BLHTAZ

While they should both be 21 spline connections, I believe there is a difference in the length of the input shaft on those two cases. We'll wait for some back-up on this though ;)

These engines are intended to run at 200 - 210 degrees. If you run it too much cooler than that you will have problems. The t-stat housing is where i put my sensor for the adjustable fan controller that I used and it works great...you just have to get the t-stat housing for the '91 - newer engine so it has the hole in it for the sensor. :cheers:

Nice work and nice write up :thumbsup:

...and DON'T get either on the TPS or you will be replacing it for sure.

It should be working now. I think they were doing some maintenance or something this morning as I noticed that the picture disappeared out of the "My Video" file on Youtube for a short time earlier too.

HERE is the test procedure for the TPS. You will need this to adjust a replacement properly as well if you do replace it. I would get some electrical parts cleaner instead of using the carb cleaner in the fuse box, but agree that if it's being affected like that it probably will need to be replaced.

can we get a smilie for "shameless self promotion"? :dunno: Nothing wrong with it. If he had not done it...I would have ;) :cheers:

Yep...that is jbhill's. He has a build thread on it in hte Project forum. It is an amazing job so far and a lot of heart & soul put in to it. It's not something I would ever do to a truck, but I repect what he wants / likes and I am sure it will be a great truck when he is done :thumbsup:

I don't know where he came from, but he hangs out there with a female and a bunch of chickens. They all just hang out & walk around the yard...

Now your talkin' :thumbsup: :yes: Good decision :cheers:

:agree: Why would anyone take the time to make a video of their truck starting up and revving just to hear it start when it's cold. Mine doesn't sound any different starting cold or hot to me... :nuts: :hmm: :dunno:

Not even hungry?? ;)

We came across this guy while doing some work to help out at a local animal rescue today. He thought he was the ruler of all and was not affraid to show it... :yes:

Sweet... :thumbsup: Is the picture deceiving or is it a bit shorter than the cab?

Ya'll are correct...it is a problem, but it does get to a point that you cannot shift because of the use of fluids with sulfur in them destroying the syncros, which is why I had to have mine rebuilt several years ago. Since the rebuild and the use of AMSOIL 75w-90 gear oil, it shifts very smooth in all gears.

I got my cables from the dealership. It came as a complete harness with positive & negative cables all together. I have seen others post of aftermarket solutions in pre-made cables too, but I don't really know about them as I prefer to get OE stuff as often as possible.

It is possible because the wire inside breaks down with grime & corrosion and can not trasnfer the proper ground. I would get that replaced and see what happens. I can't say that I expect it to fix your issue...but I battled with mine for many weeks until I found the bad battery cable & connection...so you never know :dunno:

Yup...if you use a Synthetic gear oil like AMSOIL or Royal Purple...there is no sulfur to worry about and you don't have to worry about running motor oil in your tranny :doh: . My AX-15 went out at about 55K and had to be rebuilt so getting that many miles out of one that has had the wrong fluid in it is real good.

This part of your statement is really making me think that it is a vacuum issue...possibly related to and internal issue with the brake booster. Is there ever a difference in the "feel" of the brake pedal pressure, position or holding power when this happens? Other than that...the ECU is about the only other thing I can think of too. As Wildman alluded too, my idle issues were caused by a bad ground at the main grounding point on the block where the negative battery cable attaches as well as 3-4 other ground wires that ground the entire electrical system of the truck...including the ECU. Once I took all of them off, replaced my battery cables, cleaned everything and put it back together...it has been good.

:agree: That's what I would do too :thumbsup:

OK...I just couldn't figure out who you were talking to... :thumbsup: :rotf:

...and your point is...?? :dunno:

It's on the upper limits of what I would pay, but not terrible. :cheers:

He fixed it. There was an extra "T" in it, but it's gone now. I had that problem last night ;) :no: Careful...language like that will get you in trouble quick around here... Nobody said "give" it away, but $6000 for the small base model is expensive. At 25, you are still too young to realize the true value of your money and what it could be doing for you in the proper place...unles you have a bunch of it and it doesn't matter to you ;) :thumbsup: OH...yes...I agree...very nice truck :bowdown:

Just so you know...the D35 is a weak axle that is not good for much of anything but easy daily driving. The shafts are weak, the housings are weak...just nothing good about them if you are going to use it for anything strenuous.