BLHTAZ

If it's a significant knock, I would agree that it's likely rod bearings. One thing to remember is, the HO 4.0L engines were known for having a "slight" knock to them from new. Our '95 YJ has had it since we bought it in early 1997 and still does it now. I would go record the sound, but it is not running right now while I am awaiting a new PCM to get here for it :shake: .

Tuning is only required if you get an adjustable antenna like a Firestick. The "power" of the radio is federally regulated, so there is not much you can (legally) do there. Just get a good quality radio like Midland or Cobra. I have used both and had no problems. I think the two that I have now are Cobra actually. They are easy to install yourself, but if you use a Firestick type antenna, you will need someone with an SWR meter to tune it for you so you don't damage your radio. I destroyed my first Cobra because I did not know about the tuning thing. It worked for a few months, but then just started make a terrible squealing noise on other peoples radios when I push the key to talk, and eventually would not receive anymore.

It is simply a switch that is run through an adjustable thermostatic control mounted on the left fender above the ballast resistor. The control that I got is not the greatest quality, and I would not use the same one agian, but Iwas in a hurry to get it done and grabbed one. It turns on a little too early and I have it adjusted as far up as I can. Look in to Spal contollers in you are going to do this.

This one? http://www2.dana.com/expert/wc.dll?hvtss~deabill~5~ btw, wasn't trying to be a jerk or anything. Been trying to figure out the gearing in my axles and it sounded like the link could help. I think this is the thread that you are looking for. I searched "axle bom" and it was the second or third result on the list ;) . viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15387&p=155342&hilit=axle+bom#p155342

FIAT is not "buying Jeep", they are investing in the Chrysler Corporation as a whole, so the entire line (Chrysler-Jeep-Dodge) will benefit.

:agree: Changing the injection system will not solve your problem, but rather, it will create more most likley. Like I said in the other thread, you need to diagnose it when it won't start and find out if the problem is fire or fuel, then we can go from there and narrow down what is causing it.

What is wrong with what you have? There would be NOTHING easy about swapping in a system from another Jeep. It will require a new computer, new sensors, new wiring harness etc, etc... Doing something like that would make absolutley no sense. The Renix system (that he has) is simpler to work on and works great... :dunno:

Definitely not my style, but I think the black wheels help tone it down to where it's not as offensive looking. I think it needs smaller wheels and bigger/thicker tires. I like the ride height as it is...if it were lower then it would be more offensive looking.

I do agree that the repeat questions are annoying, but I do not agree that the search is a problem. I find things using it regularly and don't have any major issues with it...just have to use some creative thinking/wording sometimes ;) . I have seen a few posts that someone says "I tried the search, but couldn't find it"...when I go and use the same search and find it in just a few minutes :dunno: .

Iagree with JOe...this is ag ood thing. FIAT is actually a pretty strong corporation and with their stated willingness to bring manufacturing to the US, it will be a good shot in the arm. IF this doesn't happen, and Chrysler is forced in to Chapter 11, there will be A LOT more people on the unemployment payroll like me.

This is a great reference page for all vehicle bolt patterns... CLICK HERE

Yes, they will fit the MJ, and I think they would look good :cheers:

Key codes are not attainable for a truck of that age any more. The cut-off is somewhere around 1990 - 1992 for being able to get the key code from the VIN.

I used the H.O. housing on my Renix so I could have a place to put the switch for the electric fan.

I bought all new lug nuts for both the MJ & YJ at 4 Wheel Parts about 8 months ago for .50 cents each. They are the solid one piece style too.

I have never seen a Dakota with anything but a 6 on 4.5 or a 5 on 5.5 bolt pattern, but I am not familiar with the older ones. What year is the truck you are talking about? EDIT: I just found a spec sheet on them. The '87 - '90 did use a 5 on 4.5 pattern. '91 - '04 were 6 on 4.5, the the '05 to current are 5 on 5.5 .

Very cool :thumbsup: Love to see rescues :yes:

I'm with JT... Anyone that just comes here to "use" the site to peddle their stuff, and does not contribute to the site content by communicating in the other forums, should not be here. You can not compare selling things at "craft fairs" (& such) to this site. Those type of places are designed for the specific purpose to bring people together to sell stuff. This site is designed to bring people together to share our love of the truck...AND...if it so happens that you have something to sell, there is a forum to do that. Just MHO ... :cheers:

A 285/70/17 is a 33x11.25 tire A 305/65/17 is a 33x12 tire Both are available in the BFG MT tire if you have 17" wheels that will fit the truck.

Welcome to the Club! :cheers: I am REALLY curious as to why anyone would put clothes pins on the fuel rail :hmm: When it does this, you need to check the basics and try to narrow it down. Check to see if there is spark and check the fuel pressure. I can only guess at it with such a broad list of possibilities, but I would think that it is likely a lack of fire, and probably going to be something to do with a heat soaked CPS or coil. The Renix control system normally takes anyhwere from 2 - 4 seconds of turning over before it will start, so if you are within that range, there is no problem there.

The ballast resistor is by-passed at start-up, so starting has nothing to do with that...however, since you say it starts and then slowly dies, you may want to try eliminating the resistor with a jumper and see if anything changes.

My 3.5" RE lift gave me almost 5" of lift to start with. Now that it has settled, it is still sitting at 4". I just measured the front about 2 weeks ago and it is at 21.5" from the center of the hub to the bottom of the flare. I added upper control arms and a track bar to mine then got the 3" leaf packs for the rear from Hell Creek to make it set level.

Go to the classifieds forum, read the post at the top with the "rules for posting" in it and then post what you want to sell or buy.

Welcome!! :cheers: Definitely be sure to start a thread in the project forum.