BLHTAZ

OK...it is confirmed. We will be making the trip up as planned on the 23rd & 24th...returning on hte 30th & 31st. We will be stopping for the night in Beckley, WV on the way up, and stopping in Ridgeway, SC on the way back down. If we can assist anyone that is right along our travel route, or can meet us there, we will be happy to do it :thumbsup:

The reason that the the manufacturers are recommending dinos has nothing to do with heat. They are saying that the synthetics don't allow enough wear to for the gears (or lockers) to break in correctly. So after break-in synthetics should be fine? That is correct JT. The benefits of Synthetic still FAR out-weigh any concerns :thumbsup: . It is always recommended that any engine, tranny, or axle get a proper break-in time before switching to Synthetic fluids. Synthetics will still get the best performance and longest life out of anything vs. conventional lubricants.

Getting aftermarket wheels with less backspacing will move them out. Putting a bigger tire on your stock wheels is not going to make much difference. The ideal thing would be some 31x50's on a 15x8 wheel with about a 3.75" BS and you will be real close to what you want. This is an old shot of mine with 3.5" lift, 15x8 wheels with 3.68" BS, and 31x10.50 tires...

Not cracking on you CW, but I used to go for the additive "gimmicks" like this and Slick 50 (among others), but I have found no need for them since I started using AMSOIL. I use the lubricants in everything, and occasionally put some AMSOIL fuel treatment in the tank. When AMSOIL is used properly, it can actually cost less than conventional oil, and it leaves no gunk or deposits to be worried about cleaning :smart: :thumbsup: It is very likely that you will see improvements with zMax, as there are a lot of good additives out there that do make a difference, it's just unnecessary expense IMHO :cheers: .

Good job :cheers: Glad you found the problem.

I find it hilarious that a "professional" is promoting a steering stabilizer as a death wobble solution... :shake: :rotf: I have never had dealings with Kevin's, but I have heard a lot of good about them :thumbsup:

If you incorporate Google Toolbar in IE, there is a spell checker in it, but again, you have to click on it to make it work, it's not automatic like Firefox.

I get the notifications with no problems. I am in my email at least 10 times a day, so it makes it easy for me. :thumbsup:

OK...it's 4:37 a.m. ... :ack: We are about 1 hour from leaving for Jeep Beach. What a long, hot, hard day this is going to be... :cheers:

True, and I had an issue where I changed the battery cables, and moved the ground to a different spot, which caused a severe high idle problem on mine.

The relay should be on the passenger side under the hood with the other relays if I remember correctly.

Mine does it occasionally (like once every 5-6 weeks maybe) too, but if it's consistent, something needs to be done.

The dealership that I got laid-off from back in November has been closed, along with three other dealers in the Orlando/Sanford area.

I would bet water pump. With fresh green like that, there is no way that it is coming from "inside" the oil pan. That looks to be coming from the bottom of the water pump and running along the lip of the pan.

I use the ProComp ES9000's on everything I own. They are a great riding gas shock and they are not expensive at around $40 - $45 each :thumbsup:

With the HO system, the relay would be my first thought too. If you have AC, the fan should come on immediately with the AC being turned on, so try that to see if the fan is working at all or just put direct power to the fan to be sure the motor is good.

Most likely it is the IAC. You need to remove the throttle body, take the IAC and TPS off of the throttle body, clean it REALLY well, clean the IAC shaft seat, and then reassemble everything. You will have to set the TPS back to proper specs when you are done. CLICK HERE for the how-to on the TPS adjustment. If that doesn't fix it, then the IAC is probably going bad.

Yea...that's the downside to this year. This is the first time that it has been at the Daytona International Speedway, and the speedway has set the rule of no spectators for "security" reasons from what I have been told. If you decide to come, please be sure that you get there during the registration time. If you get there even one minute after 11:00 a.m. on Saturday, they will not let you in.

I found diesel for $2.27 yesterday. I'm loving it...lower price than gas and I am getting 6 MPG better than my other Dodge with the 4.7L in it.

Yea...the basics are; Friday night is the opening party at the Wing House (I believe), then Saturday is the main event at the Speedway with some other stuff going on saturday night after the show, then Sunday there is a huge parade of Jeeps that drives out to the beach, drives down the beach (weather & tide permitting), then back to the host hotel for a closing pool party. I did just find out that you can not just come as a spectator. In order to get in the Speedway, you must pay the $60 fee to register for the weekend and bring a Jeep in. Below is copied from the Mid Florida Jeep Club site: Schedule of Activities Friday, May 15th 2:00 PM – 8:00 PM 2:00 PM – 10:00 PM Registration @ LaQuinta 2725 International Speedway Blvd., Daytona Beach, FL 32124 Reception @ WingHouse next door to LaQuinta 5:00 PM – 9:00 PM Raffle tickets for sale 7:00 PM – 10:00 PM Vendor Meet n Greet @ WingHouse Patio Saturday, May 16th 9:00 AM – 11:00 AM Registration @ Turn 1 Tunnel Enter at Gate 40 off Williamson Blvd 9:00 AM – 1:30 PM Obstacle Course 9:00 AM – 5:00 PM Show-n-Shine, Vendor Fair and Kid’s Activities 9:00 AM Raffle tickets sale begins 10:00 AM Small Raffle Drawings Begin 1:30 PM People’s Choice nomination due Tickets turned in @ raffle table 2:00 PM Show-n-Shine Awards Announced 2:15 PM Last Call for Raffle Tickets Sales will end promptly at 2:30 PM 2:30 PM Large Raffle Prizes and 50/50 Drawings 3:30 PM – 6:00 PM Obstacle Course Last Jeep enters at 5:30 PM 6:00 PM All Jeeps out of the infield 7:00 PM Jeep Beach™, Night @ The Plaza 600 N. Atlantic Avenue, Daytona Beach, FL32118 8:30 PM Dive-In Theatre @ The Plaza Kid-friendly movie at pool Sunday, May 17th 8:00 AM Beach Parade Staging International Speedway Blvd Access – follow directions for Beach Picture – Last Jeep Paid for at 9:00 AM 9:30 AM Beach Photo and Parade Start (weather permitting) After Parade – 2:30 PM Pool Party @ LaQuinta Jeep Beach 2009 Collectable T-Shirts available on the registration page. Only a limited number will be made so get your order in TODAY!

I paid $2.29 for Diesel two days ago...it's $2.31 now. Gas is $2.17 for 87

Taz, know of any link or docs to this Spidertrax spacer failure? I'm all for safety, and of course you know I'm not doubting you mate. :cheers: Unfortunately not Don. This happened back in 2002-2003 era when I was working at 4 Wheel Parts, so it was in the firt 3 years of existance for the Spidertrax. May have been inferior to todays...who knows...

:yes: Yea...we have been through this one a few times, but I will NEVER believe that there is a safe wheel spacer built after what I have seen happen with them. One expensive mess was due to failure of the so called "good Spidertrax" spacer. I know many people use them and never have an issue, but the risk is more than I am willing to gamble on. ;) :thumbsup:

Wheel spacers are definitely NOT your answer. Putting a wheel spacer that thick in there would just make them rub on hte body when you turn instead of the control arm...outside of the fact that it would be terribly dangerous.

It depends on how you have your mouse set up. Clicking on the scroll wheel on mine creates multiple small windows on my screen showing everything I have open. The operation of hte mouse buttons is controlled by the mouse settings, not the browser. ;)