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Everything posted by BLHTAZ
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Two things come to mind right off for me... -I had a similar problem with mine when I first bought it and it turned out to be a broken valve spring. You may want to pull the valve cover and just have a look. -The ECU's VERY rarely ever go bad in these trucks, but when they do it's typically in the injector circuit and it effects the #4 injector. Try unplugging the injectors one by one while it's running and see if you find one that does NOT make or make little difference in the idle. I know you said you had the injectors cleaned professionally, but were they flow tested as well when cleaned to be sure that they are actually operating properly?
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I have never heard of a "slave kit" :dunno: I would not risk it...especially with the internal slave that requires removal of the tranny to get to. Buy the slave through a dealership, not an aftermarket source. I tried the afternarket thing...and like many others, I was very disappointed to find that I had to buy another from the dealer to get a good one.
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I have never heard of a "slave kit" :dunno: I would not risk it...especially with the internal slave that requires removal of the tranny to get to. Buy the slave through a dealership, not an aftermarket source. I tried the afternarket thing...and like many others, I was very disappointed to find that I had to buy another from the dealer to get a good one.
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Here is a snip of some NP242 info that I have found in a Google search... It was easier than try to explain it myself ;) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The Select Trac option on the Jeep Cherokee gets you the New Process NP 242 transfer case. This transfer case gives the following operating modes: 2wd, 4wd with the center differential open, 4wd with the center differential locked, neutral, and 4wd low range (center differential locked) The addition of a center differential is the main difference between the NP 242 and the NP 231 or Command Trac transfer case. Without a differential, the 231 transfer case offers only part time four wheel drive mode. The NP 242 transfer case Full time mode opens the center differential allowing the front and rear axles to rotate at different speeds while still being linked by the transfer case. The end with the least traction will get the most torque. While this mode may have some disadvantages off road where a wheel may loose contact with the ground, it has the advantage of being usable on all paved surfaces. Part Time mode - with the center differential locks can only be used on loose or slick surfaces with out possible damage to the transfer case. The NP 242 transfer case can be switched between 2wd and either 4wd mode at any speed simply by moving the lever. The switch to low range must be made at very low speed - the Jeep manual says 3 mph. One common operating problem with the 242 transfer case is that it will stick in 4wd even if the lever is moved to 2wd. Internally, moving the lever loads a spring which then applies force to move the selector fork. If the gears are loaded with torque, the spring will not have enough energy to move the sleeve off the gears. Once torque is removed from the gears, the spring will then move the fork and slide the sleeve of the gears. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Here is a snip of some NP242 info that I have found in a Google search... It was easier than try to explain it myself ;) ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The Select Trac option on the Jeep Cherokee gets you the New Process NP 242 transfer case. This transfer case gives the following operating modes: 2wd, 4wd with the center differential open, 4wd with the center differential locked, neutral, and 4wd low range (center differential locked) The addition of a center differential is the main difference between the NP 242 and the NP 231 or Command Trac transfer case. Without a differential, the 231 transfer case offers only part time four wheel drive mode. The NP 242 transfer case Full time mode opens the center differential allowing the front and rear axles to rotate at different speeds while still being linked by the transfer case. The end with the least traction will get the most torque. While this mode may have some disadvantages off road where a wheel may loose contact with the ground, it has the advantage of being usable on all paved surfaces. Part Time mode - with the center differential locks can only be used on loose or slick surfaces with out possible damage to the transfer case. The NP 242 transfer case can be switched between 2wd and either 4wd mode at any speed simply by moving the lever. The switch to low range must be made at very low speed - the Jeep manual says 3 mph. One common operating problem with the 242 transfer case is that it will stick in 4wd even if the lever is moved to 2wd. Internally, moving the lever loads a spring which then applies force to move the selector fork. If the gears are loaded with torque, the spring will not have enough energy to move the sleeve off the gears. Once torque is removed from the gears, the spring will then move the fork and slide the sleeve of the gears. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Well, mine is the wild thing as well, and please share the secret for keeping the chain tight :bowdown: That's what I have too. I keep buying new chains...even the expensive ones thinking that it was the chain stretching because I didn't buy a good one, but they still will not stay tight for more than 5-6 cuts... :shake:
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Well, mine is the wild thing as well, and please share the secret for keeping the chain tight :bowdown: That's what I have too. I keep buying new chains...even the expensive ones thinking that it was the chain stretching because I didn't buy a good one, but they still will not stay tight for more than 5-6 cuts... :shake:
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Yes, we will do it again probably in a couple months when everyone has had time to recover from Christmas :cheers: Pete & I have discussed new hats for he next time around as well so I am working on that too :clapping:
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Yes, we will do it again probably in a couple months when everyone has had time to recover from Christmas :cheers: Pete & I have discussed new hats for he next time around as well so I am working on that too :clapping:
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I'd go for that. Those are nice saws from what I have seen :thumbsup:
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I'd go for that. Those are nice saws from what I have seen :thumbsup:
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The 5 speed...
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The 5 speed...
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I'm not sure. :dunno: I know the whole axle is $150-160 drum to drum. If it was halfoff day, I would of grabbed it. :D And for a moment, pretend I don't know anything, and tell me which side is the short side. :dunce: :cheers: The same side where the pumpkin is.. It's a rear so the diff is in the center ;) . I believe that the short side is the right side though as there is a slight offset on the inside of the diff..
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:thumbsup: Very cool... Interesting pose in the last two shots :hmm:
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I have a Poulan, and while it was "economical", is dependable and runs well...it is really hard to keep the chain tight on. I have to stop and tighten the chain about every 10 minutes or it flies off :fs1: :shake:
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RE is what I have on mine and is one of the best kits on the market. I have had their stuff on both of our Jeeps. Motion Offroad and Hell Creek Suspensions both make great kits for our trucks too :thumbsup:
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You better hope that it gives out when you are not in traffic. If it stops working all together while you are in motion...the results could be quite messy :eek: :smart:
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Once we get them back from the printer, it will take us a couple days to get them sorted, packed and shipped. Right now we are hoping to have them all shipped by the 22nd or 23rd. Worst case should be having them shipped by the 30th. They should all be to their destinations by sometime in the first week of January.
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Go to my post here... viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12734 It is an electrical manual. Scroll to page 15 and it will show you a detailed diagram of the coil/ignition module wiring including the tach output.
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Doing gear changes is something that should be left to and experienced tech. It requires very precise knowledge and some very expensive tools. Either pay up nad have it done or find some axles to swap as suggested :cheers:
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You have to set the time to read correctly for you in your profile under board preferences ;) I am posting this at 1:36 PM EST ... your post prior to mine was at 12:34 PM EST :thumbsup: Let us know what you find with the fluid.
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Exactly what I was thinking :cheers: Some Portabella mushrooms would be good too... I gotta go make breakfast... :drool:
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You post a question at nearly midnight and then wonder why no responses at nearly 3:00AM... :rotf: The clutch is hydraulic. Open the master cylinder and see if there is fluid in there. If not, fill it up with brake fluid, put the cap back on and pump the pedal a few times and hopefully it will come back to life. If it does, then you need to find out where you are losing the fluid from. I had the same issue and had to replace the slave cylinder. I ran it that way for a few months just keeping a bottle of fluid in the truck at all times and had to teach the wife how to do it too in caase she was out alone and it happended ;)
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Mine didn't have a cat on it when I got it. I just run with a Flowmaster 40 Series muffler, single in - dual out...no problems :thumbsup:
