BLHTAZ

Yea...it can be done, but as stated, the XJ you are talking about is an HO model and it will require considerable work with the wiring to make it work in your truck. There are a lot of issues to deal with for the dash, fuel pump sensors, etc, etc... This is a good thread on here to read about the swap as JeepcoMJ has just been through all the issues... CLICK HERE

The XJ is a good donor for parts as everything about the MJ & XJ is the same from the doors forward. The D30 will hold up fine for 33's, but it would be recommended that you upgrade to the later model ('94 & up) axle shafts as the u-joints in our older trucks are smaller & weaker.

:clapping: :clapping: Sounds like cross of yankee redneck & cajun :yes:

WOW...how long has it been since you got those from me :yes: Wish I could offer some help in taking them apart, but I've never done it... :dunno: . Glad that they found a good home though :thumbsup:

That is a ground wire from what I understand. I guess the original lights had a feature where you could push them or move them to turn them on & off independently and it used that wire. The set up I used works fine with both doors and with the headlight switch too so I saw no need to use whatever it is.

:hmm: Who did...?? :dunno: . I don't see anything about that either... :dunno:

I posted the complete electrical manual in the DIY form if you want to copy it to your computer and use it to help you out. As far as the upgrade on the body strap...just get a short piece of battery cable, put some eyes on the ends and attach it in place of the braided sttrap that is there now if it is on bad shape. Mine is still in great shape and so far is not a problem so I have left it alone.

We don't intend to be discouraging...it's just opinions (as you asked for) :cheers: . You should ultimately do what is best for you and your truck :thumbsup: .

:clapping: :thumbsup:

Welcome to the Club... :cheers: While it can be done, and I have seen an XJ with the back cut off and the exhaust run up the back in that fashion that didn't look terrible...I have to aggree that it is not the best idea for this type of truck. If it is something that you really want, then by all means go for it and take pictures to share with us on how it is done :yes:

A complete list of tools needed will be hard to do unless someone has recently done it and can remember exactly what they used. AIR TOOLS are a must in my book. If you have air tools, but have never done a lift before...I would rate it at a 6 or 7. If you do not have air tools and have never done a lift before then you are looking at 9 or 10. Those ratings are based on "physical" difficulty, but the understanding of how to install the parts is not usually terribly difficult and I would rate about a 4. PB Blaster is a must have for this too :thumbsup:

This is what I have done with mine for now. The brakes are fine, but I will eventually get around to eliminating the valve as Eagle has done / suggested.

Welcome to the Club... :cheers: Yes...there is a lot of info here about doing the conversion. Look through the Project forums and you will find a ton of good info. Here is one thread going on recently about the 4WD swap... viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13375&hilit=4wd+conversion If you use the search feature and type in things like "4WD swap", "4WD conversion", "4 wheel drive" ... you will find a lot more. :thumbsup: As for the lift, you will need 4.5" - 5.5" to comfortably fit the wheel & tire set up that you are talking about.

Sorry, but that is wrong for the average situation... :doh: ;) . I have worked in several places that did alignments on lifted vehicles and have assisted in doing a few to try to learn a little more about it. The adjuster sleeve that is on the drag link is there for the purpose of adjusting the steering wheel as well as setting the proper length of the link. Adjusting it simply moves the pitman arm ever so slightly and in no way has any effect on the alignment. If the wheel is off by more than 180 degrees or more, then there is reason to use the other methods as the adjuster will likely not be able to do it...or, if it does, the turning radius is probably going to be adversely effected. :cheers:

Look in the DIY forum. There are at least a couple write-ups in there...including one that I did ;) EDIT: Sorry...mine is still in the Tech forum for some reason. CLICK HERE

If you are talking about downshifting from 5th to 4th...that is normal. It would likely happen even with 4.56's in there. 5th gear is not intended to have any power...but. I'm sure you knew that ;) . I had 33's with 4.56's and it was definitely overkill both on & off road.

When that happens, it's typically the CPS that has gone bad.

:thumbsup: :clapping:

The correct speedo gear for the 31's is near impossible to find. I ordered one with the correct tooth count for a later model Jeep and had to swap the shaft off of the gear in the MJ to the new gear. If your set up is what I believe, you should need a 26 or 27 tooth gear.

Yes, the X is a legitimate trim package that was available...just don't see many.

Just to be sure...here ya go... :cheers:

You're getting it...just need something a little bigger ;)

Me neither... :yes: Welcome back... :cheers:

No...that sleeve is made for adjusting the steering wheel. It will have not effect on the alignment :cheers: If you turn the one on the centerlink (going from wheel to wheel) you will change the toe setting and cause trouble with driveabililty.