dfreeman616

price is hard to say... depends on how you get the parts. the way i did it with my old truck was buy a smashed up cherokee, use what i needed, sell the motor and whatever else i could, scrap the rest, and have cash in pocket. if you can't do that, then figure spending $200 to $500, depending on how good of deals you can come up with and how patient you are. also depends on if you need to get anything else at the same time (brakes, for example).

in the last few days... 1. replaced d44 pinion flange/seal. 2. replaced d44 right axle bearing/seal 3. fixed exhaust from cat back with tailpipe 4. replaced exhaust manifold and remove one broken bolt 5. replaced water pump 6. replaced t-stat with stock unit, back flush heater core with water and compressed air...HEAT WORKS! 7. replace coolant tank with extra one 8. replaced aftermarket oil pressure sender/tube with stock one to eliminate oil leak 9. replaced left front unit bearing under warranty, timken bad that quick? what? 10. discover bad left front u-joint at same time, replace u-joint 11. fix driver's door so it locks 12. replace headlight switch and rewire power source for park lights and instrument lights i think that's about it...oh and an oil change

is it just me, or does the first pic look like a photo crop? looks like fun, though

sorta. it was a brush fire at a house 2 doors down from my parents. we had a nice campfire going when we noticed another fire upwind of us at the neighbor's place. being in the country, that didn't seem odd until it got bigger...so after putting out our fire, we ran over with shovels and a rake to help put it out. between me, my dad, a friend, the next door neighbors, and the neighbors who's property was burning, we got it out. they had been trying to burn leaves and grass earlier, but gave up thinking it wasn't going anywhere because it was too green. well, i guess it wasn't too green after all! certainly made for an interesting saturday night.

i have the Ingersoll Rand 2135TI also, great gun! Good power, and going head to head against the $400-500 Snap-On my co worker has, it pretty much holds up with a lot less weight in your hand and I think it's quieter. I also have the 3/8" driver version, which has a lot of power for the size but is lighter and quieter than the 1/2" drive. Again, great gun.

My sister-in-law needs a vehicle for cheap, $800 is about all she can come up with at the moment. I know she needs an automatic, I think she would prefer a 4-door car but would consider a decent Cherokee or similar vehicle. I'll have to check on if she would consider a small truck like a Comanche. If you know of anything, let me know!

... and see if an admin could make a sticky out of it to get more attention.

that would depend on your criteria for active members. post count alone doesn't really do it, since there's always new people around and some jump right in while others only post a few times before leaving. also, how recent the last post is doesn't determine "active" in my mind, since again there are plenty of usernames with only a couple posts including new ones. edit: not to mention you've only been here a little longer than i have, but have over 4 times as many posts. i'd still say i'm an active member, though, with only about 850 posts so far.

What the hell are you doing on "a mexican classified site"?! looking for a chickita! :eek: google pic search for jeep comanche, followed the link cause it was an unusual MJ.

yes, $600+ would be right for a shop, but there's always learn to do it yourself or pay a mechanic for some side work. i've been known to do side work for friends for much cheaper than a shop, and plenty of other mechanics do, too. it all depends on how bad the axle is, who would get it, and how much it costs as is.

:clapping:

how bad was the punch in the housing? it might be repairable, and the damaged gear is just a good excuse to to change the ratio.

what aisle did you find those on :hmm:

that motor home one was posted a few pages back, or perhaps on another thread. still don't know anything about it though.

we have 2 customers at my shop who asked us to do the same kind of thing, except they wanted to have grill guards out of the bunk beds. one on a late model xj, and one on a zj. both turned out looking like junk that started out as a kids bed... i'd say don't do it, but i won't hate you if you do it. by the way, we're a general auto repair shop that does exhaust, so that's why they asked us to do the welding on it.

http://www.greatlakes4x4.com/showthread.php?t=185190 needs work to it still

you can thank my 2 year old son, he wanted to look at trucks... found on a mexican classified site http://www.ooyyo.co.uk/used-jeep-comanche-mexico-na-4415425531893422666.html

i'd say go for it, if the floors are solid. the bed and rockers look good.

i guess i'm unclear then. have you tried grounding pin 12, or read where someone else did and it didn't work? as for pin 6, that diagram shows that a6 is always grounded on the manual and grounded when the range switch is in park/neutral, so un-grounding it wouldn't help. the only other link i can find in the diagrams i've found so far is the CCD bus. i know the diagnostic block doesn't do anything related to the extended idle, but it might also transfer data to and from the trans module and pcm. of course, there's still the possibility that the pcm needs different programing to allow for the extended idle.

or wait... on the manual trans, a6 should already be grounded. ignore what i've said so far...i'll need to look into it more. see the next one here, it might be a related to the ccd bus, as you can see in the next one if that's the case, i'm not sure what you could do to make it work.

i think i found what you're looking for. this is from the auto trans starting diagram. pin A6 C1 at PCM, Black/White wire. Park/Neutral position switch sense. try grounding that along with a12. as long as you don't need any other programing, i think that should work.

i know that's in the link you posted, but for ease of reference... you shouldn't need to do anything else besides provide ground to pin A12 (gray wire), and you shouldn't have to worry about the NSS at all. I looked at every wiring diagram involving the transmission range sensor (NSS) and the pcm as well as trans control modules, and there's no link between the two. if you want, just test it by grounding the A12 pin while it's running and see if the idle goes up. that test would cost you nothing but a couple minutes really. edit: i was wrong, i missed the diagram needed. see my next post below :oops:

So your saying you drove past my house without stopping by!? Rob L. not since i've really known you. my wife is from rockford so we visit her family every now and then. haven't been that way in awhile though. we'll be heading up to milwaukee and madison in december though.

how 'bout the boone country (IL) fair with a deep fried twinkee?

Rob, why must you tempt me with more tools? :fs1: That would be nice...