Lee21490

Anyone use one? I keep cracking my *frame* where the control arm bracket mounts. https://ironman4x4fab.com/products/xj-track-bar-cross-brace Was glancing at that one, not sire if it would work with my iron rock offroad double sheer track bar or not. Thought id ask here and get a few opinions.

Yea, the bracket. /e Turns out the frame/unibody isnt really that bad just a slight crack in one spot. Gonna weld it & replace the bracket with a stock one i guess, Since i havent found any heavy duty ones. Thanks.

I saw those, But those look like the motor side mounts.. And I need frame side.

Trying to find a tougher version of the Drivers side frame motor mount, Somehow mine snapped in half & Took part of the frame with it... Anyone know of any? My Google skills are failing me right now... https://parts.doverdodgeparts.com/a/Jeep_1995_Cherokee-SE-Sport-Utility-40L-Power-Tech-6-cylinder-MT-4WD/_51507_6400365/ENGINE--TRANS-MOUNTING-INLINE-6-CYLINDER/WB4067.html #3 on that diagram. Guess its a bracket out of a 95' cherokee Still can't find a heavier duty version of it.

Threw a new carb on it, Since the carter was all messed up from the PO. The vacuum lines were COMPLETELY wrong, No PCV valve, Vacuum hooked straight to the intake breather valve, etc. Massive vacuum leaks EVERYWHERE, Spent 5~ hours redoing everything.. And now it runs damn near new. Starts up within 2 seconds of cranking, even when cold. I'll make a new build thread for it soon, with pics.

Been quite awhile since I posted... Haven't really done much on the truck lately, Been running pretty good as is. Month ago~ My NP231 transfercase decided to randomly grenade itself while i was driving the truck, Took awhile to find a replacement.. Ended up with one out of a grand cherokee, Which was a PITA since it had some weird sleeve in the input shaft, that kept it from going more than 70% on the AW4.. Had to completely take it apart to punch the sleeve out. But now the truck is back up and running again, Also decided to replace the stock 4wd shifter linkage that i've had nothing but problems with, for a boostwerks np231 HD linkage. Seems pretty stout, But kinda pain to shift in/out of 4wd low with it. Also picked this up today : Hopefully after i fix it up, it will become my tow-rig for my 'manche '75 J10 d44 front/rear with front disc brakes v8 360 some half custom tow hitch light rust, that i need to clean up 136,000 miles

Sweet, Thanks guys. So ended up picking it up tonight, Ran like a champ other than the carb is a bit screwy atm. Nothing a good rebuild won't solve. Has the 4 speed, With 2wd/4wd/4wdlow, Thankfully it wasnt the fulltime 4wd variant, and front disc brakes Already has a pretty good looking hitch installed Plan on doing a tuneup, Replacing the intake manifold gasket, Front shocks, belts & rebuild the carb for now Also plan on cleaning up the underbody of rust & painting it. Truck came from utah, So it has a bit more rust than typical around here, But still not bad at all. There's not a single rust spot on the entire bed, Just a couple small holes around a couple fenders

Thankfully rust isn't that big of an issue where I'm at. The pictures i've seen so far look pretty clean at least. It's a manual tranny, Not sure which.

So tomorrow I'll be looking at a '75 J10 with a 360 in it, Honestly don't really know much about them... Any tips on what i should be looking for? What to watch out for? The listing says it runs, But needs some carb work, 160k miles, $1000, needs it gone asap as he's moving. My goal, Is to use it for a tow rig / Basic needs truck. Don't plan on lifting it or anything crazy, Probably 4 wheel disc upgrade, etc. Any pointers would be appreciated.

The connector is on the turn signal switch. It has the harness to control the turn signal/hazards directly plugged into it.

Is that a Tikka?

Went up there for the first time a week~ ago. Got a cool pic while i was up there. that's awesome!! Haven't seen you around town much lately. Yea, Havent been driving the truck too much lately. Had a few steering issues / random small quirky things pop up.. Just got it all fixed & she drives straight again lol Oh he was super creepin on us, He was hovering over us for a solid 20 minutes doing circles really close to us. There's literally nothing else in that area... Weird thing is, I ran the #'s on the tail of the heli & it matches a heli that crashed in 2014 near the space needle @ seattle (looks exactly the same too)

Cobalts are pretty legit, Buddy has one with 330hp+, He's owned 3-4 of them now :rotf: The interior is super cheaply made though..

Went up there for the first time a week~ ago. Got a cool pic while i was up there.

Canon makes a great 50mm 1.8 for $100~ Took this picture with the canon 50mm 1.8, But was at like f/10

Camera pic lol I just got a Cannon Rebel T5 DSLR + 18-50mm & 60-300mm or w/e lenses with it. Ended up getting a Canon 50mm f/1.8 & a 60mm 2:1 macro lens. Entire thing cost me $500 Havent really had much time to learn it yet, current pics on it are too bad to post >_<

I got a SWR meter you can borrow to tune your antenna, Just shoot me a text/call.

Better off getting a standard CB radio, + firestick combo.

So last night someone stole my Smittybilt x20 wireless remote (Forgot i left the window down) After searching online for awhile & not finding a replacement, I called smittybilt. They want an insane $205 for a REMOTE. Highway robbery. Brother-inlaw lost a wireless remote for his winch (Forget the brand), Was a simple $40 replacement. So now I'm either stuck with a $500 paperweight, Or i Pay a $205 ransom to get it working again. :fs1: Might try to make a wired replacement for it. /end rant

The elusive hovering Comanche!

A mix of tape measure and feel. Its adjusted so theres a little gap between the rod and the master.

I'm still at a loss... Brake pedal still goes 90% to the floor before i start getting pressure. Ran another quart of brake fluid through it, No difference. Tried bleeding it with the front jacked up & then the rear jacked up, No difference. Inspected all the calipers / brake lines / Pads, Replaced the front drivers caliper because the rubber boot was shot, No difference. Only thing i havent touched yet is the new Willwood prop valve, I Don't see how that could possibly cause this issue though?

Never hurts to ask, But yea i have bench bled the master. Twice with the old one, Then once when i swapped in the new one.

Same with mine, and I had the load sensing valve and bypass in place. In the end I put about half a gallon of fluid through it before the mush went away. If you can get a pressure bleeder or a reverse bleeder it definitely makes a huge difference. I've put 3/4 of a gallon through it now, Still no brakes. Double checked it, The rod was correct length. Ended up swapping the master for a new one (Lifetime warranty, Why not?) Still same symptoms. I don't see any leaks, The fluid level never goes down.. Thinking of Re-Doing the 3 lines I replaced.. Maybe they're not airtight at the fittings?

Pulled it, Everything looks fine on it. And check the rod adjustment while you're at it. No idea how to even adjust that, It was never touched & was working previously. I noticed that the line from the master -> Prop valve is slightly leaking at the fitting to the prop valve.