johnj92131

But if I start from the left door and pull it into the cabin, how will I get it from the cabin into the right side door? Somehow, it seems I still have to get the end from the cabin into one door or the other door. Anyone?

Can anyone tell me how to get the factory power window plugs into the doors? I have tried several times to "push" the wiring harness thru the access hole behind the kick panel. I can not seem to get it past the access hole. Please enlighten me. Don't really want to try enlarging the access hole. Thanks

I like the idea of a 6 cylinder CRD. Must be REAL rare... :banana:

I had 4 sets of seats, bad 2 door seat and good 4 door seats. Had a shop disassemble the seats, pick the best of the parts and put them back together. One of the sets of buckets came from a Commanche I found in a yard were 4 door seats - took those for the seat mounting brackets. Found a great set of 4 door buckets, then all I had to do was scrounge for 2 door seats in any condition. Took a while, but it can be done.

I have an extra set of black rear stock fender flares. Not sure what it would cost to ship them from San Diego to Washington. Send me a PM with your Zip code and I'll see what it will cost to ship.

I saw a Toyota Tacoma last weekend with a VW 1.9 TDI. He has goosed up the power with a chip, bigger turbo and larger intercooler. Used an Acme adapter to mate the VW to the Toyota 5 spd. Said he gets 30 mpg and I believe it. His engine should put out at least 140 hp and 275 ft/lbs of torque. I own a 96 VW Passat TDI and chipped my engine just this weekend. Here is an example of the power increase: http://malonetuning.com/?page_id=62 Go down the page to "Stage 3". Adds 40 hp and 75 lbs/ft or torque. Does this (in part) by taking stock boost from 12 lbs to 17.5 lbs. Also changes the fuel maps. As a bonus, it takes close to 200 lbs out of the truck. Understand the OM617 Mercedes is bullet proof. But the power output is low, even in the turbo version. Understand the injection pump is the power bottleneck.. Might want to look for a 5 cylinder engine from a Sprinter. It would be a CDI engine and can be chipped for a few hundred dollars.. Much more modern.

Get those "map pockets" frm a 4 door Cherokee at a pick and pay yard. Cherokee is much easier to find that a like Comanche. As for the behind the seat panel, That will be difficult to find. May want to make one yourself. Here is a Ebay auction with a great behind the seat picture. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/AMC-Jeep ... ars_Trucks (Some one should save and post this picture) One recent find at the pick n pay was a like new bottle jack. Will look great when I properly mount the rear panel and clean up the tire iron.

Here is a link for a diesel Commanche. viewtopic.php?f=26&t=22729 Has been posted several times on CraigsList. Call the guy.

A weight distributing hitch will let you move the weight to all 4 wheels. Brakes are the single most important thing when towing. Then keep your distance so you have lots of room to stop. Your truck can tow the 5000 lbs per the factory when properly equipped.

Second this suggestion. Get rid the friction by using a couple of pipes. Use two, four, six or eight. What ever it takes. How do you think the Egytian's moved limestone blocks for miles? No UFO's or alien help there. Other alternative. Get some sheet Steel, put building on sheet steel. Drag building on sheet steel, if it won't move, add water on top of steel so it will slip. JJ

Please tell me what you actually mean by a drop hitch? I have an adjustable weight distributing receiver mounted hitch. The ball and sway control platform are height adjustable with two sets of bolts. This allows the trailer to be mounted in a level position while towing. By first adjusting the height of the ball and then setting the spring bars. bot the front and the rear of the trailer are at the same height. I currently use this setup on my Isuzu Rodeo to tow a 22 ft 4500 lbs trailer. Plan to move it over to my 91 Comanche very soon. Need to add an electronic brake controller to the Comanche and I should be set. Long range plans call for a very long arm stroker crankshaft to power the rig. JJ

You could use your stock bumper (or make up a new one) that has a carrier. Either have it swing away or swing down and out of the way: If you were to use your stock bumper, you could just make up something simple and bolt it on the other side of the bumper bracket for support. If that be the case, you could probably use off the shelf trailer spare tire carriers and make them work too as a common trailer bolt pattern is 5"x4.5". Ben, looks very simple in concept. Like the idea of using common trailer spare tire carrier. Lots of them and prices are very reasonable. Just want to ask how you would strengthen the stock bumper? I like what I see in JCR's rear supports for the heavy duty rear bumper. Still think a swing away would be best...thinking about adding a second gas tank and an eventual diesel conversion. But that is a couple of years away. JJ BTW I have a good bolted on factory accessory hitch installed in 1991.

