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87MJTIM

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Everything posted by 87MJTIM

  1. I am looking for a/c hoses. I have the part numbers from the parts catalog, but I cannot find the exact part on-line. I have an '87, 4.0 w/ factory a/c. The three hoses are 1) evap to compressor #56002724, 2) compress to condenser #56001662 and 3) condenser to receiver #56002189. All these part no. are listed for the 87. The catalog lists different part no for the 88/89 to 90. (The evap to compressor lists the 87 and 88 as the same number.) I have looked online at Rockauto, Morris Jeep and Quadratec. Quad Morris is the only one that list all three hoses, but only for the 88/89 to 90 years. (Even their descriptions list them for later model XJs.) Will the differnt hoses fit the 87 system? Are there other sourses for these parts you may know? These are the last pieces for the restoration.
  2. AFAIK it has had 75/90. I changed it for the first time in Sept '12. I am the original owner and it has 281000. However, the trans had been dropped several times to replace the slave cyl. I don't know it the mechanics drained and filled the trans at that time. It is still not on the road yet. So, I cannot comment on performance.
  3. I got my trans worked on earlier this year and the mechanic told me to use Penzoil Synchromesh. So I did.
  4. There is a plastic clip with a copper tabs connected to the park brake. When the brake is pushed down, the copper tabs separate causing the electic contact to flow to the idiot light. When the brake is off (up) the copper tabs ground out and the light is off. Check the park brake for the plastic part. Mine is light blue. Make sure the power wire is connected. Clean between the copper tabs. Grease can get on them and weaken the contacts. If that doesn't fix it, you can try three other methods: 1. cover the light with elctrical tape. 2. remove the offending light from the dash 3. or wait for the bulb to burn out. ;)
  5. Your welcome. For my bill, you can send me a case of that beer. :brows:
  6. It did "chirp" It was pretty consistant, though. Sometimes it would not be chirping then suddenly it would start.
  7. If you have a 2.5/4 cyl, then you have either an AX4 (4 spd) or an AX5 (5 spd). If you have the 4.0/6 cyl, then would have the BA10/5 (5 spd). This assumes that the trans have not been changed. Either way, you have the internal slave cylinder. That will require dropping the trans if it is the slave. To check if it is the master, look above the clutch pedal for moisture on the dust cap of the master cyl. Rub you fingers on the top of the fuse block and check for moisture. If either is wet, then change the master cyl. It is an easy change. Then bleed the system.
  8. What yr is your MJ? What trans do you have? Is there alot of fluid coming out from the bell housing? Probably the slave. Is fluid leaking on to your fuse block? Probably master.
  9. Well, unfortunately, I am in the 10th month of a 5 month restoration. :hmm: The MJ is not back yet. The carpet is not in yet. The color is a perfect match. However, it needs to be trimmed to size and needs the various openning cut (trans and t-case, seat bracket posts, etc.) The ebay link had a higher price then Stock Interiors. Do some due diligence on pricing and additional options. My 2 cents.
  10. I got my carpet from www.stockinteriors.com Mine is the brown/tan interior, also. The color for the carpet is "buckskin."
  11. Why isn't the Chevy Volt on the list? I had read that Ford sold more Edsils than Chevy sold Volts in the same time period. Your tax dollars at work!
  12. I would say it is the head light switch. All of your issues (except reverse) run through that. Your turn signal and brake lights work independent of the light swicth. The reverse lights are activated by a switch on the trans. That is probably the issue there.
  13. :doh: Sorry 'bout that, Chief. I guess I should RTF header.
  14. What yr? There is the complete wiring diagram for an 88 on the forum somewhere. Other years? IDK. I bought a hard copy for the 87.
  15. I picked one up from the stealership. I had to request the boot for a TJ. If you tell them an MJ, they will tell you it is not available.
  16. I had a terrible squeal with mine for a long time. Replaced the belt several time and the water pump, but did not fix the squeal. Turns out it was the harmonic balancer. Now, no squeal. $0.02
  17. There is a wealth of knowledge on this forum. Just ask and you shall receive. Sorry you had to loose a friend to inherit the MJ. Once you pick up the Pick Up, let us know more about it: engine, trans, model/options, etc.
  18. If you have a smart phone, you can down load a running or bicycling app that has built in gps. The app's are free to inexpensive. You just set it on you dash and drive.
  19. Does have a D44 make it a metric ton? or was there more to making it a MT? The reason is my '87 has "off road" package with a D44. I just swapped the rear leafs for the General Spring w/ military wrap. I still have the old leafs (one leaf is broken).
  20. I understand not have the resources. I cannot weld anything, but I know how to find people/businesses that do that. Receiver hitches for MJ are harder to find than needles in haystacks. It just seems to me that if you cannot buy it or find it, then (have someone) make it from pieces lying around. My 2 cents.
  21. Are we beating a dead horse here? This topic has been covered long before. http://comancheclub.com/topic/26626-receiver-hitch/?hl=receiver+hitch Drawings have been made. Take them to a metal shop and have two plates made. Then, go to a JY and pull a receiver from a wide base truck/van. Cut the bar to the proper length for the MJ and weld the two plates you had made on it. (or, am I missing something?)
  22. Sounds like the molding goes back on. Thanks everyone. More pics when it is all back together.
  23. It is a DD. As I said, I am leaning toward getting the molding. The samples they had were for Chevy S10 and full size Chevy trucks. From 20' away you could not tell the diff. The pin stripping was done. This picture was before that. More pics:
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