deziped

My 88 & 89 didn't have bushing in the hinges, they only had a split pin. I pulled the doors off punched out the pins and then just drilled the pin hole in the hinge out to 1/4" or maybe 13/64 and it cleaned it up enough so I could drop a greased up 1/4" bolt into the hinge. Worked good, no slag or slop in over 2 years now.

2.8 is kinda triangular looking thing sits up front on drivers side .

Continued to strip the 86 for parts. Decided to sell rust free bed also. Thats the worst dent in the bed. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found

My old 88 had emblems from factory. Their almost visible under Comanche in this pic. Image Not Found

I pulled the line . It's in good condition. Has a gray 6 pin female connector on a line that comes up through a grommet in the floor behind the drivers seat. Aprox 9 " under floor has a 3 pin connector that plugs into line going to fuel tank, from there the rest of the line goes to a flat 6 pin connector behind left tail light. Is that the one you need?

I have the 86 harness that runs from up front to rear left tail light. Fellow gonna stop by tomorrow to look at truck for parts he needs. If he doesn't take that harness I will pull it later to see what kinda condition its in. If its good it yours for USPS shipping costs. I'll get back to you NLT Monday PM. Orlyn

Took bed off. Image Not Found

I've got the pin-up job.

I posted that up on the classified back in late Nov or early Dec when it first appeared on Craiglist. I believe a couple members on CC got parts off of it. And yes it is a CFC victim. You should have seen some of the Cherokees they posted up as CFC. Not a damn thing wrong with them, not even dents.

Just a update reminder on this. A couple days before for you try to remove the nuts and bolts shoot the 8 bed bolts 3 gas tank strap bolts and the e brake screws with PB Blaster or similiar product. Hell, spray every nut you see while your under there as you may want to take something else off next month thats been locked on there for 20 years. I did that to my 86 on Thursday and on Friday it came apart like it had been built last week. The PITA ground screw behind the taillight didn't want to come out, but by putting the scredriver into the slot and whacking it hard a couple times with the hammer it backed right out. So plan ahead and give the PB Blaster time to work and it makes it a lot easier. In about 15-20 minutes everything was loose and bed was ready to lift off.

Well on the 86 I removed the bolts holding the bed and fuel tank on. Tomorrow if I have time I'll lift it off with the come-a-long. Also got the last of the black interior stripped out & cleaned up. Unbolted the clamps on the intermediate shaft so I can try and pry it out also.

You can check condition of solenoids at the TCU. Separate the large connector from the TCU. On the tran side with a circuit tester ground the tester to pin D7. With positive lead probe C14 (clutch converter), C15 (3rd) and C16 (1-2 gear). Each of these solenoids should read 11 - 15 OHMs, if not they are bad. Near the back of the engine block on the passenger side there are two larger square connectors going down to the transmission. One gray, one black. make sure these are connected and not come apart.

Wheeew. Glad we got that ironed out :shake: :shake:

All the preceding advice given is good, however, if you have a Select-trac (242) transfer case instead of the Command Trac (231) there is one slight variable. That is you can shift into 4X4 Hi on pavement in the same manner pointed out in the earlier threads with total disregard for road conditions. Dry, wet or slick conditions don't matter. If you have locking differential in it be careful doing that on slick conditions. Edited: Preceding thread beat me to it. :doh:

Maybe some info here on torque. http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/1989XJMJ.html

CW you nailed it. You gotta cut thru the HYPE & make a common sense choice based on your intended vehicle usage. Overkill is a waste of hard earned dollars. :cheers:

My 1 year old Samsung 42" flat screen just went on the blink. Won't turn on, won't turn off (unless I unplug it) . Switch just continusously blinks but screen won't light up. So, friends across town invited wife & I over for pre game prime rib dinner before he fires up his 50" tube. Taking some good refreshments along. Should be a fine time.

Search: Lake Pend Oreille or Sandpoint Idaho. It's a big lake with some nice camp sights. Or try Couer de Alene which is a few miles further South bt more civilized.

Have to drill some holes to mount them on an MJ. Not a good plan.

Do you think this is OEM bar? http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/1582747673.html

tjjeejeepcomanche, sent you a PM.

She said throttle body clip. I assume it would be some kinda clip to hold a breather cover coming from the air box to the top of the throttle body.

Lets see. Could it be delayed flue pump reverberations echoing off the walls of the fuel tank and escaping up the fuel lines to the injectors. No, that BS won't fly, so it's gotta be contraction of valves, springs, or some other metal parts in there. Sounds like my shower hot water pipes after I shut the water off in the morning on a cold day.

Jeep Axles in XJ/MJ (Just something more to ponder) 84 -90 ARE ON LAST LIST http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Sus ... Ratios.htm

Funny. :rotfl2: