement to make me want to change them out. The wheel bearing on the other hand are bad. There is no way they checked them. You can clearly hear and feel them moving. I'll have all the parts in hand by Friday night and will have her back on the road by Saturday evening.

It was not Discount Tire. There isn't one anywhere near here. It was a local shop that does tires, shocks, brakes, alignments and all around maintenance. I am not impressed at all with the "southern hospitality" I've seen here in Georgia this time around. I can honestly say that I will not be staying in the southeast. I will eventually find my way back to the southern California desert.

I very rarely climb on my soap box. I'm going to so if you don't want to read my sermon please vacate the area now. I bought a new set of Cooper Discoverer ATPs for Buffy (my 07 CTD) from Discount Tire Direct. They are a great tire and are ridiculously affordable. A set of LT285/70R17 will run just under $700 shipped! Find a E range tire with a 55k warranty for close to that. You'll be hard pressed to. This rant is not about DTD. They had the tires to me in 3 days! Now that I procured my new meats I took the truck in to have them mounted and balanced. I specifically asked them to check the front end over to make sure it was tight BEFORE mounting the tires. I was told it was perfect. The reason I wanted it looked at is because I had a shimmy at 55 mph on the highway. They mounted and balanced the tires and sent me on my way. I got her up to speed and the shimmy was still present. I chalked it up to an alignment. I decided to take her to the hobby shop on base for a once over before I pay to have the alignment done. Here is where my rant starts. There is no way in hell they checked the truck over before mounting my tires. Upon my inspection I found the following worn parts, All ball joints both hubs all tie rod ends loose steering gear and soft track bar bushings. You have got to be kidding me! If I knew these parts were worn I would have never mounted my new tires. I located all new Moog joints and rod ends along with Timken hubs on Rockauto for $560 shipped. Good deal but it still irritates me that people can be so worthless in a tire shop. An actual tire shop! I will never trust my truck to another shop, ever. From this point on I will do all my own work. No matter how crappy the job is. Rant off