BLHTAZ

Sounds like server issues. I had trouble getting on a little while ago too. Must have been resetting or had a glitch.

That is the correct URL...it just needs the IMG tags without the "quotes" around it. Will give you this...

There is a threaded adjuster sleeve on the drag link going to the pitman arm...just turn it until you get the steering wheel straight again :thumbsup:

When you mouse over the pic you will see a little drop down box of different codes below the pic. Slide down to the bottom one (the IMG code), copy it and them paste it in to your post...that's it :cheers:

Glad to hear you are back in shape :clapping: . Electrical trouble is a terrible thing...especially to folks like me that just don't get it when it comes to how electricity works. :wall:

Very nice!! You did well :thumbsup:

I worked in a Jeep dealership as well in the parts department (until I got laid off in November). I tried to explain to them that death wobble is NOT caused, nor cured, by a steering stabilizer. A heavy duty one may hide the effects, but it is not the problem. A vehicle that is operating properly can be driven without a stabilizer on it with no ill effects other than the steering "feeling" a little loose possibly. The wheel & tire balance is probalby the most common cause of death wobble. The vibrations from the improper balance causes damage to the track bar, ball joints, control arms etc, etc... so it may take a good balance and repalcement of parts that have been damaged from it to cure it.

What is your set up? Engine, transmission, t-case?? Check you fluids in tranny, t-case & axles. Check the ujoints out in the driveshafts too. If you have a 5 speed...does the noise stop or change when you push the clutch?

I put in the new stereo that I got from Boilermaker :cheers: I didn't know that the old speakers in this truck could still put out the sound that they do :eek: I cranked this thing up and it was amazing that four 20 year old speakers can still pump out a decent sound and vibrate the mirrors :clapping: I didn't have it cranked up here, but this is it performing...

Nothing wrong with that where I come from. Keeps it from being a "classifieds" transaction in the wrong forum :cheers:

The cheap kits running in the $450 - $550 range will lift your truck, but they are not going to be worth the money in the long run. To lift your truck properly with quality parts, you are going to spend at least $700 - $1000. I did mine with the 3.5" Rubicon Express Super Ride kit, added the upper control arms and used the 3" Hell Creek leaf springs. Rides great, looks good and sits level. Out of the two kits asked about in the original post, I would choose the RC, but I would also add the upper control arms, adjustable track bar, leaf springs and get some good shocks as I am sure the ones they include are some cheap hydraulics and I would never run anything but gas shocks...especially on a lifted vehicle.

The rear axle will have seals only at the outer ends. Like Joe said...the fluid lubricates the wheel bearings back there so it must be allowed to travel out to the ends of the tubes.

Welcome to the Club :cheers: What kind of lift did you install? How much lift did you install? Did you use a reaplcement track bar? Did you replace the control arms? Did you install new wheels & tires? When you say "death wobble", do you mean that when you hit a bump it goes so crazy that you have to stop the truck to keep control or is it just a bad vibration and you can keep driving? Answers to these will be a big help in trying to help you find the problem. Death wobble is a real PITA to figure out even with plenty of info. The running issue is possibly the ignition switch going bad.

Agreed...I Admin on one site and I am, or have been, a mod on a few other sites. This is a problem on all of them and is dealt with the same as here. :cheers:

Windows does have a remote access feature built in that you could set up to be able to transfer items, but I have never tried it myself so I don't know for sure how it works. I would likely do as suggested and use a remote CD/DVD USB drive, a large capacity SD card or USB Flash Drive to copy & transfer.

Sounds like a problem to me. I bought some replacement belts on eBay from Car Parts Wholesalers and they lock up as they should.

You will not "need" to change the gears, but depending on what you do with it, you may want to. I have 31" Swampers on mine with 3.07 gears and while it is a bit sluggish to say the least, it is a street truck only so I have not worried with it. It is slow on take off and only gets about 15-16 MPG on average. For what you describe the use of the truck to be...you should be fine with what you have.

WOW!!! :eek: You could buy 4 of them down here for that price... :nuts: :shake:

4.27 may be a gear, but it's not an available option for our trucks. I agree on the tranny difference too... 4.10 for 5 spd & 4.56 for auto with a 4.0L engine. Didn't think about that option ;)

Don't know where you got that, but it's absolutely not true. The only way you red line a lot with 4.10 gears & 33's is if you run with your foot on the floor constantly. Here is a chart to give you an idea... Sorry it's not perfectly clear, but you can read it ;) 3.73 will allow you to wind out further if you are racing, but they will suck you acceleration power away and your MPG.

You could do it, but it's going to lack power and fuel economy will not be optimum. BTW...you posted this same topic 4 times. You should go delete the other three before someone starts replying in them too. ;)

With 33's and a 4.0L engine...I would run 4.10 With 33's and a 2.5L engine...I would run 4.56

Fluid leaking inside that will effect the fuse panel will not be plainly obvious when simply looking under the dash or changing as fuse. You will need to dig a little...remove the floor covering that wraps all the way up there and look good. It's more likely a slave issue, but it's still a good idea to be sure the master is not leaking inside.

Look close... :rotf: :rotfl2: :jump:

Yea...the left (driver) side is the easy one to change...even though you still have to take out the diff.. The right side is a bit more challenging. Looks like you have it handled now :thumbsup: