Biotex

Installed the new seal in the transmission and had the tranny reinstalled in time for the Daytona 500. I only need to add fluid and reinstall the console, and then hopefully I can put that leak to rest. After the race, I went back out and started on installing my Rubicon Express 4.4" lift front springs. I finished the driver side, but called it a day.Will finish up soon. I had a pair of Rough Country shock from my TJ that I used until something better comes along. They are almost brand new, but I'd rather have Bilsteins. For now, I'm using the old control arms, but have a brand new adjustable Rubicon Express trac bar that I picked up cheap. Once I get the front end finished, I will tackle the body work. I'm expecting to have Maura painted in about a Month.

I just bought a set of Rubicon Express front springs 4.5" for $75. I got them from Mudflaps dot com. The R.E. adjustable trac bar from them also for way cheaper than anyone else. I think it is free shipping also. Hard to beat that! I'd source out the parts seperately. You can save a ton on money that way. Like for the front shocks. If you add 4" lift, then just get some shocks that fit a TJ with 4" lift. There are tons of choices.

Look into the ingnition switch on top of the steering column up under the dash. When you turn the key, it slides a rod forwards which moves a set of contacts inside the ignition switch. That switch is held on with 2 bolts, and is adjustable. I've seen where the switch is either just bad, or out of adjustment. They are not very expensive, but not a lot of fun to replace.

When I replaced my slave on my YJ, I ended up throwing that black plastic thing away. It seems I remember reading somewhere that there is an automatic bleeder inline on those, but I bled mine the old way. When you reinstall the tranny, I suggest you make a set of alignment dowels and screw them into the back of the block at the 3:00 and 9:00 positions. I've seen people mess up their pilot bushings and break their input bearing retainers before because they get too agressive trying to stab the tranny back on. If you need a picture of what I'm saying, no problem, I can post one up.

Hey, no problem. If you talk to them, please update us as to if it is possible to cross the carrier break on a D30.

To be honest, I don't know if anyone makes the thick cut ring gear for a D30. I have gone 4.10 from 3.08 in a D44 before, using a thick cut ring gear, but never a D30. I'd give Randy's ring and pinion a call and ask the experts. If you can get the parts, they would know, and stock them. Spacers are not recommended. Edit: Here is a link to where they explain this: http://www.ringpinion.com/technicalhelp/ContentFrame.aspx?FilePath=~%2FContent%2FParts%2FCarriers%2F%2FDo_I_Really_Need_To_Buy_Another_Carrier~.inc

Like Jim said. Lower the rear of the tranny as much as you can without causing damage some where else. You should then be able to get at it from below with extensions and a swivel. You can wrap some tape around the swivel to help keep it from being too wobbly and slipping off.

Maybe you can swap the power latch relay with the fuel pump relay and see if that helps. Your fuel pump relay might be on its way out. If it were mine, I would figure out a way to hook up a voltmeter to the fuel pump so you can read the voltage while inside the cab. I'd verify full volts to pump when the problem happens. The idea being to eliminate components one at a time vs. throwing parts at it. I like to work in a linear fashion. Makes sense to start at the tank. These are the hardest to figure out, and I feel your pain. Once you know for a fact the pump is delivering full pressure at all times, then you will need to use your FI t.s. manual and go through it component by component. Sounds like you have been doing that. I honestly can't tell you if 1 volt below MAP specs will cause your problem. but look at it as a percent instead. Your about 20% off. Personally I don't think that is your problem, but could be wrong.

Instead of buying a whole carrier, another way is to purchase a thicker ring gear. This gets you around the carrier break without the extra expense. No strength is or cooling is compromised. When you purchase the new gear set, just specify you want the thicker ring gear.

Cap vent plugged?

I'm thinking I can make it out there in Sept. no problem. How much in advance will we need to make the reservations for camping with access to showers? I don't really want to install a locker, so I may just bring the Rubicon since it is set up already for crawling.

What kind of shape is the filter in? Possibly clogged? Also, don't rule out intermittent electrical issue.

I would if you will drop those parts off at my house on your way East.... :idea:

Made for the back of a TJ

I'm calling the cargo box a rack as in roof rack. Probably a confusing choice of words. I will lengthen , shorten, or otherwise modify them so that they will support the roof cargo box as necessary. Attaching them is the easy part for me. Deciding if it looks good is not so!

Yes, a good choice for added protection. Just be carefull that you don't add too much, as it is just as bad as too little I'v read.

