BLHTAZ

I did a couple quick searches on Rock Auto NAPA & AutoZone, but found nothing there. The Chrysler part# is 83502375 ... but ... that thing is $250 through a dealership :eek: so you will probably want to do what you have to in making sure that it is your problem. Please be advised that I am making ASSumptions here (based on your picture) that you have a 2.5L engine and it is older than 1989

I didn't use their complete lift, but I have the 3" leaf springs from them and they are great. I can only imagine that they would produce a quality complete kit based on my experience with Tom and his products do far :thumbsup: Tom is a member here so shoot him a PM and he "may" give you a CC deal ;) . His user name is ' HellCreek '...

Welcome to the Club... :cheers: The overheating sounds like a flow problem if it isverheating that quickly. Makes me believe that the radiator or other major component is clogged and there is no coolant flow. There are a couple common causes of the no-start issue, but I don't think it is realted to the overheating...anything is poosible though. The main two things that will cause a no-start are fuel & fire. Start with the basics as see if you have fire at the plugs. If not...you likely have a failed CPS. Check the fuel pressure. If there is trouble there, you will need to determine if it is the pump or the ballast resistor as they are the two most common problems with the fuel system.

It's called an ISA Motor (Idle Speed Actuator). Below is the procedure from the FSM to make sure that it is properly adjusted...and yes, it could be the cause of your problem. IDLE SPEED ACTUATOR (ISA) MOTOR 1) Adjust ISA motor plunger to establish initial position of plunger only if motor has been removed or replaced. Remove air filter elbow and start engine. Run engine until engine reaches normal operating temperature. Turn A/C off (if equipped). 2) Connect tachometer leads to diagnostic connector D1, attaching negative lead to terminal D1-3 and positive lead to terminal D1-1. See Fig. 4. Turn ignition off. ISA motor plunger should move to fully extended position. 3) When ISA motor plunger is fully extended, disconnect ISA motor wiring connector and start engine. Engine speed should be 3300-3700 RPM. If incorrect, turn hex head screw at end of plunger to provide engine speed of 3500 RPM. 4) Fully retract ISA motor by holding closed throttle (idle) switch plunger inward as throttle is opened. Closed throttle switch plunger should not touch throttle lever in closed position. If contact is made, check linkage and/or cable for binding or damage. Repair as necessary. 5) Connect ISA motor wiring harness connector and turn ignition off for 10 seconds. ISA motor should move to fully extended position. Start engine. Engine speed should be 3500 RPM for short period of time and then decrease to normal idle speed. 6) Turn ignition off. Disconnect tachometer. After final adjustment of ISA motor, use thread penetrating sealant (Loctite 290) on adjustment screw to prevent movement and maintain adjustment. NOTE: If adjustment screw must be moved after thread sealant hardens, loosen threads by heating screw with flameless heat such as soldering gun. DO NOT use flame or torch type of heat as damage to ISA motor will result.

Got it...thanks :thumbsup:

OH...BTW... Welcome to the Club... :cheers: ;) I actually like getting the raw steel stuff and just painting it. The powder coat can be nice, but if I paint it and it gets scratched up...it's easy to fix.

I'm sure that was a lot of work, but it's really cool 8) :yes:

Glad you brought this up. My inbox & sent box where both 100% full so if anyone reading this has tried sending me a PM today, I didn't get it...try again :oops:

Looks good. How long has he been doing it?

I have never seen the Tomken or the RockRatz bumpers before now. The JCR bumper is brand new to the market and was designed using a truck from one of our club members here ;) The only thing I can go on here is looks...and based on that, I prefer the JCR bumper personally. :thumbsup:

You will need 6.5" for the front to match the SOA using those leaf springs.

Congrats man :clapping: Glad to see someone is making prgress in these tough times :yes:

I think this should make it easier than trying to explain it in words on here... :cheers:

Unless you loosen the column to drop it down a little, you will have to do as JT said and use a little "persuasion" and hope that you don't end up with it in multiple pieces. I don't have the column shift, but I have had mine out about 7-8 times now and I grit my teeth every time hoping that it doesn't break.

Looks genuine to me. Someone has definitely been messing with it though as the arm on the rear load sensing valve is completely out of place.

Welcome to the Club... :cheers: You will get to learn how to do a lot of things on your own with these trucks, but that a big part of the addiction / "Jeep Thing" ;) .

I changed mine over to 134, but you can not just put it in. As Sir Sam said...fix the leak first, then you have to do the conversion kit that usually runs about $20 so you have the correct connections for the 134 system to attach to. After that is done, you will need to have the system vacuumed and charged by someone with the proper equipment. Some cooling efficiency is lost going to 134, but a good AC guy can get it to work pretty good with a little tweeking of the amount of freon used. We actually had to reduce the amount of freon in mine to below the recommended level to get it to cool decently with 134... :cheers:

:agree: Poor quality & poor customer service. Run...run far away. Go find something from Motion Offraod, Hell Creek Suspensions, Rubicon Express etc, etc... ANYTHING but Rusty's...well, almost anything, but you get the idea ;) . Motion offroad & Hell Creek are both contributing members on this site as well :thumbsup:

WOW!!! Big Ben showed up, Willie showed up & the offensive line showed up :D . Now...if they can keep it together for two more games...

AHHH...gotcha. I have never had that problem with IE. Tried FireFox for a short time, but it was a total pain in the ...

Well...so far the Steelers are doing everything right and playing like I didn't think they could. We'll see if they can keep it going for the second half. :dunno:

:dunno: The link works fine for me... It is right there on the left side of the page with the link to the Yahoo group. I never go to the main page anyway...just bookmark the forum index... :thumbsup:

I am hoping for it, but they are going to have to play a lot better than they have the last 3-4 games to get past the Chargers. It appears that my pick of the Giants & Ravens being the Super Bowl is about to go down the drain with only about 3 minutes lieft in the game and the Giants are down by 12 points to the Eagles.

Way too many questions for not wanting to "steal" the thread. You really should start your own for stuff like this. My quick answer is... It's not worth the effort. The only way I would even try what you are thinking is to swap the block only from the '89 and keep the HO head, but that is just too much work. It would be easier to just fix the bearing issue in the '91 in my opinion. I think one of the mods or admin should split this part off in to it's own topic...

Can you use it...Yes. Should you sell all that stuff to finance a better set up...Definitely :cheers: