deziped

So much for Oregons law. I see more texting & gabbing on cells now than before the law. Even the off duty cops do it. I wish they would get them out of resturants and doctors offices. Why doess everyone have to talk on these things so damn loud tha its annoying! I think I'll start carrying a portable radio or annoying toy and start drowning them out.

Possibly: http://roseburg.craigslist.org/search/c ... k=&maxAsk=

Grand daughters haul for first hour fishing. Gonna tag along with her soon and see if I have the same luck.

Looks like you have one of the 88 Olympic model MJ's. The gold stripe on side and tailgate is the give away.

Pull your TCU down to where you can work on it & check the yellow wire going into D 16 on the TCU for power (12 V) with ignition on. If power there check C16 to see if there is any output. Slot D1 should have 5 V coming from TPS. Slot D2 should have a TPS signal. Slot D3 is the TPS ground. Slot D7 is ground for the TCU. Slot C4 is the AW4 diagnostic (Y-T wire) . If there is no power at D16 trace it back to the ECU to verify if any power is coming out of the ECU. If that doesn't help then start swapping with known good used parts. Good luck.

for sale if your looking for one: http://salem.craigslist.org/search/cta? ... k=&maxAsk=

That will work, done a couple of such set-ups. You'll have to use a pressure regulator (adjustable preferred) in line to dial in specific flow nedded for whatever application your running.

Huh! Obiviously you didn't read the last sentence in the thread preceding your last thread. It answers one of the questions in your last thread.

Well Team Cherokee sells IAC"s (Speed controllers/steppers) for 91 - 97 Cherokees & 88- 90 also, with different part numbers for them. I'm not familiar with 91 up XJ or MJ vehicles so I kinda rely on what companys are selling for some of my info. Recently read an article where a 98 was being supercharged and modifications had to be made to clear th IAC on the 4.0. If you'd like to further enlighten me, I'm listening.

Pull the IAC and shoot a 1/4 can carb cleaner in the hole and let it sit for 10 minutes. Blow a little air through the hole Reinstall IAC and crank it over. If it starts it will probally idle high until exess gas or anything dumped into throttle body is burnt. While you have the IAC out check it to see if it is working properly.

Replaced the RTE and center link. It tok a litte more play out of the steering.

Pete, I was about to mention the IAC. Had a slight problem with high idle on mine over the weekend. Turned out to be crud in IAC as after removing it and squirting it down with carb cleaner (and in the hole in TB) it cleared it up. M2C

You mean this guy? http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/cgi-bi ... 1&catid=95 Yup, looked all ovet T Cherokee and never ran across it. Will order up a couple, THANKS! What kind of driveline problems was the bad mount giving you? With the loose mount when torque was applied to rear the trf case and drive shaft would flex up thus absorbing the initial torque before frorward momentum took over to move the vehicle. It felt Kind of like having loose ubolts on the axle or a clutch that was slipping a smidgen before it finally grabbed the flywheel

Replaced the tranny/trf case mount Took the wind up out of the drive line that the worn out mount caused. Installed to 1 1/2" ring tie downs under the bed rails on the fenders as additional strapping points for loads. Removed broken rear diff vent hose only to find the plastic connectors were broken on both ends. Are those things still available at dealers ?

Yes, the spacers are 1/4" thick

Knock a paint chip off and take it to a reputable pant dealer and they can match the paint to a T. And it's not olive drab

Replaced the Crank Position Sensor. It died on me at the store, first time ever, but finally started again after cranking it over about 20 times. Drove it home and tryed to start again numerous times over 3 days, but, it was a no go. Finally put the circuit tester on it and it read DOA. Past 6 months had an annoying little miss in it. Couldn't find casuse of it until today when I put the new CPS in. The miss disappared, now runs smooooth.

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Lets assume for a moment he changed the tire/wheel or both & it pulls right.. Something must have been bent when the blowout occured, like the spindle, axle or axle housing. Switch the tires around to diff positions on the vehicle and drive it & see what happens. Put the steering wheel in the centered position & squat in front of the MJ & eye-ball the wheels alignment in relation to the rear wheels to see if there is an obivious alignment problem (one wheel goin West the other east, etc.) Or just buy the damn thing knowing your gonna spend lots o bucks to fix it right like most jeepers do.

You can adjust the shift points by use of the accelerator also. Soft on the pedal equates to lower RPM shifts. Or stomp on it and it won't shift into 2nd until approximately 4500 RPM. Thats a jerk of an experience, if it doesn't bloo :oops: ooow first.

Hope you have a speedy rehab. Takes a lilttle bit of time (been there) to get back to normal routine. Don't rush it.

Pic of 99 XJ booster in my 89 using the 1/4" spacer. Required modifying (shorting) the pedal rod.

Nason Ful-Cryl Acrylic paint . VW Cimaron (A lil bright Alum, Maroon, Red, Gold, black, and pearl mix), and clearcoat. Canopy was painted the same, but, no clearcoat (the reason it looks lighter).

All else fails, check the OHMS of the 3 solenoids in the tranny. Check them by unplugging at TCU and probing transmission side of harnes with circuit tester, check as follows: Place NEG lead in D7 (ground) and then: Key OFF Probe C 14 (TC clutch solenoid), C 15 (Shift solenoid #2 (3rd gear), and while doing this you might as well check C16 (1st -2nd gear solenoid), however I don't think this one would cause symptons your describing. OHM range on all three should be 11 - 15 . One of these could be faulty causing it to move gear selection up or down . May be a speed sensor problem also. Good luck tracking problem

Use a booster out of a 98-99 WJ & it is almost a bolt in. No modification of booster/pedal rod necessary. I just did this on an 89 with a booster out of a 99 XJ and it required cutting and shortening of the booster rod which was a PITA. But I did'nt have to cut or bend the firewall in any way to install it. You will probally need a brake line flaring tool also as your gonna be making your own custom fit brake lines from the MC to the distribution block.