Jeep Driver

Also, I would suspect your brake light wiring to be grounding out, not enough to blow a fuse but just enough for the sensitive electronics of the radio to sense a change in current or ground back-feeding. Check the grounds at the tail lights.

This..... Or poor grounding throughout. Did you go through all the grounds.......upgrade grounds........new cables.......clean all connections..etc.....? If all else fails, I would run new wires to the fuse block and run a new ground to the radio. Also, could be your antenna is not grounded.

Mine does the same thing. Cable is new and turns freely. Must be an aging speedo.

Got me VC yesterday off this heap of rust. I've heard them rusting in two, now I've seen it. Image Not Found Image Not Found

Originally he stated here that he had an AX5 and was looking for a bell, I suggested all 94+ parts with his bell.

Just two weeks ago I re-clocked my Wrangler AX5. The one thing you will need to be aware of........the shifter housing is different on some Wranglers. Image Not Found

The 86 is completely different than that 94+, is it not? I suggest he look to the 94 and up, parts are cheaper and readily available.

My 88, front or rear..........it does not matter......how ever it is configured. Image Not Found

This is the accurate schematic. Keep it simple, Bobby. Two ports on the TB. Lower goes to the VC, which is supposed to be at the rear of the VC. Upper goes to the MAP. Port on intake manifold goes to EGR solenoid and is there T'd off to the canister at the bumper. The second line off this port goes to the air cleaner plenum, from there to the air box (I believe, as my air box is gone). If your idles poorly..........I would check the EGR........the next thing I would suspect is the MAP........when map is unplugged or bad it will not idle.

Thanks guys. After I posted this thread, I read my than I ever wanted to know about AC systems. I ordered a new compressor, expansion valve, and accumulator. I will flush the system before installing new parts. A local shop quoted me $20 labor to vacuum down and recharge if I bring the freon........can't beat that. The order is supposed to be here tomorrow.......I report back when I get it done. I won't forget about the oil this time. And oh....yeah.......I took one of the old compressors apart, very interesting. The one that was in my truck was bone dry of oil, no wonder it knocked. The one the is now in my truck, the one that locked up, I suspect was bad from the beginning. I don't think I would ever was my time with a PnP compressor, as this one was.

No, you build up the metal with weld, then resurface.

Your pics are not helpful. Here, the shinny portion, where the pads ride. Over time the pads will make indentions in the slides, if so, it will need to be resurfaced as this pic shows. Otherwise the pad will not release from the rotor.

If I were closer.........don't cut it up.......would love to have one of those. I did not know you were in surgery, explains your absence. Recover well.

Moog/Federal suck @$$, this in less than two years. Spicer. Image Not Found

Make sure the vacuum port is not clogged. Image Not Found

MAP sensor is my guess.

You a member over there? Why can I not register?

No, I did not add oil. How would have have added oil? Oil or no oil..........45 seconds to lock.....it was used, not new, I assumed it already had oil running through it.

The PO gave me another compressor when I bought the truck because the one that was in it was bad, it actually worked but made a knocking sound. So, today I finally got around to swapping it out, made it all purdy and everything. It ran for about 45 seconds and then locked up, I was in the process of recharging the freon when it locked. I cannot imagine I did anything to it in the process of cleaning it up or installing it. I did swap the clutch as the one on the replacement was burned. The replacement spun freely by hand. I want to make sure I don't burn up a new compressor and waste $200. Any thoughts? Thanks Image Not Found

Check to see if your vacuum port is clogged, mine was. Image Not Found

CPS would be my guess.

You loosen that sludge and it makes it way to the oil pump........you won't have to worry about a new gasket. Take it off and clean it.

At the large port on the manifold, after cutting off the big connector I just stuck in the rubber elbow. Image Not Found

A MUST check.... As you can see, there is oil on top of my valve cover, the vacuum line port on the throttle body was completely clogged. I used a screw to thread into the hardened muck and pulled it out. This has been like this for a long time, I'm sure it was clogged long before I got the truck, I just assumed it was working. Image Not Found

Over the weekend I will get some hard line and some vacuum connectors and reroute the essential lines correctly. But for now I got rid of the unsightly and useless vacuum harness connectors. Image Not Found