87MJTIM

you would have to put the auto trans and tcase in the MJ. Since the MJ in set for 2wd, it will not take the tcase to go 4wd. Or, you will need an AX15 from a 4wd jeep. To go 4wd, you will need to shorten the rear drive axle to fit for the tcase. The XJ shaft will not fit the MJ. I believe (correct me if Iam wrong) the front axle will bolt in to the MJ. You can use the front drive shaft from the XJ on the MJ. They are the same length.

Depends on the engine in each one. If the 90 (Renix) is a 2.5 and the '00 (HO) is a 4.0, then the trans may not fit. Also, are they both autos or manuals. Can you give us more info on both Jeeps?

It is not overheating. As a matter of fact, it runs too cold - on the line between 100 and 210. It is sluggish up hills. On long climbs, I've had to downshift to 3rd. But it has not overheated.

Crude...but effective. I was hoping for something less drastic.

Yeah, the first part of my question is kind of rhetorical. How about the second part: How do I test the flow rate? If I have to replace parts, which part should I change first?

Okay, my question will take some background first. My MJ just got back on the road after a year restoration. The engine was completely rebuilt. Ever since, the engine has felt like it did not have the power it once did. (I know the 4.0 is not a racer.) It just felt like it was not firing correctly. I took it to my mechanic. He checked the distributor position and timing. Everything was correct. When I excellerate in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear, the engine hesitates and chugs as the RPM get above 2000. I don't experience it in 4th and 5th, but I don't take it up that high, either. On Tuesday this week (high of 10*), I took it in for the emissions testing. The first attempted errored out. The tech cleaned his equipment and tried again. Same result on the test: "Error Low Flow". That meant the computer was not registering enough gases to calculate a test result. They had me pull up to the next testing station. Different machine; same results. (See definition of Insanity.) I did not pass the emissions test, but I did not fail, either. I got a 5 month extension to fix the problem. However, they could not tell what the problem was?!?!? :huh???: A tech asked me if the exhaust may be clogged. That's when a light went off in my head. Several years ago, I had a clogged cat. The truck felt like I was pulling a battleship behind me. I could not get up to even 25 mph with the engine chugging. Are my symtoms from a partially clogged exhaust system? How can I test for clogs?

I found this write up on Jeepforum.com and printed it out. The picture connections have disappeared, unfortunately. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f19/yj-trans-swap-ba-10-5-ax-15-write-up-312203/ Search on Comancheclub for similar discussions. This is a very common issue with all jeeps from that time.

If your doors were not originally with the "sport" mirrors, then they may not have the internal bracing for those mirrors. There is an internal metal brace that runs top to botton inside the door. This is to provide additional support from wind against the mirror. You could install those mirrors, but over time, the sheet metal may fatigue and bend.

I had read on another forum that the "pilot bearing" and "pilot bushing" were the same item just different names. If I am incorrect, please enlighten me.

Yes to the master and slave cylinders from the 98. But the fly wheel, pressure plate and clutch disks remain for the 89. The 89 is Renix and the 98 is HO. The flywheels are diff. The HO will not work on the Renix.

You will need the pilot bushing (bearing) for a 74 CJ5 w/ 304ci engine. The throw out bearing is completely diff from 89 to 98. The 89 had the combined slave/TO bearing. The 98 has a separate slave (external) and the throw out bearing.

Does the system have fluid? If not, fill and bleed. If that does fix it, then you may need to drop the trans to get to everything. You may need to replace the dreaded internal slave cylinder. Mine is on its 5th for the 26 yrs. I've owned it. Assuming you have the original BA 10/5, I might suggest looking for an AX15 from 94+ Jeep. These have the external slave cylinder. I found one on Craigslist someone was parting out for $350. However, that's not all you will need. The Tcase will need to be switched to 23 splines(if you have 2wd, ignore this), you will need the trans cross member and a slave cylinder.

I am refering to the 88 electric diagrams. I could be a C214 connector. This is for the ingnition control module. But the wire color does not match. my 2¢

Follow up/Conclusion The part came via UPS on Monday 12/23. I just installed it today. It seems to be working. The quality looks just like the old one I had to pull the steering wheel and loosen the column bolt to run the wire down column. Everything is back together. (Now I will see if that fixes my cruise controll)

¢ :bowdown:

I am going to keep the old parts. Sorry.

The top tach looks like the one I just swapped out of my '87. The lower one is the one I just put in (along with all the other gauges.) I don't know the year, however.

Man, are you showing your age. I bet you know the diff between Fred & Ethal and Fred & Wilma. ;)

http://comancheclub.com/topic/12083-electrical-manual/ Ask and you will receive.

Welcome to the addiction. Here is a link to the 88 wiring. Download it to your computer and refer to it often. http://comancheclub.com/topic/12083-electrical-manual/ As for the squeal, check the harmonic balancer. Mine had a nasty squeal. I tried all the same things you have tried. My mechanic diagnosed the HB and replaced it. Squeal gone. Good luck.

Thanks for the responce. The tcase is from a 90 XJ. It has the proper spline count. The 90 was equipped from Jeep with an AX15, so that issue is Moot. As for the flywheel, I have read on CC that the FW stays with the engine (Renix), since it controls the CPS. So, that issue is Moot. I am not swapping a manual to auto. So none of the electronics need to change (expect the back up light.) My question is: do I need to swap the clutch pressure plate and clutch disk. I already said I need to get a TO bearing and pilot bushing.

Ok, I currently have the BA10/5 in an 87. I have sitting my garage an AX15 from a 98 XJ and a NP231 from a 90 XJ. I also have the master/slave/hydraulic-line/shift fork for the AX15. I will need the release bearing and pilot bushing (from a 74 CJ304). I just had a new pressure plate/clutch installed on the BA10. Will these work with the AX 15 or will I have to replace them?

It will involve pulling the steering wheel. I know that. I read on Jeepforum where other have purchased from them. Most did not say anything bad. (One complained that they would not give a refund after a part that broke. It was a part of the axels that broke. They said that they could not verify the installation was done properly.) I will give them a try. Thanks.

That's what I want to avoid. Unfortunately, it hard to even find non C R A P.

Has anyone ever bought parts from here before? www.am-autoparts.com I found them while looking for a turn signal lever for my MJ. This is the part I found http://www.am-autoparts.com/1987/Jeep/Comanche/cruise-control-switches-and-levers/AM-42770069/486048.html The paddle that activates the washer broke. The plastic casing just spins around. It wouldn't be a problem on dry roads. But with melting snow and road salts, it makes seeing a problem. I found similar items at Morris and Teamcherokee for $75 to $80. This place has if for $20. Is it too good to be true?