BLHTAZ

The problem with doing the spring over is that it forces you to lift the front 5-6", which is going to get expensive to do properly - even if you "piece it together". I personally don't believe in piecing things together. You are better off to buy a kit and have it right to start with IMHO :cheers: I have never been one to spend a bunch of time searching, asking questions, blah, blah, blah... I decide on what I want, go buy the kit and do it :thumbsup: .

Any progress here? Just checking again...

Setting the toe is easy, but a true alignment can not be done without the proper equipment. I would just put a spacer in there is all you need is 1". I can't stand to see a truck that is not level either. I have leveled every truck that I have owned and have never seen any problem with driveability. It seems to me that you would have to be driving 80 mph (or more) to notice a problem with air flow, and there is no reason to be driving that fast in these trucks anyway ;) .

EXACTLY... Stay away from Rusty's... If you wish to mix-n-match like that (which we have to do), get the RE 3.5" kit for an XJ and then get your 3" leaf springs for the rear. That is the set-up I have on mine :cheers: . You will have to measure and match shocks for the rear too because of it being an XJ kit, the rear shocks will not be the right length.

I don't know that I have seen a DIY done on it because it is such a simple process. To remove the old: Diconnect from the battery, diconnect from the solenoid, disconnect from the starter and disconnect from the block. To install the new: reverse the process :cheers: There are a few pictures of the old & new cables (from when I did mine) about half way don page one of my build thread. The link is in my sig if you want :D .

Yes, Bosch is who makes them for Ford ;) :thumbsup:

Dave, I know you are in FL, but where exactly? You only put "Florida" in your profile. I can probably suggest a place for you to buy stuff when I know this. Sounds like you need to do as I did and remove the valve cover to clean the "CCV towers" inside as they get clogged up too. You can see more on page two of my build from the link in my sig, but here is two pictures (before & after cleaning) to illustrate what I am talking about. Mine were not clogged, but the VC gasket was leaking so I figured I would clean everything up good while I was in there.

:agree: If it's in good shape and running good, it is worth that. :thumbsup:

I don't have any "scientific" back-up for it, but from what I have been seeing, changing the injectors at around 100K on most vehicles is appropriate. Quite a few that we have seen have had improvements in performance, mpg, etc. at 80K & up. What you have to remember is, going to a set of "flow matched" Ford Motorsport injectors is going to be an improvement - even over a brand new set of Denso injectors. The 4 hole pintle creates a much finer mist that is burnt much more efficiently than any single hole or fan type pintle could ever do.

Yep...super easy. I recommend that you put just a VERY LITTLE bit of grease on the o-rings before installing the injectors to make them slide in easy. If they fit tight and you put even a small nick in one...it gets real messy, real quick...don't ask how I know :oops: :smart: . Just be careful not to get the grease in or on the ends of the injector itself.

Click on the link in this post I made earlier. The injectors are Ford Motorsport injectors and are used in many applications, not just Mustangs. The link that I provided is the injectors that are needed for the '87 - '95 4.0L Jeep. :cheers:

Sounds like you got some inferior injectors. It's not just the injector, but the quality of the workmanship in the rebuild process. Precision has an incredible process of rebuilding and flow matching every set. If you buy a brand new set, and they are not flow matched, they will not work as well as the ones from someone like Precision that takes the time to do it. Stock Denso's are crap...and they are a lot more expensive ;) .

Please don't tell him that when everyone else in this thread has already told him corectly that those wheels & tires will not work on a stock 2WD truck. MAYBE if they were on stock wheels, but not the set-up that is being asked about...there will be serious rubbing issues. My 31's on aftermarket wheels and 3.5" lift come close to rubbing, so there is NO WAY that they would work on a stock 2WD.

Very nice!!! That is the kind of wheelin' that we like to do :thumbsup:

AMSOIL may have a bigger price tag on it, but when you consider that it is - BAR NONE - the best protection that you can get and you will get nearly twice the life out of the fluid, it is actually cheaper in the long run. I have heard that some folks have reported tranny temps being reduced by 70 degrees after switching to AMSOIL, but that is just hear-say and not anything I can back-up with proof. I agree with you that the shifting issue is likey a side effect of something else going on, not the other way around.

I think I would try having the rod & main bearings replaced. At 155K, the engine should still have a lot of life left in it unless it has been abused.

You will be happy that you went with that gasket. I have used the RTV only method and it doesn't last long. Right Stuff is great, but it is so strong that if you need to remove it, you will have an all out war on your hands getting the cover off. I use Right Stuff on my diff covers only because I know that they are not coming off any time soon.

I can't help, but it might help if someone knew what you needed it for ;) . Have you run the tests on yours to be sure it's bad instead of just needing adjustment? You should finish filling in you profile with you location and your signature with your vehicle information. It helps greatly at times like this :D . Also, I'm sure this will get moved by a Mod, but it should be in the classified section :cheers: .

No, a throttle kicker motor was something used on some older vehicles that would increase the idle speed to accommodate the AC when turned on. It is referred to as an Idle Stepper Motor in some cases though. :cheers:

With a 2" lift, you will likely get them "on", but fit...no. The term "fit" means that when installed, they do not rub on anything at full lock-to-lock steering or at full articulation of the suspension. If they touch anywhere, then they do not "fit". This is the best side shot I have of mine with the 3.5" lift & 31's, but it has changed a little since this picture.

In order to properly fit the 31's on your truck , mounted on the Cragar wheels, a 3" lift would be the correct thing to do. I have 3.5" lift and 31" Swampers on mine and the fit is just right. They don't rub anywhere (but it's close), and it looks good. Mine is a driver only with 3.07 gears, and while it is a little slow, it still does well at 16-17 mpg around town. 3.73 gears are in it's future somewhere though...

CLICK HERE for the Precision Injectors. There is no down side to them. I had increases in power, idle smoothness, accleration and a 14% increase in MPG :yes: . If you decide to purchase tham, be sure to us ' JEEP ' in the discount/coupon code at checkout for a 10% savings. :cheers:

I was replying to ' glundblad ' but forgot the quote...sorry. I am in the process of schooling in order to make a change right now, but it's going to be about 20 months before I am ready at this point.

No...the dealership I worked at is still open, they just downsized.

Yea...before they found the problems, the best I was getting was about 13-15 Mb/s. I have been paying for the "Turbo Roadrunner" service...now I am finally seeing it. :D