BLHTAZ

Yeah...sounds to me like you are running on the boarder line of pressure. As stated before...it is possible that the switch is having issues and is grounding out when it shouldn't be. If you continue to have trouble, try changing it if you wish as it is not and expensive thing so it wouldn't be a big waste. I personally think you have a bearing and/or oil pump job in your not to distant future.

I have heard that this helps with headlight issues from a couple other people too.

Yes...if there is no pedal pressure, it is likely a hydraulic problem with either the master or slave.

14 psi at idle does not tell me that it's OK. What was it at 2000 RPM? Mine would sit at 12-14 at idle, but not come up past 20-25 at 2000 RPM with the engine warm. You need to make sure that the engine is at full operating temperature when you do pressure testing.

Yep...didn't think of that. I have seen the FRAM filters cause low oil pressure problems many times.

Good advice so far...and yes...stay away from Rusty's... :ack: A good general rule...if you find a lift in the range that you are wanting and it's less than $700 - $800, it's probably not worth it. Remember...you get what you pay for :idea:

What do you mean by "look up a license plate" ?? Are you trying to check out someone elses plate or look up a custom tag that you might want?

Congrats!!! :clapping: Welcome to the wonderful world of MJ... :cheers:

I am starting to believe that they sent you the wrong stuff. If the uppers are adjusted all the way in and the lowers are out and you still have that much angle...it can't be the right parts for your truck.

From your description, I would agree with you and believe that it's the timing. The 2.5L engine has a tensioner on the chain (unlike the 4.0L), which may be the problem, but if you are going to open it with that many miles on it you might as well repalce it all.

Definitely get a check the actual pressure. Mine had oil pressure issues and was barely able to hold 25 psi at 2000 RPM. Mine ended up being worn rod & main bearings on the crank shaft so I also repalced the oil pump at the same time when doing the bearings. While it could be just a switch going bad...my fear for you is that it's not that simple as the switches in these things rarely ever go bad. The guage senders go bad much more often on vehicles with guage clusters. I would definitley make the switch to the guage cluster. It's not a hard thing to do and it enables you to see problems coming instead of waiting until the idiot light comes on and the issues is already bad.

Ahhhh...OK. I obviously have never done anything with shackles and I couldn't remember for sure which way it went, but I really thought it was lift so my apologies for doing what i don't normally do and offering unconfirmed info.

Have you done any research on what lift you are going with? If not, be sure to look through the other project threads here for some help in making that decision. Motion Offroad, Hell Creek Suspension and Rubicon Express all make some nice stuff just to name a few.

Adding leaves frm another Comanche pack will do nothing for lifting other than the thickness of the leaf. XJ shackles will give about a 1" or 1.5" lift if I recall what I read on here in other threads.

Dark Blue... :cheers:

Sorry to hear of the circumstances, but glad you are here. Welcome to he Club :cheers:

Very nice... :thumbsup: Welcome to the Club :cheers: You should start a thread in the Project forums and keep us posted on what you are doing with it.

It's possible as the 24lb injectors should not be in a stock HO engine. The 24's were only used in the later model HO's...or for strokers. My '95 HO uses the same injector as my '88 Renix.

In those pictures...the upper arms need to be shortened considerably, and probably the lowers need to be extended a little, to bring that pinion back down where it is supposed to be. The pinion should not be pointing up at the t-case like that...it should be as close to the stock postion as possible with only minor adjsutment for alignment purposes.

Exactly...mine is a base model and it has speakers...

Really... :dunno: I didn't notice that... :nuts: ;)

Yeah...you'll be fine with the 3.55's for 30's :thumbsup: Yes...if you get larger tires, then you need to go to the lower gear ratio. If he were to go with 33" tires instead of the 30's then he would want to have 4.10 gears instead of the 3.55's :cheers:

Yes...there will be a noticeable difference with that change. That is a 16% change from 3.55 to 4.10 and anything more than a 10% change is going to make a difference. A gear ration change of less than 10% is worthless, but depending on tire size, a ratio change of 16% may be overkill. If you are running 31's or 33's, you will be OK...anything smaller and 4.10's are just going to have the RPM's way to high.

Sounds like you are describing a desire for something like the ProComp Extreme All Terrain. It's a nice tire that is a little more aggressive than a regular AT, but not as much as a MT.

Glad you made it safe. Enjoy the snow :cheers: