Keyav8r

If you find two of them, let me know!

I've had trouble working with PB lately, Jim. Thought it was just me being technology challenged. Managed to get photos uploaded after five tries but can't copy the img file names to paste on CCF. Looks like every photo has the same file name.

Well, I took another look and saw that my wheel hub and rotor are one piece (2WD). Can't use it for a drill jig. Back to P&P for an axle or front hub with 5 x 4.5 BC. Could find some aluminum wheels with center caps but would need another set of new lug nuts. The stainless steel set I bought is for steel wheels

Sometimes it's hard to tell where the leak is coming from. If it appears to be from the rear of the engine, check the valve cover first. It's a lot easier to replace than the oil pan gasket and/or the rear main seal. Check the passenger side of the block for oil. If it's oily high it's probably from the valve cover gasket. If it's oily low, look at the distributor and the oil filter mount. If you eliminate those areas, then look at the oil pan and RMS. My 88 was leaking at the valve cover (at the back of the engine), at the oil filter mount and (probably) also at the distributor. I've replaced all of those gaskets & o-rings and am in the process of doing the RMS, pan gasket and timing cover seal (replacing timing chain and sprockets - a LOT of slack). I probably should have done these one at a time as that would have shown where the oil was coming from, but decided to do all of them and get it over with.

Should be "good" ground.

If you have power at the fuse block but none at the end of the pink wire, you have a break in the wire somewhere. Do you have a multi-meter (volts/amps/ohms) to check the wiring continuity? You'll either have to trace each wire, find and fix the breaks or replace with new wiring. If the lights don't work after you get power to them, you will have to check the wiring to the door jamb switches and the switches to make sure you have a path to ground (and a goog ground).

Yes, use a 3/32" drill. It may try to hang as you're drilling because of the parting line between the two halves of the cotter pin. Small bits like that are easy to break when you're working with an electric drill in close quarters. Go easy on the pressure and try not to flex the bit.

Another "Duh, why didn't I think of that" moment! Thanks for kicking my brain into gear, Don. My truck is up on jackstands now so i can just pull a disk brake rotor back off and make a drill jig using it for the bolt pattern.

Can you get to it with a file? File the ends of the cotter pin off flush with the body of the connection and see if you can get apart then. Can you post a picture of it?

PM me an address and I'll mail you $10 towards the cost. Anybody else want to chip in?

Apparently out west you can find Comanches sitting by the side of the road, running, no rust, etc. dirt cheap. Do you guys have any idea how much the rest of us envy you?

Akula - I appreciate the offer, but 2.5 hours would only get me to Eastern MS. Probably less costly to mail/ship just the axle flange(that's all I need) from KS than to buy the gas at 18 mpg. 87Warrior - thanks, that's all i need to make a drill jig. If you're close to a UPS location, i can send you an account number to ship it on. PM me with how much you want to cut it off and box it up.

Thanks, but shipping will probably cost as much as going to P&P and buying one. Thought i had a hub but turned out the BC was too small. Do the '01 XJ's have a4.5" BC?

If the two surfaces - oil pump and block - are flat (no bumps or nicks) and clean you may not need a gasket. If you think you need something, paint on a coat of high tack gasket shellac.

Check out MJHokie in the for sale section. 4.0 Renix - $150, in VA. Doesn't mention mileage.

OK, no broken axles out there. How about a hub from a 2WD MJ or XJ with 4.5 BC?

All it takes to clear grocery store bread and milk shelves in Birmingham is the weather guy saying "snow" on the air!

I was wondering if i was the only one who never read one of Mountainman's posts. That avatar is an eye magnet!

Block ground looks good? Did you take the cables/wires off and clean it? If the cable ends look bad, the rest of the cables may be bad also. The cables to the ground and to the starter on my truck were oil soaked so bad the insulation had peeled off (valve cover gasket leakage). Check the small cable from the battery positive to the relays on the inner fender too.

For someone who has been a member for a short time and is asking other members to help him find a Comanche, you should think twice about calling someone else a $#!& dick. Maybe Hornbrod could have been more diplomatic (doubtful) in his response but it was a dumb question. The whole point of having your location below your avatar is to tell other members where you are and avoid additional posts just for that information. You might need advice or information from other members at some point. Being an @$$ reduces your chances of getting help.

The bent up tailgate that came on my truck did not have one and neither does the replacement tailgate that's on it now.

I never could find anyone who could get the Dorman cable. Bought a NOS cable from Jackson &Sons Jeep Parts - Talladega, AL - (256) 362-7772. If 256 area code doesn't work, try 205, but pretty sure it's 256. I'd tell you how much I paid for it, but I'd have to dig through the whole file folder and then I'd realize how much money I've spent on the truck and get really PO'd at myself. It was reasonably priced and available. Also bought a NOS exhaust manifold from him for $125.

Anyone in the Birmingham, AL area have a broken axle with a 5 x 4.5 bolt pattern hub? I need to make a drill jig to adapt my Jeep wheel centers to some non-Jeep wheels. I tried to use a 2WD front hub but theyr'e a bear to get apart! Just need the flange with the studs.

I thought of that but he said the tick was more noticeable at low RPM. Seems like he would still hear an exhaust leak as the engine speed increased. But then, it wouldn't sound like a tick any more would it?

Don't know what the exhaust falling off has to do with it, but it sounds to me like your oil pump is wearing out. The ticking noise is probably a lifter (or lifters) that's not pumped full of oil. Lower RPM means the pump is turning slower and pumping less oil. The mystery engine/gas cleaner may have increased the oil's viscosity a little so that there wasn't as much "slip" in the pump and it pumped enough more oil to fill the lifters. Other possibility may be you've got particles and/or sludge in the engine that's broken loose and plugged oil passages. Did your oil pressure change when you put the mystery stuff in the engine? I'd drop the pan and check/replace the pump. Maybe drop a couple of the main bearing caps and see what the bearings look like. You didn't say how many miles on the truck. Could just be normal wear getting to the point of re-build time.