BLHTAZ

If you are asking about spacers...absolutely not. I am 100% against the use of spacers. I see them as unsafe no matter who makes them and how, but that is my personal opinion. Others on here will tell you that if you spend enough money...they are fine :shake: . You can by a good set of wheels for the price of some of hte spacers out there.

Being able to tell what coil it is by simply looking at it is going to pretty much impossible. If you can take the wheel off and get a picture of the complete spring we can tell you if it has a spacer in it or not. A spacer is typically a 2" - 3" thick either rubber or poly piece that is on top of the spring. If there is not one there, you could do that to level it, but it would be better to get some taller lift springs to do the job once you figure out what you have. It sounds like you may need to go to a 6 - 6.5" spring if what you have learned is correct.

Does the Hut still pay the entire $2 to the driver? For dine in, I tip the same 20% on average if I get what I want with no issues or delays.

I was able to find replacement studs through an aftermarket supplier/store called Bumper to Bumper. They are Dorman part# 610-364. Anyone that carries Dorman stuff should be able to get them for you. You can always replace the hub assembly, but that is going to be expensive just to replace studs if you don't need new bearings.

This is actually a shot from the real town of Hell in Michigan I believe, but it works here for now... :yes:

As long as I get the right food and in the time that they said it would be there, I typically tip 20%. I worked for Pizza Hut for almost 12 years and was a GM for about 5 of that. At the time, we charged .75 delivery charge and the driver got all of that. It seemed that when we started the delivery charge, the tips went down so it all balanced instead of being a help to the drivers... :shake:

OK...after reading over this a couple times now...I too am confused as to how it had a 23 spline 207. Obviously we don't know what the tranny & t-case came out of, but I thought it should be 21 spline as well... :huh???:

It's not the amount of lift that is causing the need for spacers...it's the tire size & back spacing. If you get a wheel with 3.75" or 4" BS, you will be OK...but, the 5" BS is going to pull them way in and you will rub the LCA's.

Glad to hear that it's running again :thumbsup: The only thing I can see that I would have done in addtition is to get those Ford plugs out of it. I am honestly surprised that it is "running good" on Autolites as out trucks usually don't run well on anything but Champion or Bosch.

There is no reason that the one I did would not work...it's just a reduced piture, but I'm glad you got it figured out anyway. :thumbsup:

You need to reduce it to the proper size to fit in that spot. I think it is limited to about 80 - 100 pixels wide for an avatar. EDIT: Here...try this. Save it to your file and then try to load it. Image Not Found

Carmine...I have no help for you as far as technical data on spring rate, but I can't resist saying that I can't believe yo uare still dealing with that Rusty's crap after all you have been through :eek: Check with Adam at Motion Offraod or Tom at Hell Creek Suspensions... :idea: Personally...I am real happy with my RE coils :thumbsup:

Yeah...I was ASSuming that they did a "real" restore on it with that estimate ;) :cheers:

That should be OK up to 37" & moderate wheeling. If you are going to do anything near extreme stuff I would not go past a 35" without at least uprading the shafts.

I have heard that they are OK, but they don't make anything big enough or aggressive enough for me. I like Swamper type tires...even for my DD vehicles. All they show on that site is strreet tires. :cheers:

When you say "washed out the engine a few times"...what exactly do you mean by that? How did you "wash" it out?? From you description, it could be several things. Are all the breather lines in place and in good shape? Where is the oil coming from that is leaking? Has anything else happened such as an overheat or high rev that could warp the head and blow the head gasket? Can you take any pictures of the engine and trouble areas to show us? Just some things to start with to try and narrow it down.

I use this shot as my wallpaper on my laptop. I took this shot of Tina (wife) climbing a rock at an offroad park called Hard Rock just north of Ocala, FL.

If by 5", you mean 5" back spacing, then you will could need spacers, but you may be able to adjust the steering stops enough to get by.

Gotcha... :thumbsup: Unfortunately, this is not a subject that I have any experience with so I will back out and wait for someone that can help you ;)

If you are going with a lift of around 3", then you can get away with just lowers. If you want to go as big as the lift that you started this post about, you definitely need both. As Pete said though, the best thing to do id find a kit that is complete so that it all works together. I bought the RE 3.5" (XJ) super ride kit. It came with LCA's and I added the UCA's from them to it...even though my MJ will never be used off road ;) . I also bought the 3" reaf leaf springs from Hell Creek Suspensions to complete the package as the RE kit came with an AAL. :thumbsup:

It will have one t-stat housing, but that is for the ECM. It still has the one at the back of the head for the guage/light.

Why would you do that instead of just getting control arms?

Those kind of people scare the hell out of me :shake: Please stay away from them as they are idiots and they are leading you in the wrong direction. You need both upper and lower control arms to do that much lift...and anything more than 3" neesd at least LCA's, but I prefer to do both always. You are getting great advice here from those of us that have experienced what you are going through, but you seem to be trying to circumvent it all the time with trying to get cheap crap... :dunno:

I put that one in our YJ about 2 years ago. Nice kit... :thumbsup:

Here is a write up on doing the one piece conversion... http://www.stu-offroad.com/axle/yjd30co ... vert-1.htm It does require disassembly of the axle including taking the differential out. That write up gives part numbers for the new seals that you will need as well as the block off plate for the CAD hole. I am pretty sure that Randy's Ring & Pinion sells a conversion kit as well with the seals & block off plate...you provide the axle shaft.