BLHTAZ

Very cool Keep us posted on the progress, and welcome to the Club :cheers:

He is doing a front axle, so this does not apply ;) :cheers:

That change is not going to save much...may reduce weight by 60-80 pounds... :dunno: . Definitely not worth the work.

The TPS is a posibility. The proper test procedure for it is in hte DIY forum here... viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12260

I am not sure what you mean by "a little wedge", but there should just be a center pin that goes through the spring pack. The center pin will have a large, protruding head that fits in a hole in the spring perch to keep the spring centered on the axle. It sounds like the center pin has broken off and just needs to be replaced...not a big deal, you just need to get another center pin, remove the spring, put the new center pin in and bolt it all back up. You will probably need new u-bolts as well. You will also need to be sure to secure the spring pack together wil some c-clamps before taking the u-bolts loose or the spring pack will pop apart. Not hat it's hard to reassemble, but...

The number I have highlighted and colored is the Bill of Materials (BOM) number. According to that number, that is a D35 rear axle with 4.10 gears and a trac-lock limited slip differential. 33's would be better, but you will still need roughly 6" of lift to do it without cutting. They will be easier on the truck, but will still slow it down and you will have to be VERY careful not to break the D35 rear. With 33's, itcan be easily broken...even on hte street with just a hard take-off.

Yea...you can do it without taking the fuel lines off...it's just easier to take the rail out and do it on a bench, especially for folks like me with back trouble. If they were asking $17 for a single o-ring, it must have been one of the injector o-rings. You can't buy singles for the quick disconnects at the dealership.

The 8.8 is the better choice...no question. :thumbsup: I would even choose the 8.8 over the D44 any day.

No...I have never worked for a union because I refuse to support such a horrible thing. I believe that an employer should have the right to hire and fire at their discretion, and not have their reasoning scrutinized. The employer should have full control of how his business is run and who gets paid how much...period. If a company has a handbook, and it states that you are allowed a certain amount of time off for certain reasons, and you get fired unjustly (as you did TNT), then a grievance should be filed with the labor board, and the termination would likely be reversed. I have seen that happen. There is no need for a union to "have your back" over something like that. I have looked for good reasons to believe in unions, but to this day have still not found any. :cheers: I think we are getting a little off topic here...sorry... :doh:

From my previous post... ;)

Just to be clear.. your saying it is OK to mount EITHER way. ALSO, I have 5100 shocks out back...... man it SUX to forget stuff!!! CW nope, I'm 90% certain they have to be can up. every pic i see of them mounted, the can is up. OK...one more time...they are a gas shock...they do not 'have' to be in either direction. A gas shock can be mounted either way...it does not matter.

Yep...either way. Hydraulic = can down only Gas = either way Yours are gas :thumbsup: :cheers:

That's what I was afraid you were thinking. The injectors have new o-rings on them...you just need the ones where the fuel lines connect to the rail. The incoming line at the rear, and the return at the front of the rail.

Unions take the control of the business owners and managers away. The business management or owners should be the ones to say what benefits the employees are entitled to, how much pay they are entitled to, what vacation time they get, etc, etc... Unions control all of that kind of stuff, forcing companies to pay millions of dollars that they really can not afford or should not be paying. Unions have been the death of many businesses over the years. A union is nothing but pure evil that should not exist. Just because you perform the same job as me does not mean that you deserve the same pay as me. I may be way more efficient than you, have more experience than you, but in a union, the employer is going to have to pay what the union says regardless of whether the person is really worth it or not. There are a lot of auto workers that are about to be out of jobs soon, and a big part of the reason is the unwillingness of the unions to make concessions and help out...so now their people are going to be in the street. :cheers:

Yes...I read about it. You have to drill and tap the holes for the bolts. I would trust that more than the welding that we did on the cast knuckle on our YJ...although ours has held well so far. Grade 8 bolts are going to be stronger than a weld.

Be very careful. A blow-out on 35's at highway speed is going to be quite a mess, and as mentioned, will do considerable body damage most likely. If they are dry rotted as you state, I would not trust them for long.

I agree that, over-all, it will be a good thing. It is unfortunate that so many will suffer from it in the short term though. Breaking the unions and getting rid of them is probably going to be one of the best things about it.

You are going to need at least a 6.5" kit, and maybe a little trimming to make them fit. There are good kits available from Rubicon Express, Motion Offroad, Rock Krawler, and a few others. Be prepared to spend $1500 on a good kit...and stay away from the "bargain" kits. Remember, you get what you pay for.

I see no reason to be afraid of it. I wish that had been available when I built our YJ, but I used a drop pitman arm, cut off the big end, flipped it over and welded it on to the knuckle to create my own similar set-up.

:eek: :eek: Thats more than the injectors cost :nuts: :rant: You only need two kits...so it would be $34...but, you are almost right. The injectors are about $20 each when you break the price down :shake: :thumbsup:

The pressure is not that intense, so you should be able to press the schraeder valve within just a few minutes, if not immediately, after shutting the engine down. It doesn't really maintain any pressure to speak of in the line. The injectors come with new o-rings, so the only ones you will need are the fuel line quick disconnect replacements. The OE part number is 83502745, but I think you can get the kits at NAPA or Autozone.

You should be able to get them at most good auto parts stores. I know NAPA carries them, and I believe Autozone has them in the "help" stuff. If you need the OE number, it is 83502745. They are typicaly about $17 each at the dealership.

I would recommend the Nitro Shock upgrade on it, and you do not need the pitman arm that they include. Other than that, I agree with Pete...for a mud truck, it seems to be a good choice :thumbsup: .

Nice work... :thumbsup:

I am not familiar with Bilstein's, but I believe that the 5150 is a gas shock, in which case would allow it to be mounted in either direction. If you have a hydraulic shock, it must be can down.