87MJTIM

Mileage is 272000+ (although after a speedo swap, the dial reads 172000. I reset replacement to exactly 100k dif.)

The green cap? Not at first. I got the OEM cap on it. I drove it NAPA to get the green cap. I will swap it later when the engine cools off. I will keep the old "new" cap in my parts/junk bin.

I replaced the cap. It seems to be operating at the "new" normal temp. i had the rad replaced about 10 yrs ago.

I found that part no. after ordering 703-2396, the OEM cap, from NAPA. I will order the above and use it. Thanks

Thanks. i was thinking that the cap may have popped earlier and last Friday was just the result of that.

I had not added to the reservoir since I got it back on the road last fall. I had not checked the level, either. I have not seen any leaks and no smoke from the exhaust. I do remember the temp gauge reading close to 210 when it was "so much younger than today." But for years it has been reading lower. The low reading continued even after t-stat changes (195) and a gauge cluster swap. It was unusual for it to rise that fast, then drop back down to the lower temp. I will just change the cap and see what happens.

87 Renix 4.0, closed system. My engine was rebuilt last year and has only a few thousand mile so far. I believe all small parts were replaced. On Friday, I loaded up the MJ for a weekend camp trip. Nothing heavy, just tent, sleeping bags, cooler, etc. and a passenger. This is probably the most weight it has carried since the rebuild. The outside temp was mild - 70s. I started out and looked down at the cluster. The temp gauge usually stops at the first line. Very seldom does it rise above this. Well, I was watching it continue past that and go above 210. I had only driven 3 miles. Then the temp dropped down to "normal," just above the first line. I stopped at a McD's for coffee. I looked under the hood and noticed antifreeze around the reservoir bottle. The cap was loose and would no longer screw down tight. i turned back and tranferred all my gear into a Suburban. I have ordered a new cap from NAPA. For the big question: Should I replace the T-stat also? What may have caused the sudden, rapid rise, and rapid drop?

"As far as the drain plug, is it a crush washer that needs changing when it's removed?" IDK :dunno:

There is a washer on the drain plug. The filler plug did not have one (at least, mine doesnt). Parts catelog has the following: Filler, Plug #8350 0623 Gasket, Plug #8350 0513

I just checked mine. My first try couldnt get it to turn. After a shot of PB Blaster, I used a 15/16 wrench (with a helper wrench for leverage), it came off. Lefty Loosy.

Napa has the switch. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Headlight-Dimmer-Switch/_/R-ECHDS150_0193376456 I got one a few yrs ago for about $25. Try www.rockauto.com

Code #GSC 571

Grounding issue with the light switch. Change the switch. Inexpensive part.

I hunted on ebay and craigslist for an external bellhousing. Paid $175 including the fork and a master/line/slave combo. Had to buy a front retainer cover (Novak). Swapped the bellhousing and I am ready to install. (Anyone need/want the bellhousing and retainer cover for the internal?)

I put the Gen Spr on mine. I gave the rear about 3" of lift. I put 2" spacers up front. I now has a rake that I want to correct with new spings in the future.

I had an IRS auditor in my office this week. (Auditing a client, not me.) As we were leaving, he saw me walking toward my truck. He asked if it was mine. I said, "Yes." He said it looks good. I thanked him but did not say much else. I did not want to inciminate my client.

There is a fine line between admiring and stalking.

Ride a bicycle!

Please clarify. Did the new not come with one or is not equiped to fit? If it just did come with one, purchase one from one of the stores at www.

This link has the 88 electrical FSM. It is very close to the 87. Download it and save it. http://comancheclub.com/topic/12083-electrical-manual/

Just like Oddball from Kelley's Heros (movie with Clint Eastwood and Donald Sutherland), you can get out of trouble faster then you got in to it!

1. The right side of our brains control the left side of our bodies and the left side of the brain controls the right side of our bodies. 2. An automatic requires the right foot to control the gas and brake. The right hand rests on top of the steering wheel. 3. Your left foot rests on the floor. Your left hand hangs out the window. Conclusion: you only need half a brain to drive an automatic. :yes: :brows: ;) PS: I tried driving an auto with my left foot on the brake. NOT a good idea. The brake pedal does not go all the way to the floor!

Caster: Left 5.7 right 5.0 Camber: L 0.3 R -0.2 Toe: L 0 R 0

Does this look correct? I got the alignment fixed after 2" pucks were put on. The shop put these spacers on. The rear has General Springs that gave it a 3" lift. Image Not Found Image Not Found Since this was done, I have been experiencing shaking around 50 to 60 mph. When it starts to shake, I easy off the gas. and the shake goes away.

I was getting into my Comanche in a parking lot today. A woman walking by stopped and complimented my Comanche. She said "I learned to drive on one of these. I loved it. My sister drove it in to a tree, and the tree fell over.... except mine was the hatchback model." :hmm: :hmm: :doh: I didn't tell her that her's was a Cherokee. I thanked her and went on my way.