Lee21490

T'd into the rubber line.

It's been working for over a year fine. The Sender is hooked into the return line from the trans cooler (Aftermarket) & is grounded to a bolt near the sender. Same with the Gauge. I've re-wired the ground already thinking that was the issue, DIdnt help.

So I've been running this Trans temp gauge for the last 1.5+ Years ish. http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-5757-Transmission-Temperature/dp/B0002M722A In the last month, it would randomly read 250+ & then after awhile pop back down to the normal temp range. Last couple days its been stuck 250+ It seems like when i turn on the key, It STARTS at 250F Like it was 100f(Start of the gauge) & Then as the temps go up, it moves BEYOND 250. I've triple checked all the wires running to the sender & Gauge now, Re-did the ground on the sender & the gauge. Still not working properly. Gauges aren't really my forte, So if someone could point me in the right direction I'd really appreciate it. Possible bad sender? Hope its not a bad gauge :/

On my old truck you used to have to unplug the vacuum lines, Count to five & Plug them back in. To get out of 4wd, Repeat. lol

Coil was like 2" from touching, If it werent for the coil retainers, I could have just pulled it out lol Hit one small trail, Then went home before it got dark. Had to adjust the crossmember, Had it 1" too low for my driveline angle. So far only downside i've noticed on the road, is extra road noise because of no rubber bushings in the links. Not that it really matters though.

Final touch up welds! Drove it home today :) Tomorrow after work while its still light out, I'm going to go flex it & take pics. The arm isnt about to hit the frame there btw, Thats just a bad angle pic lol

Issue after issue.. The Heavy Duty Upper control arm brace/bracket on the axle side wasnt cut properly, So it wouldnt slip over the Control arm mount. Had to cut it out, Not a big issue but still annoying when you spend $1k for a kit..... I have to either re-route my brake/gas lines or figure out some sort of bump stop, As the upper control arm will smash into them otherwise :( Going back out to the shop in an hour~ from now to hopefully finish it up.

'manche has a fat @$$ & doesnt fit all the way in the shop :( Tranny Crossmember/Control arm mounts Arms are heavy as hell & Come with a beautiful powdercoat.

Sweet xD

Did you use the 15% coupon?

Got it around 7pm Tuesday. I remember reading that you have to do a 'small' amount of cutting to fit the 3link, Since the XJ & MJ frame is slightly different. Much to my shock, there's a LOT of differences lol I think I'm going to have to hammer massage in part of my floor board to have clearance for the upper control arm, Really hope the lowers have enough up travel. Got the pass. Side old control arms/drop brackets removed & The new arm installed. Still need to cut off the lower control arm mount on the frame, And weld on the HD Uper control arm axle mount. Hopefully i'll be able to drive it home tomorrow. Should flex a bit more, Noticed about 2-3~ inches of shock travel unused, As the current WJ Control arms are bottoming out on the axle. There's a big ol dent in one of the lower control arms, where its been beating on the axle :/

10w40 year round Pretty mild winter/summers in Washington. Maybe when i build a 4.7 i'll care enough to run full synthetic/etc.

Just got an email They're doing a 15% off 'flash sale' through the weekend. Coupon Code: SAVE15NOW

Don't taze me bro.

Have you used the lighter before? I've seen some people put really low amp fuses where they don't belong lol

My first mj was an 86 5 speed 2.8l with a full bench. It didnt come with a shift console though, ended up screwing down a matt and a shift boot to make it look nice-er

I've done 85+ On 33's. Coming back from the mountain, Downhill lol

I got my set off ebay for like 99 for all 4, a few years back. Still running strong.

Ordered the Clayton 3-link upgrade. They're on the ball over there, Ordered it at like 11pm last night, It shipped at 6:xx am.

they probably say this because they don't want people cutting up the floors to run the kit to get the proper amount of link separation. Yea, Read a few threads where people ran 4.5-5.5 lift with the kit, Ended up bruising the floor a little is all. Bumpstops will stop that i guess. Well after searching a ton & Find a few people on CC that use the setup, I havent really seen any downsides of the kit. Get paid in a few days here, I'll be ordering it then.

I could just bumpstop if needed too. Going to order the Clayton 3-link next week, Unless i find a better kit between then.

3 Link kits need a minimum of 6.5" of lift due to floor clearance! Ah @#$%. /e i guess it used to say 5.5" minimum. and they just recently changed the specs. Slightly bruises the floor with 5.5", Not worried. Think I'm going to get the 3-link.

Yea, I did some more reading after posting this & Read into 'unloading' pretty much scared me away from the radius style arms. Leaning towards the 3-link now. Didnt notice until i read the install guide for the 3-link, that you can get a 'hd brace' for the axle side upper control arm mount, That makes me feel a lot more comfortable with running just one upper.

Well I'm sure this has been beaten into the ground a lot, But from googling I keep seeing threads with 50% of people saying one thing, and 50% saying the other 50% are liars. So to the question.. I'm looking into the Clayton long arm setups atm. I'm very undecided on their '4 link' radius arm setup, Or the true '3 link' setup. So far the only downside i've seen for the radius arms, is it can cause the axle try to twist itself? Is this an actual problem for a 6.5" lift? Or is it just a theoretical issue with radius arms? The 3link looks nice, But a hell of a lot more fab involved. And i don't really like the idea of running just one upper control arm. Would love some opinions / Things i should read up on / etc. Thanks guys.

Seem to be a lot of people prowling for unlocked vehicles around xmas... Someone jacked a couple things from my truck too the other day. When you get back, Hit me up. We need to go wheeling!