BLHTAZ

Ouch...yea...I have seen them break (rarely), but it's always been further out to where you could still get at it with pliers and remove it. Usually happens to the Wrangler guys though. It sucks, but I think you are right about needing to replace the switch...

Here ya go... This is also found in the FSM that is posted in the DIY forum here... http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... =9&t=12517

I think you made a wise choice. You know you are still more than welcome to hang out here even without an MJ...right?? :cheers: :thumbsup: You'll have one before you know it anyway now that you have been here :clapping:

Not looking good right now. We have enough shirts ordered already, but so far their are only 4 hats ordered. If that doesn't change over the next 13 days, I will be refunding some money to a few folks for hats that they have already paid for. Maybe we'll have to try a hat order at another time on its own instead of doing it together with shirts. Never know though...we had a lot of last minute orders the last time we did shirts too.

Bad sockets. Mine did similar things when I first got it. I was able to find new socekts for it at AutoZone hanging on the wall in their section of bulbs / sockets / wires etc, etc... Sometimes you can have some luck cleaning them with electrical parts cleaner and a little scraping, but it's not likely to work...didn't on mine anyway.

Trail Master makes decent stuff, and the guys at Morris 4x4 Center are good people. I have met them several times at different events here in FL and they have invited my wife & I to participate with our T-Shirt business in shows that they have put on...BUT, as Pete said...that is a TJ kit you have linked to so hopefully you have a TJ that you are looking to lift :cheers:

WOW!!! :eek: :D You mean I actually got something right that is electrical related... :banana: . I am bound to learn a few things here I guess ;) :clapping:

I have never checked one, but it would seem normal for it to get hot to me :dunno: . You have a ceramic block with wires running through it and electricity traveling through constantly to the fuel pump so it's bound to get kinda warm. I'll have to check mine later to see if it is hot after driving.

It will work without it, but it's purpose was to reduce voltage going to the pump after startup to reduce noice and extend the life of the pump.

:eek: RUN...HIDE...put a heater in the dog house. That sucks man. :doh:

Did it break off in a way that needle nose pliers won't get at it? I am trying to imagine what broke off as that should be a steel shaft that runs all the way down in to the switch so it must have taken some force to break it. :hmm:

If you are talking about the stalk that you use to operate the signals...you simply push in on it just a little, turn it to the right (when facing it from outside the truck) and then slide it out of the column. There is nothing but a little tab on the end of it that holds it in place inside.

I would imagine that the $800 is for both. That would be a little high for one axle, but it's a great price to do both including parts :thumbsup: You are correct that it would be less expensive to find a donor vehicle and get the axles from it with the gears you want. You could probably find 4.10's without a lot of trouble, but finding 4.56 will be a bit tough to do...although not impossible.

AC Delco plugs are probably the recommended plug for that engine. I alos like the Bosch Platinums, but I have been told that they do not work well in the older engines. I have them in my 1995 HO 4.0L and in my 2002 4.7L Ram truck, but not in the MJ. "Idle", persé, is not adjustable, but I think the 2.5L has an adjustable IAC. If you are having idle issues you probably need to clean the throttle body & IAC. To get to that plug...you typically have to move the compressor. The 4.0L engine has the same issue, but I was able to get it using a wobble adapter and extension...but...it is a PITA and a lot of people say it's easier and faster to loosen & move the compressor.

:rotf: I have actually moved mine forward to be up under the light bar now. We have found that we are using the MJ a bit more than anticipated so we wanted to have some useable bed space. We intended this truck to just be a "pretty" show off thing that would get driven every now & then, but it is getting pretty much daily use right now :yes: Anyway...not to get it off track. Just wanted to add that so you make the right choice in where to mount it and don't loose space if you think you will need it.

"All things being equal"...they both have their advantages. The D44 will be a direct bolt in making it an easy job. The 8.8 should have the advanatage of disc brakes, but is going to require a fair amount of fab work to install. As far as strength...I don't think there is enough difference to make one better than the other.

Mine is from ProtoFab 4x4

Painted mine silver, but it works great :thumbsup:

Is that a new or used one? My son is wanting that same set up for his XJ, but all I have found is the center section so far.

Yup. :( It's one of the few things I would gladly leave in the hands of the pros. Absolkutely...gear jobs are NOT a DIY project.

It is workable, but I agree with lowering it a bit and DEFINITELY replacing the axles if you want to continue running tires that big. The D35 rears will break with 31" tires on them if you are too hard on the throttle, so even if he did "rebuild" it...that means nothing but he rebuilt a weak piece of junk that is going to break easily with those tires when any stress is put on them. I'm definitely not saying don't so it, but consider the amount of money you are going to need to spend to make it safe and dependable when making the deal. The 1992 MJ's are quite rare as there were only about 950 of them ever made :thumbsup:

:oops: :yes:

Thanks Joe...just wanted to be sure. I trust Don...but not myself on electrical stuff. :yes:

Right...but what I understood from Don is that the intermittent module just plugs in to the harness and then the switch to the module. Just a matter of unplugging the switch from the harness and inserting the module inline...along with the proper switch and stalk...obviously.

If that picture is what they are selling...it is not what you are wanting. I refuse to buy from Q-tec as I found them to be less than honest and willing to try to screw me out of almost $1200. For the last 8 years now I have warned people to stay away from them and I will never buy (or attempt to) from them again :shake: . Are you sure you even need a bracket? That track bar is definitely screwed from what I see in the pics.