BLHTAZ

If the filter has not been changed or you have reason to believe that it's clogged, then replace it first. After you replace that, do a fuel pressure test to determine if the problem is a failing fuel pump. If you have the ballast resistor, you could also bypass it and see if that makes any difference and may possibly be a bad resistor. If you feel that replacement injectors are in order (and they probably are regardless of the real issue), then you can get a good set here... http://www.precisionautoinjectors.com/p ... roductId=7 If you get these injectors, be sure to use ' JEEP ' as the discount code when you check out and get 10% off :thumbsup:

I don't know that area, but if you continue about 2 hours west, you will be in/near Gardendale, AL and some nice wheelin' at Gray Rock ORV :yes: :driving:

??? Site rules... --> viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1239 ;) :thumbsup:

VERY NICE!!!! :clapping:

Never been there...but, I have heard that about Arrigo before... :shake: I live 20 minutes from The Mouse House too, but I have never been there either... :rotf:

4.0L 242cid L6 MFI (M) - This one would be the engine you have in an '87. I don't know what those other choices are as I have never seen any designations like that before... :dunno:

I think the addition of the main leaf will help some, but not sure it will cure the problem. I would try that first and if it is not hte fix, be sure that you have used the long style anti-wrap spring perches. I used the RE anti-wrap perches when I did the SOA on our YJ and have had no issues with it. I think this one is the best design of the three you posted. As stated...a lot of work that the average guy is not going to have tools to do, but it's a nice set-up.

Have you check to be sure there is power to the bulbs for them? If so...have you checked to be sure the bulbs work by switching them with another bulb in a working position?

You keep saying this, but what you have to realize is, if the "delete" button was used to remove the ad, it is gone and can not be recovered. You will have to post it again yourself unfortunately. If the mods here use a hidden forum to move stuff like this too, as we do on the site that I admin, then it could simply be "moved" back in to place, but I get the feeling that it was deleted and is gone.

Nice... :D :cheers: Congrats Joe!! Wish I had a similar story to tell...but not so far... :dunno:

HMMM...it appears the the sheet I was looking at is missing the ' / ' between the 1 & 4 ... :nuts: so I though it was 14mm. I thought that sounded a little weird, but it was right there in front of me. ;)

It is possible that the IAC is bad, but it's also very likely that you just need to clean it and the throttle body too. Try a good cleaning first. You don't have an "ECM". It is an "ECU" and there is no way to "reset" it as it resets itself every time you shut the truck off. An ECU is simply an Electronic Control Unit that operates on a fresh boot every time it's started and controls the truck off of preset perameters that cannot be "reset". It does not store codes or faults that can be cleared :smart: :cheers:

I understand the budget thing very well, but there are some things (ball joints being one) that you cannot take a chance on with something "cheap". If a ball joint breaks...it could kill someone. Search for hte best price, but stick with either parts from the dealership or MOOG in my opinion. :cheers:

Here has been scarce since he went to working a job instead of running the Pizza joint... :dunno: . Maybe he is still trying to juggle both...

I think 32's would be a perfect fit... :thumbsup:

That's what friends are for Rich... Friends don't let friends use FRAM... :rotf:

Very nice!! :D Definitely need an alignment. You will be surprised at how fast you will destroy tires with only minor alignment issues. I completely destroyed a pair of 35" Xterrains in two months because the caster was off by 2 degrees on our YJ...and it only gets about 600 - 700 miles a month if that.

Nice work on the cooling system mods Rich :cheers: Yes...you are risking the life of your engine using FRAM :eek: . They have issue with internal collapse and shutting off oil flow and destroying engines that has been documented on many websites including this one.

Hancook is supposed to be a good tire. I have never used them, but I have a couple friends that have and been happy with them.

Could be a problem with the CPS. If you are gettng a backfire, that means the fuel is pumping through, but is not getting fire to burn it soon enough and when it does...boom...it goes all at once. It could be the CPS is dying and is slow to send its signal, could be trouble with cap, rotor, wires or plugs too. Possibly even the coil, but it really sounds to me like it's a fire problem...not fuel here.

All of the electrical part of the ignition is on the switch which is down lower on the steering column under the dash. If you want things like the radio and dash lights to work, you will have to be able to turn the lock cylinder to move the manaul part of the switch to the "ON" position or find another way to be able to move it without the lock cylinder. As for starting it...I guess you could just find a constant hot wire and run that to your manual start switch and then to your starter wire so you could start it without needing the ignition switch activated. Just for the record...I recommend fixing it properly (even though it's a play toy) rather than going through all of this hassle as it seems it would be easier to fix rather than try to go around the issue. :thumbsup:

#7 is the part he is looking for in this picture. I was not able to find any availability on it in some searching that I did though... :dunno:

I am not an electrial wiz by any stretch of the imagination, but from what I remember of the start switch thing, you need to havea a say to turn the ignition to put the "ignition switch" in the "on" position. Because the ignition switch is manually activated by a rod that comes down from the ignition lock cylinder, you will still need to be able to turn the cyliner. After you turn the cylinder, you need to find the wire that becomes hot when you turn it to the "start" position and your switch will need to go in series from an "ignition on" hot wire to the starter wire. OK...I gave it a shot...let's see if anyone agrees with me. I know I didn't explain it perfectly, but it works in my head ;) . As for making switches for all that other stuff...I wouldn't mess with it :shake: . These trucks have enough electrical nightmares of their own without chopping things up like that and asking for more :cheers: .

Welcome to the Club... :cheers: You should be bald or gray real soon...4 GIRLS... :wall: ;)

The Chrysler part # is 83100066 Should retail for about $110 - $115