shelbyluvv

This whole post sounds shady to me. OP, please provide more insight why you have to be sneaky to get this truck recovered. To all, please do not provide this thread with anything that can be used to get this truck running. My gut tells me he is up to something no good.

Thanks CW. It means a lot coming from you. :cheers: Sadly I don't have a welder. The world can look out next year when I get settled into my permanent house. I will be moving one last time and buying a house in 29 Palms California to retire from the Marines. This is when I will get ALL the big tools I have been wanting. I would play hell moving them every couple years. Not so much now.

Dunno? You want it? It needs a sending unit and "J" bolts. The one in my 88 has rusted so bad it's empty. :( You still remember how to get to the house? You can have it Pete.

The 86 Starlline RV conversion I had was pretty rare. Though not a factory option they were sold new on the dealership lots. I also had a 86, base, 4X4, 2.5, A/C, black paint, chrome bumpers, with full black interior and black carpet. I have never seen another BASE truck with these options. I wish I still had it...

The 99 pump will have 4 wires on it. The heavy orange and black wires are for the pump. The other 2 thinner gauge wires (1 is black w/ green tracer, not sure of the other color, It might be pink) are for the fuel gauge. The gauge wiring is useless to you. The two years are not compatible to run the gauge correctly. You need to have someone turn the key on and test the wiring coming out of the truck. There will be between 5-11 volts coming out of one of the wires. It changes from intial pump kick to fuel pressure step down. This will be the hot wire for the pump. Test the other wires to ground (from frame to wires) using a continuty check, and see which one is the ground. The ground from the thuck will hook into the heavy gauge black ground wire on the pump. Good luck, but this should get the job done for you.

The X/MJ door has a sliding hinge inside the door. There is about a half inch of adjustment up and down. You can also move the front of the door out and in with this. To get it to move away or closer to the mount you either add or remove the shims between the hinge and the door. The "factory" fix is move of a bandaid to fix hinges that are just starting to crack and sag. Once they get so far you either have to weld a backer plate in or use Wrenchmonkey's fix. I choose to use the later.

This is a stronger fix and it is cheaper. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=986973

Dunno? You want it? It needs a sending unit and "J" bolts.

Use sheet metal screws to temporarily hold your mounts in place. DO NOT PERMANENTLY BOLT IT DOWN YET. You were warned. Put your bed back on and put the tank into place. Hopefully it lines up and fits correctly. If not adjust your location until you get these measurements. You want 1/2" of clearance to the drivers side frame rail, a inch or so to the rear brake line mess, about two inches from the front of the cab. you will need 1" from the center of the parking brake cable bracket to your inside piece of 1x2 It hangs down a bit lower than a stock tank and you will need to have a 3" tube rear shaft made to clear if you plan on running less than 4" of lift. Enven then it might still rub the tank under a bottom out condition. This truck will never see that but it will be getting the 3" tube rear shaft for safety's sake.

Pull your nice shinny Astro Van straps out of the package. There are two sides to them. One will be 5" from the bolt to where the strap gets fat and the other will be 6" to the fat part. Beat the 5" side flat, do not hit the bolt, and drill a hole through the 1x2 and put a nut on the bolt sticking through. Tighten it down. Drill a hole directly across form it on your other piece of 1x2 for the "J" bolt. You will need to elongate the hole on the back side to get the flat part of the "J" bolt through. it should look like this when done test fit your tank and repeat for the other one. You may need to rebend the straps a little to get them to fit correctly.

cut your 1 1/2"x2 1/2" a 1/2" from the bottom to hug the 1"x2" (these will be the tank stand offs) and repeat this on the other side. I made mine 36" long. test fit it on your first mounts. (ensuring the 1/2" cut is towards the bed floor) make another one to match your first one.

I got the rest of my parts today to finish most of the tank install. You will need, 80" of 1"x2" (1/4" wall thickness) rectangular tubing 72" of 1 1/2"x2 1/2" (1/4" wall thickness) rectangular tubing 2 stock MJ tank strap "J" bolts 2000-2005 Chevy Astro fuel tank straps (Part # ST184 from Rockauto) Various nuts and bolts Here is how I did it. Take your bed off and locate the 4 stock tank mounts, Then using a grinder chop them off, cut the 1x2 to expose the end leaving about 3 1/4" then bend the first inch over (heat is your friend here) Mark where the center bed rib will go through and fillet the tube to look like this (you will use bolts through the ears to mount it) Cut the other end to clap around the rear bed brace (just like the front) Test fit it to make sure it fits your bed braces, Now make another one,

I have a header panel just north or Atlanta. It is complete and has the factory wiring for fog lights.

Thanks Paul. I did not spend near as much time detailing parts as you did. I am building it more as a driver and weekend (easy) wheeler for the wife. I think she will enjoy her new truck. That is if I can keep her out of my (soon to be) 4 door MJ.

The firewall and dash are the biggest issues. The interior wiring will test your patience as well. I cut the Xj's firewall out and used it as a cover for the column holes. It is not an easy swap and it should not be taken lightly. You will need a lot of time to pull it off. I have been at it for 18 months and some change. Make sure if you do decide to try it you give yourself more time than you anticipated. Nothing under the hood lines up. You will have to mount the washer, cruise servo, ecm, purge solenoid, and numerous other little things. No worries man. If you give it a shot take time off when it gets to be a burden and keep the donor around as long as humanly possible. This will keep you from asking people in parking lots or friends with XJs to see their engine, firewall, or any other area you forgot how to assemble.

I used the 97 XJ's fuel line, from the engine to the tank, as well. I re-bent it so it would follow the frame and back of the cab. Other than that all I used was a 19 gallon TJ tank and a 97-99 TJ cluster. My fuel gauge works properly and the engine has the proper fuel pressure to stay happy. I am glad the tank issues are worked out and she runs... FINALLY :cheers:

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The gauges are slightly different between the two. The TJ fuel sender values are different than the XJ's. You need to make sure that if you use a TJ pump you use a TJ cluster and vice versa. You can also just replace the gauge sender on the side of pump to either TJ or XJ. It just clips on the pump module.

Nope, I have my unmolested tank sitting in the garage. I beat my head against the wall trying to figure out a work around to cutting the tank up. I like the TJ gauge cluster better than the XJ one. I really wanted to use it in my truck. Mainly to be different than all the other 97+ trucks out there. I spent entirely too long on this fuel system. It will be worth it in the end though.

I have a similar set up from Copperhead Fab. http://copperheadfab.com/index.php?action=productview&productid=203 I'll give it to you for $50 shipped. I found out the slosh tray in the tank will get in the way of the TJ pump. If you want to hack the tray out it could work. I lost interest in the idea fairly quickly. I should have stayed to course I think. It would have been easier in the long run. I have the mounts for the TJ tank figured out. I am waiting for my straps to get here from Rockauto. Here is a sneak peak of the tank mounts. I took pics of each and every step to make this. Once the straps get here I will do a full show and tell of the process for y'all.

I got it to fire up! Check my build thread for the video.

I got it running! This was the first fire with the 04 TJ tank and pump. I primed the system, bled the air out through the schrader valve, and this is what we got. The tank is currently just hanging on some tie down straps. It also currently does not have any anti-freeze or power steering fluid in it, and it is just an open header. Thus the reason for the quick shut down. I am so happy it ran. This is the first time it has ran since September of 2008!

I got the TJ tank brackets roughed in today. More to come once I get my tank straps from Rockauto.

The WJ went to the coil pack in 1999 on the 4.0. The XJ followed in 2000.

I feel your pain Tim! I am on my 4th MJ, had probably 20+ XJs, and I DD a 04 WJ.