DirtyComanche

All 91-95 HO map sensors are firewall mounted and can be used on a Renix. The 96 only MAP is TB mounted but has the same outputs and the earlier MAPs. The 97's and up MAPs are all TB mounted and have different outputs than the earlier MAPS. Okay, thanks for the correction, I thought all the TB mounted ones were the same. Silly for them to change them.

The Edlebrock head doesn't flow any better than a ported stock H.O.head according to posts on the Jeepstrokers site. Or even as well as the old HESCO aluminum head.(I have one in my stash of old parts). I would have said the Hesco head, but they're not exactly available. IMHO the head is worth it for the heat dissipation and detonation avoidance. But once the 300HP number is thrown out there, there isn't a cheap way to do it. Save that he could just file the ring gap right out, buy a progressive nitrous kit, and spray n' pray...

It's really only a full rebuild if you open it up, for the time it takes to get that far replacing all the wear parts is only what makes sense. The rebuild kit isn't terribly costly from what I recall, but people want an arm and a leg to do it. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4723188&cc=1181720&jsn=375 Not sure if there's better kits out there or not. That one is listed for an A340, but it shooooooooooould be correct.

Picture of the new pulley setup vs old?

IMHO, you'll want the Edlebrock head. I'd get a later block for convenience. I'd run the coil pack ignition. No idea how achievable 300HP is N/A, probably not easy short of building a big stroker and I'm not sure what reliability is going to be like...

Early HO and Renix ones are the same. Along with GM TBI applications. The later HO ones are different in how they mount (directly to the throttle body) but still have the same logic/output. I'm not Mopar-or-Nocar, so I'd get an ACDelco one... Pretty certain the brand new spare I have on the shelf is ACDelco.

What's the goals of the engine? Boost? Big power?

The Renix intake fits the HO head better than the HO intake fits the Renix head... Neither is optimal. The Renix exhaust header fits the HO head fine, or it should, as you can get a stock HO header to fit on a Renix head with no issues. The exhaust ports are in the same location. I'd get the later HO intake and adapt the Renix controls to it. Should be good for a few ponies, between giving you a large throttle body and better flowing intake manifold.

This is a good idea but I plan on having A/C and it has cruise so along with the overflow bottle and fuse box there really isn't space there. I understand. I don't have A/C. None of my wiring is anywhere near where the factory put it (plus that's a Renix), and my overflow bottle is actually where the factory should have put it (on the driver's side). I doubt you could get my tray to work with A/C though, to say it is tight is an understatement.

I'd put it where the coolant reservoir is on a Renix instead. Image Not Found Image Not Found This is a single battery setup, but you get the point... It's void space, might as well fill it, and it's on the correct side for shorter cables.

I just used a grinder to grind down the intake manifold enough to fit. And as I said before, that won't fix an issue with the tubes fouling on the intake runners. The Renix intake has the runners much lower on it than either of the HO style intakes. If the header tubes have too gentle of a radius out of the exhaust ports they will hit the intake runners, and a grinder isn't going to fix that (not in a way that works). A stock HO header, no big deal, do a little clearance work on the flanges if need be. But why run a stock header? You're referring to the late late models with the swooped up intake manifolds that take that header. Correct. That won't work. But. get one for a 91 to 96 and you're fine. The header I just posted will fit an early HO intake (or later, would fit the later one better) but can't possibly fit a Renix intake.

I haven't, but it's been done. Same problems apply as with the earlier HO intake, plus the usual problems for going to that intake. I don't know if it's a terribly worthwhile mod without reworking the intake ports on the head or going to a HO head (would be the route I would go if it came up).

I built my own downpipe. 2.5" cheap 409 stainless. Image Not Found Image Not Found I never took a picture of it installed for whatever reason, but it's very tight, and that's with running an axle that offsets the pinion about 2" farther left than stock...

I just used a grinder to grind down the intake manifold enough to fit. And as I said before, that won't fix an issue with the tubes fouling on the intake runners. The Renix intake has the runners much lower on it than either of the HO style intakes. If the header tubes have too gentle of a radius out of the exhaust ports they will hit the intake runners, and a grinder isn't going to fix that (not in a way that works). A stock HO header, no big deal, do a little clearance work on the flanges if need be. But why run a stock header?

easy to address. I have photos. I meant certain aftermarket ones. The tubes foul on the intake runners.

The newer knuckles are stronger.

It's an availability thing. Not all HO headers will clear the Renix intake manifold. I found that out the hard way.

A 91 up trans still isn't a bolt in, even if you swap the tcase or the tcase input gear. They used a different TV cable on the later ones, and the actual TV itself is different. Wiring also changed some at some point. It can be made to work, but don't expect it to just be a bolt in and go. And as always, be sure you retain your Renix specific flexplate.

Yup, the orings will dry out if they've been sitting for a long time. Get some new ones on there, use a dab of clean oil, WD-40, or something like that to lube them on install with the new injectors. You might want to change the one on the fuel pressure regulator at the same time, it's the same oring as the injectors themselves.

The first ones are Ford 710 (or 700, as I found), the second are the Volvo 746. The 746 are said to be better, but nobody has a straight answer as to why. Either is an upgrade. If you're seeing smoke it likely is fuel being vapourized. It's probably just the orings that are shot, but the Renix injectors are a two-piece design and are known to split and leak. Yes, you can burn your truck down with this stuff...

Moog K3128 is a pair of them. Mevotech MK3128 is a pair. AC Delco 45G8088 is a single. Personally I'd drill your arms out and go to the larger bolt, as long as they have the meat on them to allow you to do that. Up to you though. I'm betting those are JK bushings you got from Rusty's though.

On that note, if I order a clutch I will probably go with this Luk: http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4694283&cc=1179996&jsn=500and the matching Luk Flywheel http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4697202&cc=1179996&jsn=540 It appears to me that it comes with a new pilot bearing, but I can't find anywhere on the interweb that specifically says it does. Looks like it's right there in the picture though. Anyone know for sure? I'm going to just order the master and line for now. They will be there about the time I get back from work. If that doesn't work (which it probably won't, it doesn't seem like the issue) I will proceed to ordering the entire clutch, I won't likely have time to do it right away anyways. Interestingly enough, the master cylinder and line that is installed looks different from any of the ones listed/pictured on Rockauto. :dunno:

On an auto the two connectors that look similar to that one near the dipstick are the NSS and TCU connectors......... That's what I think they are too... Might have an auto harness swapped in (perhaps with an engine swap), or the truck was originally an auto.

Yeah, might as well order one too. That's a good point.

You bought JK bushings, most likely. They're sized for a 12mm bolt. I'll look the correct moog part number up for you later today if I get a chance.