deziped

Pulled the tailgate off my spare 86 LB bed & removed the rust free handle & all the latching mechanism's & hinges from it. The bed is rust free & I'm comptemplating cutting a 1 foot section out of the front & rear & turning it into a bob-bed trailer. About a 5 footer or less. When it warms up a little & I get back from So CA I'll see if I can get motivated.

Anyone want one to play with. http://klamath.craigslist.org/pts/2204404010.html

Form your own opinions.......http://medford.craigslist.org/pts/2266124184.html

Looks to me like another spot for water to get into and rust out both diff covers. Maybe he should have drilled a drainage hole in the bottom of it.

Now that I have thought about it mine looked like that when the R main seal was a leaking bad. I sprayed the bottom side of the truck with a degreaser and pressure washed it. I replaced the seal at the same time and mine has not looked like that since. Clean it off and see if it starts to return. If it does strart trackin it.Thats not fresh stuff on there.

Without a picture of the front side I,m going to guess its the pinion shaft seal. Oil blowing back over the axles. Having no hands on knowledge in this case this guess is about as good as it gets from me.

Great bird shot. Nature in action rocks.

Gag it on Seafoam a couple times.

I removed that seal on the A pillars (held on by a couple plastic rivets) glued it down and reinstalled the rivets. My leak went away.

Where are the pics???????

The short speedo drive gears are were used when they went to electronic speedos. But, if you use the old style mechanical cable hookup I would think you could drop a long shaft driven gear in the hole and it would work for cable. You can get more info here with a call. http://www.transmissioncenter.net/speed ... ____va.htm

Very neat truck. Cool interior. Congrats

Just one liners written by someone else and without applaud signs just very stupid at times. I don't watch his new show.

Well even those CONEX containers aren't water proof. Have our stuff was ruined by water. And the several valuable items I watched them pack up didn't make it to the destination. Obiviously the container was opened before it was ever shipped. Probally at the local warehouse where the packers removed those items they had eye balled while packing it up. Buy your household items in Europe and live like one. Its cheaper than here. Remeber they use 240 volts for electronics, or did.

I'd go with #1 and bolt up a 242 to it while your under there & run it that way until (if & when) I decide to add a D30 in the front.

Here's a few in Portland. http://portland.craigslist.org/search/c ... k=&maxAsk= There are a couple on CL in Medford & Eugene. Some are 2.5's. Only about 700 miles to Medford up I-5

http://portland.craigslist.org/clk/pts/2250795475.html

Guess they'll have to get a new spokesman. At 6'8" & over 500# it finally caught up with him. http://www.latimes.com/health/boostersh ... 6516.story

Sounds like you should let it idle with the heater on from dec to Mar.

gal here today in Southern Oregon. Wifes glad she traded her Caddy in for the civic now.

Gonna put this one on my matinee schedule.

Go here: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=28750

Craiglist & he'll take payments!. http://portland.craigslist.org/mlt/cto/2223729534.html

Huh!!!!!!!!!

To answer the initial question: Most come off by pressure on the back side of the needle. I used a piece of 1/16 thick metal by hacksawing a slit in it and sliding the needle in the slit, behind the guage, and then grasping both ends of the metal and gently applying even pressure on the back of the guage needle while pulling straight out. The needle and stem bend easily so you have to be carreful or its ruined. I also marked where the end of the needle was located on the guage before attempting removal to assure a close return of the needle on the guage to where it was prior to removal. seemed to work ok as the needle settled on the spot it was at when vehicle was previously operated. Ues this procedure at your own risk.