87MJTIM

You will need to re-gear the front axel. If the XJ is 3.07 rear, then the front is also. Your D44 is 3.55.

Delete - should have read subject line.

The pan got stripped very early in the truck's life. For years I just kept using and replacing off the shelf repair plugs. Finally got tired of this. I bought a new pan and replaced the whole thing. My 2¢, anything other than a replacement pan is just delaying the inevitable.

Did you have a complete loss of all electric and power - everything shuts off, then comes back on? If so, the CPS may be going bad. 1st hand experience.

Jeep show at the Frederick Fairgrounds Sunday August 17, 10 to 5. Find info at www.thegreatfrederickfair.com look under calendar.

OK, this link isnt working anymore. I did go to it orginally. The event is Sunday, August 17, 10 to 5. Find it throgh www.thegreatfrederickfair.com look under calendar.

I saw that also. I did not have the cash at the time and had to walk away. It was good to see so many MJ and CC members. FYI - there is a Jeep show at the Frederick County (MD) fairgrounds August 17. http://midatlanticjeepfestival.com/

Nope. Not yet. Havent found a re-chromer.

Wife says "Not for sale." Technically, it is still hers.

Hope this helps! http://comancheclub.com/topic/12163-acronyms/ (July 2014 MJOM)

Contects to the top of the trans bell housing. The wire comes up the back of the engine at the valve cover. Check out Cruiser54's Renix Tips in the DIY section, #7 on his list. There is a diagram. http://comancheclub.com/topic/36382-cruisers-renix-tips/

Does it crank, but not fire? I would say CPS.

Mileage is 272000+ (although after a speedo swap, the dial reads 172000. I reset replacement to exactly 100k dif.)

The green cap? Not at first. I got the OEM cap on it. I drove it NAPA to get the green cap. I will swap it later when the engine cools off. I will keep the old "new" cap in my parts/junk bin.

I replaced the cap. It seems to be operating at the "new" normal temp. i had the rad replaced about 10 yrs ago.

I found that part no. after ordering 703-2396, the OEM cap, from NAPA. I will order the above and use it. Thanks

Thanks. i was thinking that the cap may have popped earlier and last Friday was just the result of that.

I had not added to the reservoir since I got it back on the road last fall. I had not checked the level, either. I have not seen any leaks and no smoke from the exhaust. I do remember the temp gauge reading close to 210 when it was "so much younger than today." But for years it has been reading lower. The low reading continued even after t-stat changes (195) and a gauge cluster swap. It was unusual for it to rise that fast, then drop back down to the lower temp. I will just change the cap and see what happens.

87 Renix 4.0, closed system. My engine was rebuilt last year and has only a few thousand mile so far. I believe all small parts were replaced. On Friday, I loaded up the MJ for a weekend camp trip. Nothing heavy, just tent, sleeping bags, cooler, etc. and a passenger. This is probably the most weight it has carried since the rebuild. The outside temp was mild - 70s. I started out and looked down at the cluster. The temp gauge usually stops at the first line. Very seldom does it rise above this. Well, I was watching it continue past that and go above 210. I had only driven 3 miles. Then the temp dropped down to "normal," just above the first line. I stopped at a McD's for coffee. I looked under the hood and noticed antifreeze around the reservoir bottle. The cap was loose and would no longer screw down tight. i turned back and tranferred all my gear into a Suburban. I have ordered a new cap from NAPA. For the big question: Should I replace the T-stat also? What may have caused the sudden, rapid rise, and rapid drop?

"As far as the drain plug, is it a crush washer that needs changing when it's removed?" IDK :dunno:

There is a washer on the drain plug. The filler plug did not have one (at least, mine doesnt). Parts catelog has the following: Filler, Plug #8350 0623 Gasket, Plug #8350 0513

I just checked mine. My first try couldnt get it to turn. After a shot of PB Blaster, I used a 15/16 wrench (with a helper wrench for leverage), it came off. Lefty Loosy.

Napa has the switch. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Headlight-Dimmer-Switch/_/R-ECHDS150_0193376456 I got one a few yrs ago for about $25. Try www.rockauto.com

Code #GSC 571

Grounding issue with the light switch. Change the switch. Inexpensive part.