Lee21490

That's the way I was taught and always done it. Well since it did not work for the OP...maybe he needs to try a different approach... While your googleing speed bleeder...Google Einsteins definition of insanity .... . :MJ 1: . I've tried just about everything at this point. Even picked up a vacuum bleeder from the parts store yesterday, Still didnt work. I've done the Crack bleeder -> Press pedal down -> Close bleeder method The Pump -> Hold -> Crack bleeder -> Close bleeder -> Repeat method Even tried letting it gravity bleed... Starting to think maybe it might be the master? Brake pedal is starting to make a squeaking noise, not sure what from either.

So long story short, I replaced the brake distribution block the other day, To a Willwood prop valve. Everything worked fine before, But now i can't for the life of me get the brakes to bleed. The extra bypass line to the rear was removed ages ago. I've tried the reg pump 3-5 times, open bleeder, close, repeat. Also tried using a Harbor freight Vaccuum bleeder, Which I didn't have much luck with. Brake pedal feels great with the engine off, As soon as i start the engine it falls to the floor. I have enough brakes to stop the truck, But barely. Master was replaced within the last 2~ years, Front/Rear brakes/calipers/etc were replaced this year. I've checked & double checked all connections for leaks, Doesn't appear to be any. Not sure whats going on..

I've known a few people with optimas, I don't think any of them like theirs.. Seem to have issues. Read something about they were REALLY good a bunch of years back, But they changed factories or something & went downhill. NorthStar AGM is what i have in mine, Got it down the road from my house same price as the internet (Plus tax)

Yesterday my brake distribution block decided in only needed one working brake... Thankfully i was only a few blocks from my house. Ordered a Willwood adjustable block, Should be here today.

The problem running short arms without the drop bracket, Is the bend in the aftermarket arms doesnt change the angle of the Control arms. So it still ends up in the same ride as stock short arms. However the curve will allow it to flex a little more than straight arms. I was surprised how much of a difference in ride quality i got going from Drop brackets with GC arms -> Long arms. Clayton 3-Link https://www.claytonoffroad.com/jeep_cherokee_xj_upgrade_kits Unfortunately that link brings you to the radius arm kit, You have to select the 3-link in the selector below. You have to cut off the lower Control arm mounts to clear the new long arm setup.

Been awhile since I've posted. Haven't really done any work on the 'manche lately, Took it out for the first time in awhile yesterday & Somehow managed to blow the cap off of my rear shock on the gravel road up the mt. Put in a CB radio a few weeks back.

I have a durango steering box + WJ PS pump. Works pretty well. First thing i noticed it a loss of PS power after the swap, So i got the WJ pump. I got full steering on my truck, But just barely. If i align my steering wheel straight, I'd loose full turning :doh:

Same, I mounted my 8.8 just like stock, with it infront of the axle. Havent hit them on anything.

:rotf: One day You'll break down in the middle of nowhere & those sockets will save your @$$. Just consider it putting them in a safe spot for the future haha

Because it was reading 1 on the other settings.

The Gauge also reads right around 210~ If i unplug the sensor wire. Not sure if thats correct either. Maybe I'm reading this meter wrong. Its set to 20k ohm, as the rest just say 1. So is that 1.5k or just 1.5

Well i finally got around to pulling the sensor & Testing it. I get 1.5ohms at room temp, And it was steadily going down to 1.2 ohms with i touched it to the electric stove on low. I'm not sure what Ohms its supposed to start at, But seems to be working properly? Maybe its the gauge? It seems to work properly just starts at 250f :/

It's been a crazy day lol Got bored -> Went to the casino -> Won $600 at poker -> On the way out played a slot machine for a few minutes -> Won another $600~ -> Left before i blew it -> Bought booze -> While drinking i started looking over AR-10's I've bookmarked -> Ended up talking myself into buying one -> Bought an AR-10 Armalite Def10B, Bugbuster 3-9x Scope & 500 rnds of .308 -> Well there goes my winnings lol Hope i don't wake up in the morning & kick myself :/

Be careful removing the rear bumper bolts, They like to break... Well at least mine did :/

They usually have two power lines, One constant & another that only receives power when the key is turned on. Have you checked the second power line?

Yea, Eventually. Originally when i got the 33's anything larger would have most likely broken my stock dana30/35 lol Now i just need to figure out if i want to do 35's, or 37's.

damn, i was close lol 91and up = 1310 series u-joints.

Costco had a great sale around Christmas time. 3x LED flashlights, 1000, 500, 250 lumen. like $25 i think it was after the discount Put the 1k lumen in my truck 500 in my car and 250 in a drawer near the door

The older d30's came with small, weak U-Joints. The 92+? Came with the same size U-Joint as the D44's. also the G2 on quadratec is Low pinion, iirc

I think of this every time i see a massive light bar lol

I ended up just doing a Chromolly d30 setup myself. However if you do go d44... This is the one to get http://www.currieenterprises.com/CESTORE/Product596.aspx?id=4235 The currie is even high pinion.

:rotf: Thou shalt covet tailgates

Will do! Thanks for the linked guide.

Hose clamp & a wire. Ghetto as $#!&, But it works lol