BLHTAZ

Braces for what...?? :hmm:

The CAD is no good. Either shim it or replace the right side shaft with a one piece. There are conversion kits made for the D30, but you will spend easily over $1000 to do it. Just do a selectable locker as you are talking about and you will be good :thumbsup:

The sender for hte guage is on the left rear corner of the head...

Welcome back... :cheers: :yes: Do you feel that you did well?

I finally have them all sorted and organized, so now I am about to head out to take them to the printer. I just got an email from the printer with the final version of the art work, so I threw it on a mock-up of a couple shirts to show you... :cheers: Image Not Found Image Not Found

You should try taking it here... http://www.heartattackgrill.com/photos.htmlDon't know if the wife would approve though ;) :cheers:

No...it wouldn't surprise me if they had $10,000 - $15,000 in it, but the fact remains that it is not "worth" that regardless of what is in it. We have put over $35,000 in out YJ over the years, but I know we would be lucky to get $10,000 for it. My MJ has about $4300 invested so far and needs about another $3000 to get where I want to get with it. :cheers:

They are interchangeable, but the TJ springs are a little lower spring rate so they will not give as much lift on an MJ as they do the TJ. From what I have seen on here in other threads, the TJ coils typically give about 1.5" less lift on an MJ than they are rated to give a TJ.

I don't understand what you are having to take apart to bleed the clutch :hmm: . Mine was easy to bleed without even lifting the truck off the ground. Mine did feel a bit "loose" to start with, but it did work and after I put 40 - 50 miles on it, it got stronger. The tech at the dealership that helped me with it said that was normal and that sometimes there is just a little bit of air in the system that makes it feel soft, but as long as it engages...things work themselves out...and it did on mine. ;) No...the brake & clutch are two different reservoirs.

:rotf: Great translation... I am not real sure on the 207 to 231 swap, but it seems that you would just need to get the cable drive adapter from a 231 that is cable drive and use that. If your 231 is not a cable driven setup, you must have found one from a newer Jeep...my '88 is a cable drive 231. If you have fluid leaking from the mating surface of the tranny & t-case, that means that the rear tranny seal or the front t-case seal are bad...maybe both. It would just be smart to get both and replace them since you have to take them apart anyway. :thumbsup:

Coil spacers on top of 4" springs... :shake: No control arms... :shake: Bolt on SOA is questionable...liked by some...dreaded by others. They do use a good coil spring from OME, but over all it falls in the category of "you get what you pay for" ;) . By the time you add the control arms & shocks that you will need, the price is still going to be $800 - $900.

Glad you got it fixed...despite my effortts to confuse you... ;) :thumbsup:

That is sweet, but you know that they are going to want way more than it's really worth. I wouldn't be surprised if they try to get $8000 or more for it.

I was going to post that too. I joined that site when I bought my Scorpion...

Not sure this statement makes sense. :hmm: He has a 2000 XJ which does have an open cooling system. There is no need to fill it through the radiator hose. Just fill it from the top of the radiator. Willy You're right... It makes absolutely no sense... :oops: :shake: :wall: I was reading 2000, but for some reason it was registering as 1990... Too many shirts... uhhh... I mean things on my mind right now ;) :yes:

If you can still find the old part numbers... P5153825 & P5153526 ... you can probably still get them at the prices you are seeing and they should still come complete with the brakes on them. I know a lot of places were selling the old part numbers for around $1400 for the rear & $1600 for the front +/-. And yes...the JK D44 is still a DANA axle :thumbsup:

Where is "here". You don't have your location in your profile yet ;) :idea:

Welcome Terry... :cheers: Looks like you did well for $150 :thumbsup: You should start a project thread in the "Projects Forum" so you can keep updating it as you move along with the changes.

Here is how to put pictures on here... viewtopic.php?f=6&t=11077 It has chnaged a little bit and i need to update this instruction post, but it will get you going. As for the truck...if it is in good shape as you say, then yes, it's definitely worth the money :thumbsup:

Mine took about 3 tries. We got it going, then it got weak again...we bled it some more. I drove it for a few miles and it got weak again...we bled it some more. Finally it stayed pressurized and has been working for 8 months now without issue.

You can't...that's what he's telling you ;) . If you believe you have timing problem, then it's likely that the chain tensioner is bad and you need to replace that. The 4 cyl has a tensioner unlike the 4.0L 6 cyl. Was there an external slave offered in '86...? Seems it would be an internal and therefore is going to be a ral PITA to get bled out. The internals require A LOT of bleeding...and when you fell that you have bled it A LOT...do it some more. :cheers:

I still have the part numbers for them... Front - P5155252 will run in the $2500 - $2700 range, but appears to be on national backorder right now. Rear - P5153826AB will run in the $1600 - $1800 range and there are 23 of them currently in the national warehouse. They no longer come complete with brakes as they originally did. They still have not cut off my access to the Chrysler website ;)

...or checked the fluid in the t-case. I had one go dry on me, but never saw any sign of leaking... :dunno: . I didn't catch it in time and grenaded the case though :wall: .

His is an '89...it has no computer that stores codes or that can be reset ;) . The Renix ECU is a fresh boot on every start-up.

:yes: I have heard of the black pepper trick, but never tried it.