Jeep Driver

Mine did the exact same thing, it was the axle U-joint.

You be our guinea pig and let us know, I'm in the market for carpet soon too.

Correct, and take a 11mm socket. Hit a JY.

The short answer is no. Sorry.

That just flat out sucks! Sorry to hear it. Yeah, I'd be pissed.

What fly wheel are you using?

I want that AMC 20!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If the OP were local to me, I'd have him come over and swap out the 31s off mine to his rear, let him drive around for a hour and see how it does. If he is otherwise happy with the truck, handles well, brakes well....etc... Why go through the expense of swapping axles when all he may have to do is choose a different tire size? Consider all........bearing, seals, brakes, axle u-joints, steering links, control arms, axle u-bolts, e-brake cables....etc........all the parts you will be dealing with or effecting.......drive shaft length and so on.......(he has yet to state what rear axle he has and what he may swap to). Pick up a set of used wheels with 31s for $300 and see how you like it first.

The lower gears are numerically higher. That negates your statement, as the lower the gear, the more torque transferred to the tires, the better the pulling power You make it sound like we are telling him to run 2.72 gears on a stock set of tires. That would put him at 4th gear being his last useful gear somewhere cerca 90mph, and his starting gear seeming like starting in 3rd gear with stock tires and gears. Rethink your understanding of gear ratios Suppose you were alone and you had to move a 1000lbs safe. You had a 2' bar and a 6' bar to use as levers. The 2' bar would require more strength, more energy, more EFFORT, the 6' bar would require less effort than the 2' bar to do the same amount of work. Same with gearing. The 2.72 gear would require more work from the engine to move the truck the same distance as a 4.11 gear would, the consequence is that you run out of RPMs earlier, as is his complaint. He has a 2.5 which has less energy or available effort to begin with, the 4.56 gear allows his engine to work less, if he were pulling a 3000lbs trailer up a hill he'd have more torque available to do the work.......ie.........longer lever.

Hope he never pulls a trailer, never drives up hill, never carries any weight. But then........you guys don't drive them as trucks........apparently.

What is this rust everyone keeps talking about? With the gate closed the eyes of the cable point upward. Water works it's way down the cable to the loop at the bottom of the folded cable........or the center of the cable.......and rust eats the cable in two. I replaced the cables on my Ranger three times in 14 years.

Check the vacuum like to the MAP sensor. Check your other vacuum lines.

2.5 with 4.11 and 31s Swap axles with ya.........? 31s will solve your problems and you can keep your stock stance.

No. But I would. Spray on insulation is the way of future. Virtually every home I work on now has it. Thicker is not more...... I just looked at this stuff......looks good......but is not a substitute for carpet pad/backing. Also, it's a waterborne product, make certain your metal is clean.......clean........clean........or use a solvent based metal primer first.

I'll bet he did nothing to stabilize the frame rails before he went whacking out the cross member. How are you going to straighten out the frame now?

This.

Put the pan back on with 4 bolts, do not leave uncovered.

Why don't you build a custom cross member?

http://denver.craigslist.org/ctd/4429321792.html Is it this one?

$150 in parts if you do it yourself. $450-550 if a shop does it. Beware- coolant in the oil could have caused bearing failure........or the head could be cracked.......or block............you will not know until you take it apart. Condition and price.......

All things mechanical can fail, that said...... Rarely do oil pumps fail, of all the parts in your engine that can fail, the pump should be that last to go. I'm not suggesting that you cannot handle the replacement, but I do suggest you find a buddy with some experience to help you out. If you have a complete loss of oil pressure......you may need someone else's opinion as to why.

Find TDC and make sure the distributor is indexed to #1 There are instructions here on setting up the oil pump so the distributor will slide in correctly.......IIRC......cruiser has the link.\ Turn nothing once you pull your distributor.......NOTHING! until have it back in. You can prime the pump using an old long screw driver, cut the handle off and chuck in up in a drill........you can do so after you have installed it and the pan back on with oil in the sump.......then install your distributor.

The correct U bolt may have a contact patch of say 2" as the arch of the bolt wraps around the tube. A larger bolt may have a contact patch of 1/4" and will eventually allow the axle tube to move. You are not going to force a 9/16 bolt to conform to the tube........just ain't gonna happen.

If you know anyone or if you have one would you give me the width and height of the tail light bezel? the overall size? Thanks I'm thinking of making a fill panel and using these-