The smart thing to do is use the long stroke crank from the 4.2 in place of the short stroke crank of the 4.0 in the 4.0 blockand head. that gives you 4.5 ltrs displacement. search: Jeep Stroker for all the details. JJ

Wonder if I can swap the window glass from a 97+ into the older doors?

Right now, I am looking at a way to have a bumper mounted spare tire on my Commanche. The Cherokee tire carrier mounted to the body is not a good solution. I see a number of Cherokee Bumper mounted tire carriers that swing away. Including a Jeep factory one for the Cherokee. These seem to require a major reinforcement for the stock bumper. Has anyone done anything like this? Appreciate any information/thoughts you may care to share. John Jackson

Why not Give these people a call: viewtopic.php?f=24&t=21937&p=226125&hilit=JCR+BUMPER#p226125 JCR I mean. Saw a post about a year ago with a link to there Comanche specific rear bumper. Not on their web site last time I looked. Also, have seen NOS Comanche chrome rear bumpers listed on Ebay for about $350 or so. Somebody in California seems to have a number of them. As I recall the JCR custom rear bumper was the same price or less. Shipping could be an issue.

Second on the mirrors. Nice upgrade. I have one on the drivers side installed. Better view. Have not installed passenger side mirror till I get the power mirror control worked out. Put 2 door wing back buckets in place of the factory bench seat. They are better seats, look Great, match the upgraded interior. But I am sure there are better buckets to use. Meaning more comfortable. Some Toyota Supra buckets are supposed to be very good. When I find a set, I will look hard at them. Volvo seats can be very comfortable as well.

Looking for any information about running Borla Headers on my 91 Comanche. Anyone here with first hand info about Borla headers on a Comanche (any year). Thanks,

You are right about the 2 door XJ seats being nice to have. But the 4 door is much easier to find. You can look for 2 door seats then when you get them all you really need is the frame with the tilt mechanism. Everything else can be swapped from the four door seats. It cost me about $150 to swap in good cushions from one set of seats, good covers from another set all onto a set of XJ 2 door buckets. There is an Ecology yard off of Mission in Oceanside(?). I check it every few months, but you are relatively close to it. Suggest you check there for 2 door seats. May take a while, but you should find them eventually. Hey, you have time, right? I have also seen one or two Comanche's there over the last 18 months. I am in Scripps Ranch, drop me an email/PM.

If you can get the in door and cross body harness from a 2 door XJ of the same year - take it and the window controls inside door handle. The terminations at the control switch are different from the 2 door to 4 door. You will see if you find a 2 door with power windows.

I did this door swap when my truck was wrecked. Found a pair of doors from a Cherokee with P/W and P/D. Cost me $200 for the set. $100/door. My suggestion, shop around. Also pay attention to the wiring harnesses. If I had to do it again, I would look for a 97 + door with p/w and p/locks. True, the right door will not permit the glove box to be fully opened without opening the door. But I like the 97 power windows and the no wing window line in the one piece window glass view. But the whole truck has been freshly painted now, so we will see were it goes. Also got a pair of 97+ door weather stripping last weekend. Hope they cut down on wind noise. Looks like a very easy swap.

Real question is how far are you going to drag/tow it? What kind of brakes do you have on the drag/tow vehicle? What geography and traffic are you towing in. I wrecked a trailer and tow vehicle on an 8 mile trip along flat, lightly traveled weekend San Diego Freeways about 12 years ago. So I am now MUCH more conservative. Problem was I did not have the trailer properly loaded, it was @$$ heavy and the tail wagged the dog in a very gentle merge situation. Nobody hurt at all, just $10K damage to my truck and trailer. Cheap at twice he price. Yes, full electric brakes, sway control and class 3 hitch. My suggestion, keep it slow, allow lots of distance to stop. See how it works. You should be OK for a few miles. JJ

The 5000 lbs tow rating required Big Ton/Metric Ton package. The Dana 44 had brake shoes wider than the stock Comanche by 3/4 (?) inch. Also required the Big Ton/Metric Ton package and was only a long bed option. My 91 owners manual indicates both 2x4 and 4x4 could have the Big Ton package, but not available on the short bed.

Thanks fellows. Used a very small screwdriver as a pick and got a pin out on my extra connector. That extra connector will also help me make sure I put the rest of the wires back exactly where they should go.

So how close to the rear axel is each tank. I read the above as saying the 18 gallon tank rear end is closer to the rear axel than the 23.5 gal. tank. So the extra capacity of the 23 gal tank is all closer to the front of the truck? Do I have that right?