shelbyluvv

Johnny you are the man!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1992-jee ... 4cecccd8d5

Rob L. Dayem, she's pretty. :cheers: What does it have for a drivetrain? I love those old Willys p/u's. :bowdown: I can has the W2fiddy?

You mean these tires and wheels? They are factory TJ Rubicon take offs. 16X8 Rubicon Moabs with 245/75/16 Goodyear Wrangler MTRs. I paid $175 for all five wheels and tires.

Wade your CPS is going bad. Buy an new one and throw it in the glove box. You will need it one of these days.

My wife (5'4") and I took the beed off our truck. They are a lot lighter than you would think. Welcome to the Club.

The last time he posted on NAXJA was 10/10/09, I hope he is ok.

IIRC, you can only delete posts that do not have a different poster below your post. If the thread looks like this, your post, my post, pete's post your post you can only delete the bottom post. If you are the only poster in the thread, you can delete the whole thread.

I can get it to south western PA in a couple weeks. If you have someone around the Pittsburgh area I can drop it off for free.

See my post above. It is a factory piece.

is that an actual mesure of a stock shaft? i ask because... posted in green and has a manual, (your shaft should be an inch longer) or is his shaft the wrong one? (not original? wich would explain the intact sticker) also...2.5 came with an ax15 behind it? news to me I measured it last night. It is the stock shaft out of my truck. There may be a 1/8" here or there but that is what it measured to be.

89, SWB, 4.0L, AW4, 2WD, D35 = 53 1/8"

I got one for $30 plus shipping. Where are you located?

I hate mud. It is fun for about an hour. The 3-5 hours of cleaning it what kills it for me. I really hate turning wrenches on ANYTHING that has been anywhere near the mud. You can never get that crap out of the knooks and crannies.

It is possible... Just extremly time consuming. I am about 70% done with mine. I need a few parts to really finish her. The goal (IE needs to be running) is by this spring. The major things that need to be addresed are, Steering column, firewall, seat brackets, fuel lines, fuel gauge sender, tail light wiring, door strikers, master cyl brake lines, dash mounts, parking brake lever, fuse panel, and the seat belts retactors. It is a ton of work but it is fun.

Keep your head up Joe. You will be wrenching in no time! :cheers:

How did YOU get banned from a forum? I was not always such a nice guy. Let's just say you can't call GoTopless a Fat, ugly, Bia and get away with it. Especially when she is dating the owner of the board. :D I hated that place anyhow. It was back when I was playing in the OT section of JU with JPNJIM and the rest of the clowns. Good times.

I am perma banned from JF. Oh well, I like CC better anyhow.

Please understand the the 97 swap is not a easy thing to do. You will need to address the wiring (interior, engine, taillights), fuel system, seat brackets, door strikers, firewall, steering column, brake lines, parking brake lever, and a bunch of other nick nack stuff.

Firmly grasp the ignition lock... And pull to the right. Now you have your lock out. What about getting the steering wheel to unlock or starting the Jeep until the replacement parts are procured? Well, me being the impatient one that I am I broke the plastic cover on the column. The rod that controls the steering lock and ingition switch is right there. You can accomplish the next step without busting your column up. It just has to be done from under the dash. Grab the rod and push it forward. Here you can see the steering wheel lock engaged (pointed thing at the top of the column) And here it is released. Reassemble everything in reverse order and you will be able to start and drive your Jeep without a key. This is not suggested but if you are in a bind this will get you out of it rather quickly

I believe this is for a non-tilt column. Here is the procedure, For starters remove your horn cover, and steering wheel nut. Then put your steering wheel/pulley puller in place and remove the steering wheel. Push the black cam lock cover down and shove a screw driver in to hold it down. This is so you can get to the snap ring at the bottom of the steering wheel mount. Use a sharp small screw driver to get the snap ring moved into a easy to get to position. Once in position, use another screwdriver with a small blade to, gently pry the snap ring up while keeping it from spinning with the second screwdriver. Watch the threads on the steering column they are sharp! Ask me how I know. After you get the snap ring out of it's groove pull it off and set it someplace you will not lose it. BE CAREFUL HERE! The cover in under pressure. Not a lot but better safe than sorry. Apply steady FIRM pressure to the cam lock cover and remove the screwdriver and slowly release the pressure from the spring below it. Now you can remove the cover and see the turn signal cams. Remove the center and the spring below it and set them in a safe place as well. Remove the screw holding the turn signal arm in place and put the screw and lock place with your other parts. Here you can see the three screws that hold the turn signal can in place. Remove these screws and keep them seperate. They are a special thread. Remove the Hazard pull knob. Disconnect the plug on the lower right side of the steering column. It is right above the brake pedal. With these two parts removed you can now pull the cam up and over the steering wheel mount threads. Here is the bolt that holds the ignition lock in place. Use a 5/16 socket and remove it.

How far in North GA? I am not really sure what you are asking? Are you looking for a donor to do a 4.0 4x4 swap? A full 97+ conversion? I am in Acworth, 90MJext (Bill) is just up the road from me a bit, Whamm is over in Stockbridge, smartazz19 (Jeremy) is in Marietta, and Oizarod115 is down in Atlanta. Ed in North GA is waaaay over there in Hiawassee. There are a few of us in the area.

DO NOT PUT ARMS IN THE STOCK UPPERS LOCATION!!!! It will either buckle the arm or rip the mounts off the axle or body. I tried the same thing when I had my RK 3 link. I was worried there was not enough support for daily driving in the event of a failure. I tried it, it failed. If it is diving, you have a weak shock or coil. You have the first Gen kit. If you call and talk sweet to Heather she will normally give you the Gen II upgrade for a discount.

Before he put the 4X4 part in his post it said, "hi. I'm looking for a good shape front wheel bearing for a 87 dana 30. i have one thats bad but need a replacement till i can get a job again. please let me know if u do. thanks mike." Pete, you okay buddy? How many 2WDs had a D30 axle? I was going to ask the same thing before I though about for a second, lol! :rotf:

See my HP and TQ numbers. That is on a 4 cylinder. It is a MOPAR 2.2 turbo. The 2.2 makes a lot of TQ. It is actually very difficult to launch a FWD Mope. They tend to boil the hides way too easy. If you do get them to hook hard out of the hole. You will either snap a axle shaft or send the diff through the case. I have a couple trannies laying around with new inspection ports in them, lol!