Lee21490

The grounds all look fine, They're clean & Not corroded at all.

So i've been getting Code 41 An open or shorted condition detected in the generator field control circuit. Every now and then when i start up my 'manche. And i've started to notice the alt. doesn't kick in & charge until 20~ seconds after i start the engine. But once it does, It works fine And reads a solid 14v. What would cause it not to start charging for the first half a minute of starting? I'm really not an electrical guy :/ 95 4.0L in a 86 'manche

I have my TC hooked up to a toggle switch. Lets see if i can ruin it, I'll be famous!

I did both upper & lower wj's in my lift. Stock CA mounts you have to cut off a little tab, Or the uppers will bind a little. But with my CA drop brackets, It was just straight bolt up Also did my UCA axle bushing, That was a PITA

They do sell SOA kits that are just bolt on. They use the old spring perch to center/hold the new perch on. Not sure how well it actually works. But it looks good to me. Could always just pay a shop $50~ to weld perches on the axle for you.

I have a set of turbines on mine, I freaking hate them. They're ugly imo, And just get filled with mud & get unbalanced easily.

Basically its shorting out somehere, And causing power to back-feed through the turn signal switch, causing all sorts of @#$% ups. Had to deal with this the other week on mine. PO Had half-assed a trailer harness, & left $#!& bare in a few spots.

Could be the multi-function switch (Turn signal switch) Or just a crossed wire somewhere. My guess is a crossed wire, If you jump power straight to the rear it backfeeds through the switch & turns on your dash blinker & Makes everything work wonky.

#3 to me sounds like a Loose or worn out trac-bar. Could either be the bushing end on the passenger side, The ball joint end at the driver side, OR The bracket that mounts to the frame for the trac-Bar Jump under & Give a good yank on it, & see how tight the bracket is. Could also be causing some steering issues in #1, I know mine did when the bracket was loose.

Mines done this for as long as i've owned it. Never really payed it much attention because i've never been able to actually pin-point it. Never really thought the control arms would be making the noise, I'll have to give them a check Update; My pop turned out to be the Upper control arm bushing, The axle side one. Pressed it out of the axle, Put in a new one & Pop went away.

I have over 40,000 posts in a different forum :rotfl2: I Try not to flood CC with useless spam though :)

That is Alexia's lift and I linked it above get er done, lets have a lookDue to other projects this will be a driveway job. It will have to warm up a bit. It was 22 today Ah, Tbh i just glanced through the list & didnt read much pass it. Was in a hurry >_<

http://www.nonamestudios.com/experimentalinsanity.com/vehicle/resources/mj-lift.html Here's a good write up on everything for a 5.5 lift. Few people, myself included, use this setup.

I love my putco / Hella h4 combo Even got the 90/100w bulbs :D Havent been flashed while driving yet, WHich is good.

i suppose i don't need a drop pitman arm seeing its not mentioned Naw, Works fine without it.

I know there's a 105amp Cs-130 Couldnt find much on a cs144 http://www.cherokeeforum.com/f51/zj-136a-alternator-into-4-0-renix-xj-109847/ Check this out, 136 amps.

My biggest debate lately has been, 12.5 or 10.5 wide 33's :/

God i hated mine. First thing i did was tear out all the vacuum lines, Put a holley carb on it & bypassed 90% of the vacuum jungle that is the 2.8. Did this just start? Did you change anything recently?

Since the driveshaft is at an angle, It actually doesnt take much for 4-5" of lift. When i SOA'd mine, It only pulled about an inch maybe 1.25 inches out of the trans. You should be able to SOA with a stock driveshaft/SY with a longbed.

Ran to the parts store the other day, And saw a nice red Shortbed Eliminator 4.0l Parked in the parking lot. I'm so envious of those shortbeds, My longbed catches everything in the mountain :(

Is the charcoal canister hooked up properly? The gas tank builds pressure & Vents into the charc can. Then gets recycled back into the intake. If its not hooked up/Broken/Hooked up improperly it can make the engine bay/interior smell like gas. Should be on the back passenger side, Against the firewall.

Figured it out. Lights were screwed up because the P/O Had setup trailer lights (By splicing into the rear lights) And just left bare wires under the truck. Water/mud caused them to short & backfeed through the multi-function switch. Cut it off & it works fine now.

Yea, Thinking its the pump. Its done this minorly in the past year~, But got really bad today up in the mountain. The fluid looks clean, and is never low so i don't think it'd be the rad. No bends/crimps that i can see.

Sorry should have added more detail. This is with the aux electric fan on, And the clutch on the mechanical fan was replaced a few months back. Thermostat was also replaced And radiator was flushed out the best i could with a garden hose. also does it at idle while coasting

Mk So couple of weird problems here. Noticed that everytime i let my truck idle within 10-30 seconds it climbs from just to the left of 210, to half way between 210 & the red mark If i give it 2-3k rpm it drops down almost instantly... Would this be a water pump? Faulty sensor/gauge? Idk Other thing is, Randomly my tail lights blew a fuse. Replaced it, now whenever i hit my brakes it turns on my Dash gauge lights. And if i turn on my headlights, it turns on my brake lights in the rear & makes the left blinker stay on the whole time, Right one works fine. Would that be the multi-function switch? '86 manche With 95 4.0L & Column/dash Any ideas would be appreciated