Jeep Driver

Wow! Take care of yourself.

The aftermarkets have a single plunger, the Mopar has a dual plunger. The aftermarkets will fail just as the OP has experienced, doesn't matter if it's pre-bled or not. Somewhere I have pics of the two. Also, it helps to bend the shaft about 5-6 degrees downward where it meets the pin on the pedal, helps the shaft to go in and out of the master parallel to the bore of the master.

https://www.ebay.com/p/Clutch-Master-Cylinder-Mopar-52104110-fits-1994-Jeep-Cherokee/83206824

Spend the money.

Post pics of what you have.,

Having gone through a few fans myself..........it's Spal or nothing.

I assume you are using a stock bell? stock slave and master? Is there a metal plate between the slave and bell? If so remove the plate. Is there a nylon end to the slave shaft? a ball the goes into the fork? Is your fork pivot ball in good condition? What TOB are you using? Anything other than a Mopar master and slave totally sucks.......FWIW. And just curious, why did you go Novak for a stock trans?

As viewed in the pic- Left lug- 4g wire directly to alt. Right lug- 6g-4g lug, six 12g wires soldered to lug, each wire replaced the four fused links and connects directly to the six wires that were connected to the fuse links that were mounted to the starter relay. Center lug- 4g wire directly to the starter relay. From the starter relay- one 4g wire to the starter, non-fused. One 4g wire to after market fuse panel for accessories. Also, remaining but unused- one 175amp Megafuse that used to protect the alt, will be used in the future to protect 4g wire to two new amplifires, splitter will be fused before amps.

Learn to drive. Serous about that.

Thank you.

https://uscreations.net/index.html

That XJ has no business in a scrap yard.

You state, assuming that I understand what you stated, it's sucking the gas, correct? Yep, electrical connections and sitting for years.................worse thing you can do is let a truck/car sit for years without attention, condensation in the tank, corrosion, critters eating wires.......time kills more than miles do. If it's running rich.......O2 or MAP and tube to MAP...........and........well........everything else to consider.

I got rid of my fused links and went to a battery mounted breaker. Upon ignition the truck is more responsive, fuel pump jumps to full pressure instantly and engine starts quicker. May be anecdotal or may be that 32 year old links have become resistors. Just a thought and I'm not suggesting that you do what I did. And of course consider that every connection in between including the grounds are corroded.

Or a bad O2.

You'll clean those one time, you'll never clean aluminum wheels again.

The bed is independent of the cab. Everything flexes.

Assuming you have the serpentine belt. He can use any pump, self contained reservoir or remote, does not matter, on up through 2004 WJ. What is crucial to the Renix era 2.5 is the pulley, it is different from the 4.0. Whether Swampy takes it or not..........make sure that pulley gets to someone who needs it. Hard to find.

I didn't comment though I wanted to............. $300 for 4 wheels start to finish is dirt cheap.

Let's keep this simple. TBI, ECU will prime fuel pump for 2-3 seconds when you turn the key to on or ignition. After it primes it will shut the pump off. ECU, when ECU senses that the engine is turning over, signal from CPS, it will run the pump and send a pulse signal to the injector and allow spark. CPS, if no signal to ECU, ECU will shut down pump and end pulse signal to injector and end spark. If your injector is not pulsating- no signal from CPS to ECU. Or you have a wiring issue or you have a bad ECU. It's that simple. What ECU did you get to replace the original and why did you replace it?

No.

Yes, you'll have a TPS or throttle position sensor.