Tyler, I finally got the time to study those springs recommended. That cam seems like a decent 4x4 cam, as in it is not too radical. The picture of the springs shows them with an inner spring, but it states that they are single outer spring, so that is good. Means it is easier for break in... The spring rate is 415# though. Mopar HP springs are something like 270#. Do some research, but in my opinion Competion Cams springs are too much for todays reduced ZPPD oils.

Yes, aren't the ones you linked to a higher spring pressure than stock? they appear to have an inner spring. That inner spring is the one I referred to that it is best to remove on cam break in. High spring pressures on flat tappet cams don't mix well. In the old days zinc and phosphates were added to oil to apply a harder surface coating to help reduce lobe wear. That ZDDP additive is getting harder and harder to come by unless you run expensive racing oils like Joe Gibbs. It is my opinion that you don't really need much higher than stock spring rates on these relatively low rpm engines. A good 3 angle valve job will suffice. Since that cam requires per the manufacturer a stiffer spring, I would call them and talk in person to a tech and ask him if you run the risk of premature wear. That cam may be one that is intended to just run a few races and then the engine would be rebuilt IDK. I didn't really look at the lift and duration specs on the cam you linked. If a cam has to have higher pressure springs, then perhaps, just saying perhaps, that cam is not right for your 4.0L. I'd talk to a knowledgeable engine builder in your area, and ask his opinion. I see a lot of guys buy way too much cam for their needs, and it is expensive to do it twice.

I'm going to disagree. It is not an interference engine. To my knowledge mostly only overhead cam engines which run a timing belt are interference. IE. if the belt breaks, you can destroy a piston and or valves. If the timing chain breaks on a 4.0L or realistically slips a few teeth, the valves would not hit a piston with a stock cam installed... In fact, if you install a high lift cam, you usually run dished pistons to clearance the valves. I have never seen a 4.0L any other way.

I was thinking of these: http://www.jcroffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=RCK I'll weld them to the rack.

If it were me, I wouldn't use springs with too much pressure. It's a fine line what is too much, but be advised that you will want to break the cam in without the inner springs installed. This means puttingthem back in after break-in, more to think about... Higher valve spring pressure help to keep the valves from "floating" at higher rpms. Again, you 4.0l just isn't the motor to be turning the kind of rpm's that the fancy aftermarket racing products are trying to goad you into believing that you have to have them. Higher valve spring pressures wear out the seats faster, and on a flat tappet cam, you have a greater chance of wiping out a lobe. If it were me, I wouldn't run those unless the cam manufacterer insists you have to. IIRC the 05 and 06 engines have higher spring pressures than earlier versions. Might want to research what that pressure is, and duplicate it.

Yeah, that's the plan once I get home. I'm thinking of getting the JCRoffroad roof clip mounts, but don't want to order them unless i'm sure it will look ok. Perhaps I can mount some light in the indented area to make it flow more if you know what I mean... i'm not sure if i'd want to leave the rack on all the time, just when going camping most likely.

I'm thinking Maura needs a roof rack. I knew one of my buddies had a cargo box that fits inside the back of a TJ and it was stored up in the attic. I asked him if it was for sell, and he just gave it to me. This is almost identical to what it looks like. I think it's a Kilby. So i'm wondering if I purchase some clips to mount it to the roof, would the shape look goofy?

Head porting and especially polishing is costly. Comes more into play in high rpm engines, so IMO a complete waste of money. Port matching is worthwile, but i'd stay away from polishing. You can actually lose efficiency from too much polishing. I haven't looked at the links you posted yet, but I will... Edit: Cam bearing get installed into the block, they come with a complete gasket set.

It is recommended to always get new u-bolts. With that said, if the old ones fit, I reuse them, and have never had a problem. I have always felt that the manufacturers use better quality parts than are available to the aftermarket. I have lost a lot of faith in steel quality these days. Too many imported pieces... Example: Just 3 days ago my buddy asked me to come help him get his truck home. He had a blown head gasket. He is a professional mechanic by trade, and had just rebuilt the 350 not even 250 miles ago. We get it to his shop, and he finds two head bolts broken off. He explained he torqued them with his high dollar snap on torque wrench to 65ft/lbs in a 3 step process etc.... He purchased those headbolts from JEGS. Were supposed to be stronger than stock. After a call to JEGS, they agreed to send him some ARP bolts. Where do you think those JEGS bolts were manufactured? I didn't ask, but have a suspicion they are not US steel. Had he reused the OEM headbolts, I'm pretty sure he'd have never had a problem. He's running only 25 to 35 more HP than stock. No way those bolts should have snapped unless they were defective...