Biotex

I would agree also.

Yes, touching the two wires together will bypass it. A better way is to ohm out the switch. You need to unplug the low pressure switch to test it. If you have sufficient pressure to close the contacts, then you will read continuity between the two wires. Are you sure the can and a half is enough to give you sufficient pressure to trip the switch?

If I hit the reply button, and start typing, sometimes it is undelined or striked thru by deafult, sometimes it is italics. This happens without me selecting these option. They are already set, and it is annoying. Anyone else?

Holy crap! Thank you all so much. I had no idea Maura made COTM. I got a pm asking to fill in some info on my truck, and just figured it was for a database or something. so I put it on the back shelf. Almost forgot to fill it out for about 3 or 4 days. Then i'm bored at work, and ran out of threads to peruse, so I came in here and Walah! What an honor. I have a set of 31's picked out and plan on using the turbine wheels all polished up with black highlights. The fender flares are in the works also. Going with the Napier V2's. I'm holding off on installing the front bumper untill the flares come in. Thanks again guys... Oh yeah, one more thing... rocker guards. I'd love to install a set, so i'm looking around for something that compliments, but not overkill.

Thought so, but wanted to ask. I do alot of solar work, and didn't think there were any geothermal sources in your area. We have alot here in West Texas, but too expensive to get it to the surface. The hotter the water, the more HP it takes to bring it up. Anyways, it's allways nice to have those pipes so at some point you can convert from gas to solar. Solar radiant floor heaters work best with more thermal mass than a stick build home has, thus alot of adobe homes here.

Seems to me the two bolts are a fine thread something like 1/4" or less maybe a #10 or #12 fine thread.. Have you looked on the inside under the dash to see if perhaps the bolts were threaded back into the holes they belong in? Might get lucky that whoever removed them, put them back for safe storage.

Nice! What do you mean geothermal heated floors? You have hot water circulating through the pipes under the concrete I assume, and it is heated from naturally occurring hot springs, or something else?

Funny you should mention the wire feed thing.... I change the wire on my new to me Miller about a year ago. Went with a .023", and I never could get the welds to look right. I thought it was me, so I kept trying and trying. Then, I had the lid oper so I could see the chart inside, and noticed the writing on the roller wheel said .030. The light bulb went off, and I flipped the wheel 180° and you'd think I could weld like I actually knew how. Just amazing how much difference a steady feed of wire makes!

For the sticky tape on my comanche badges, I used my wire wheel on the bench grinder. Took the tape right off fast and easy. Might be worth looking into.

I sure liked the old days better when you were allowed to just use arm signals. Then the younger generation came along and shortened it to just using a single finger.

I was referring to this comment about being disappointed and not as excited. Sorry for what? HO stands for Highly Overrated.

So, $50 off huh! I suppose that isn't too bad of a deal.

I put myself through college on a shooting scholarship. Now I teach the 4-H kids rifle marksmanship. We shoot model 1913 super match Anshutz .22's I competed with a mdel 54 match rifle which looked very similar to the 1913 above. We use palm rests, shooting jackets, ankle rolls, slings, gloves, etc... It is an NRA 3 position indoor rules competition the same as the current world record holders go by. Our range is outdoors, but all are competion is on an indoor range, so the kids get a treat when they shoot for the first time inside. Are targes are A36 NRA paper targets set to 50ft. The bullseye is the size of a pin head, literally. Possible score of 100 for each position of prone, kneeling, and off-hand. There are three classes the kids shoot in. junior, intermediate, and senior depending only on age. I don't compete anymore, but I do hone my skills occasionally. ;)

You can purchase pre flared brake lines. You can also get it so that it can be bent by hand. The problem is length. You may have an extra foot or so, and would reguire you to loop it to take up the extra unneeded tube. Take the old one off, measure it, and see if you gan get a new one withing a few inches longer. You can pre-bend it also, matching it to the old one. Another thing I did once, was to get one too long, and then cut it to length. This way you only have to make one double flare.

90 is still renix (non HO) Sorry...

Are you going to trim the front fenders to match the new bumper? Still thinking about the flat fender flares?

Ask them to send you one anyway, at a discounted price and remove the rust yourself.

Could you be running lean under load? Possibly a faulty sensor causing the pulse width of the injectors to be narrow? Knock sensor, CTS, MAP, EGR circuit, etc... Just trying to think of something a bit more obscure since you seem to have the other possibilities covered...

You better get used to being a shiny kind of man!!! Them boots gotta be Purdy and shiny for the corps. :thumbsup: I think I will go with the look as in the last picture I posted. Wasn't sure at first, but now I am. I still will have a couple of chrome emblems and such, so it will fit in. Unless someone knows where to get black vinyl letters that match all the MJ emblems and badges...

I will check out that video. Thanks. I had totally forgotten about you doing that. Thanks for the reminder. So you think it would be enough of an improvement to warrant the expense? What I like about just a booster and MC upgrade is that when I eventually swap axles, the booster will already be there and not money wasted on the axles. I am trying to stay away from spending anything on the axles so that when I swap them, it's not lost. For $300 I can get an 8.8 installed and set up, but then I would have to swap in matching gears up front, so i'm not ready for that yet. The JY swap is probably cheap enough, but I have to travel a total of 425 mile to the nearest one, and that adds alot to the cost. I will look around on ebay though, so thanks for the input. :thumbsup:

Might help if you cut the hole to the size of an already available plug size. They make some large plus for the CJ floor pans, but i'll bet you can get some generic ones cheaper.

Yes, with 3.08's. I plan on an 8.8 in the future, but have a full plate right now. Might be several months out. I teach the 4-H kids rifle marksmanship, and we have a small enclosed trailer that I would like to take out to the range. I feel the stock brakes are marginal if pulling any kind of trailer, so am just looking for something I can do to get me by without feeling i'm beeing unsafe to others.

So just the booster, not the M.C.?

Is edge trim needed for a proper install? If so, where do I get it so that it is compatable with your flares? The price is good, and I understand trying to keep down costs, but sometimes it is very helpful for a potential buyer to be able to read over an install guide before purchase so I know what I'm getting into. I'm wanting to pull the trigger on a set, but since I have never installed aftermarket flares of any kind before, I need to get a feel for what modifications are involved before hand. Any way to find this stuff out?

My feelings on the vent connection is so you can pump gas at a faster rate with it. The vent on the sender isn't large enough diameter to do that is it? Also, is it a vent or a return?