dfreeman616

that's still a couple hours from me, too. but if nothing else comes of it, i may see what i can do.

looks good, too bad only the top will work on my long bed. did you change bears or just loose the can cozy?

1. measure it and find out, there are plenty of non-abs shafts with the larger 297 u-joints. 2. no it shouldn't matter.

enjoy your bricks :wrench:

if you have an air hammer, the best way to remove a unit bearing is use a chisel between the bearing and knuckle, moving around as needed.

http://dfreeman616.mybrute.com/ why did you do this to me? like i need another reason to waste time online...

i have a pair still, i think. $20 shipped

for anyone else considering doing this, flipping cars can bring some good side money. i have 2 sitting around waiting for my tax refund so i can get the parts. when i flip a car, i always price it on the low side of the value. after all, i'm making a good profit for the time i put into it, but whoever buys it still gets a good deal. everyone wins. one guideline i've come up with is look for a car that's about 10 years old, needs either a motor or transmission, and can be had for 300-500. figuring it needs a couple other things, i can usually put between 1000-1500 into a car that's now worth 3500-4500. i can fairly easily get $2000 out of it, have 10-30 hours into, and still sell it for less than the average cost of that model of car. sometimes i'll pay a bit more or get a little less, but still get a grand out of it for less than an average work week worth of hours.

as a mechanic, i hate cork and love the permadry gaskets. i've never had a problem with a properly installed permadry, but have seen many cork gaskets fail shortly after proper install. they also come back apart clean without lots of scraping and prep work before putting it back together, and are reusable as mentioned.

it is normal, but should be fixed. the first thing to do is pull the small tube that goes from the back of the valve cover to the intake and see if it's clogged with carbon. if it is, either clean it or replace it. i think it's about $10 through a jeep dealer. if that still doesn't work, try pulling the valve cover and clean out the baffles below where both the tubes in the valve cover go through. for future reference though, questions like this should go in the MJ Tech section, not the pub.

the a pillar trim and the trim under the doors are a little different from mj to xj, so those too. don't pass up on 2 door xj's, the bucket seats have that nice tilt back function :wrench:

try this Image Not Found C1 Image Not Found Image Not Found C2 Image Not Found Image Not Found C3 Image Not Found Image Not Found

My boss' 355 Chevy that's going into his 81 Monte Carlo drag car. That thing is gonna be fast.

i'm looking forward to have a big fat 0 for my credit score. i don't borrow money anymore.

hope this helps. there's also a connector diagram for c3, but no pinout charts for c3 :dunno: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

yes give me a little while

use a slide hammer and fix it before it flies out while driving.

if cps is bad, won't start on ether. cps controls spark.

i don't see a count on how many are interested yet, but depending on how much it costs i'd be interested in just the template, the brackets, or perhaps the whole hitch...

having used and witnessed the results of using both new autozone duralast and reman a1 cardone water pumps, i'd go with the cardone anyday. those are what we use at work, and never see any problems with quality. i can't say the same for duralast, for what it's worth.

if it doesn't go up too much, perhaps. it has an ax15, but it is only 2wd

ever thinking of putting in a car lift? even if you can't now, it wouldn't hurt to be ready for it down the road. look into what it would cost to bump it up to a 14' ceiling, most lifts need that kind of clearance and you can get a new lift for $3000 installed if you shop around, so they're not really that expensive. less if you get a good used unit. then you would also need 6" think concrete floors...

if it's free, who cares? take it.

what's it do? if it doesn't shift out of 1st, it's probably just a computer issue, they're cheap and easy to replac.

go check out garagejournal.com for some ideas and tips, and just plain some sweet garages.