DirtyComanche

Me too. If I'm ever nearby when they're doing a launch/landing I will do what I can to be there. That's a marvel of engineering unfolding in front of your eyes.

I collect derelict Jeeps.

Sometimes you just have to walk away for a day or two. That's what I did when my clutch slave blew up shortly after changing the clutch.

Here's a cool video of the boosters landing. If you have good speakers I suggest turning it up (unless there's people/animals around you might scare)

Yeah, it's all done through the state owned insurance ponzi scheme known as ICBC (Insurance Corporation of British Columbia, I believe). You can transfer a vehicle into your name without insurance, but in order to get registration you must buy insurance. The system isn't totally broken, but it certainly could be better. It does have advantages in that you typically deal with authorized agents rather than ICBC themselves, so I can go to almost any insurance broker if I just want to do a transfer of title, cancellation, or whatever. If you actually have to deal with ICBC it's normally fairly terrible; that said I did have a VERY helpful person there walk me through not only applying for, but actually receiving, a title for the 66 Gladiator I bought out of a farmer's field. The massive downside is that it is set tiered rates and since they essentially have a monopoly that have no interest in offering tailored products. I'd love to be able to have three vehicles on the road for $1000/year. It burns me a lot because I've owned my JK for 6 or 7 years now and put 45000Km on it in that time, plus handfuls of thousands of Kms on other vehicles I have insured at the time, basically I'm on the road (in my own vehicles) less than the average person by a large margin yet because my hobby is owning crappy vehicles I get to pay a lot more for it.

I just got the renewal notice for my JK too, it's $1256, but that has $2500 deductible comprehensive and collision on it rather than straight liability. Still, it just makes me shake my head. I hear mixed stories about Alberta, but at least there is options and it seems longer term residents are able to find deals. Here you're stuck dealing with ICBC no matter what, as you have to buy at least the basic liability package through them even if you have another insurer for other options. ICBC has no interest in doing shared policies or even really giving me much of a discount for being a pleasure use only driver (I do not drive to work anymore, ever), so it's pretty much an all around losing situation for me. I'd have another vehicle insured but I can't stomach paying $3500+/year in vehicle insurance.

I have a glasspack on my XJ. It was the cheapest stainless steel muffler that Summits sells that would actually fit. The brand is reassuringly called Pypes. IMHO it's not awesome on a daily just because it's too loud anyways. And it doesn't matter if it's a I4, V8, W16, R32, whatever, it's just going to be loud and annoying. However, I don't think it sounds bad, it's just loud. I could attempt to capture the sound if somebody was interested, since I'm going to have to drive the thing out of the shop shortly, and it will be a full throttle assault due to the snow. My plow truck (400 SBC with some basic bolt on stuff, long tube headers, intake manifold, propane, etc) used to have dual 2.5" with glasspacks, it was so loud it was undriveable for any period of time at speeds and people generally assumed I didn't have any sort of muffler. I replaced them with some cheap welded chamber mufflers (Raptors) and it improved it a lot, to the point at least I'm not setting off car alarms or hating it. That said it probably could have been made a lot better by putting some bends after the glasspacks and throwing decent downturns on it. My old MJ (4L) had a Thrush Red Hot with the stack, it was okay because the sound is largely directed upwards, and adding a 90* bend a bunch more tube doesn't hurt. If you want maximum annoyance factor I highly recommend whistle tips.

I don't believe it has much purpose, they were just proving the new rocket (which more or less was a success). Typically when doing this inexpensive objects are fired into space as there's a good chance it isn't going to work out, often just concrete or a steel weight. Ol' Musky knew he could get two birds stoned at once firing a Tesla out there, as they needed some dead weight and the whole thing came off as an excellent PR stunt for both SpaceX and Telsa Motors. Plus he earned major points with the geeks (potential employees) by playing Space Oddity and including an epic Douglas Adams reference on the car's display.

I forgot about those guys, I think they're a couple flappy heads too. Definitely good for a laugh.

Looks like about 6 hours or 6 beer to fix that. But I'm not near you so I can't help. I've had Renix harnesses all apart on the bench/floor before, so they really don't bother me.

Stop looking at it and start shoveling, boys.

I spend a lot of time talking to natives, so his speech is fairly easy for me to follow, but I could see it being quite the struggle for some people.

Pretty darn classic, if I do say so. Too bad they were unable to land the core.

The Renix intake manifold won't fit worth a damn. Everything else is easily dealt with. Make sure you don't get a regular O331 head. It will crack.

It's to lock the bolt into the thinner arm from the factory shifter and space the rod end off of it. The hardware arrangement isn't critical, it was just whatever worked well at the time, but locking another nut on is generally a more rigid setup than just spacing it with washers. The clearance is much tighter at the tcase side, so you would not be able to do the same thing, but it also isn't needed. Exactly how somebody else would arrange things would depend on what rod ends they were able to source, those ones are actually super expensive if you had to buy them (they came off a crashed helicopter), but functionally similar ones can be had for only a few dollars from a decent hardware store (or ebay/Amazon/whatever).

The Peugeot case is split down the length of it, with a seam roughly running along the bottom and another at the top. The AX-15 splits around the middle in several sections. Post a couple pictures for 100% verification. If you're going to convert to 4wd there's no need to worry about it, you won't be reusing it.

The registration renewal is a flat fee here, doesn't matter what you're registering. I think it's $38 or something. To renew the reg and insurance this year was $999. That's with me getting the highest level of discount possible on the insurance, and it's only liability insurance.

What is your budget? Lots of money, least amount of hassle, I'd say phone Currie, Dynatrac, etc and have them build you a D44, 9", or whatever that meets your specs. They can sell you a brand new bolt in axle. It will not be cheap, but all the parts will be new and it will be a nice product. Not so much money, a guy could find a MJ D44 and do a brake conversion on it. The 3.73 ratio is quite rare though, I'm not sure what option package would yield that, if any (4L trucks are always 3.07 or 3.55), so if you really want 3.73s you would have to plan on a gear swap, and you might as well put a Truetrac limited slip in at the same time. Plus all new bearings. This wouldn't be a super cheap swap by any means, I've got a couple thousand bucks into my rear D44 all said and done. I thick the cheapest option would be an Explorer 8.8 as 3.73 and 4.10 were the two common ratios, and it's easy to get them with a clutch pack limited slip, and the later ones are all disk brake from the factory. You would need new perches welded on for the springs, don't forget the companion flange and bolts for the driveshaft, and you will need to do some finagling to adapt the ebrake cables. It's a well built axle and they're very available used, but it does have the downside of being a bit narrow for the MJ, so a set of wheel spacers is a good idea with it. There's also the way overblown problem of it spinning the tubes in the pumpkin, which is easy to correct by welding the tube perimeter when the perches are put on. I farmed out the welding on my first 8.8 swap and I recall it only cost me the minimum charge in labour ($120) to have the perches and tubes welded, which was certainly worth it at the time, if you're unable to weld I would suggest doing the same thing.

Another thing to consider is my tcase is raised slightly for more clearance. I believe it will work fine with the tcase in the factory position. If a tcase drop is used there is a chance the linkage will not appreciate the added angle. You'll never see a tcase drop on anything I own as I view them as being a wholly counterproductive mod, so it wasn't something I gave much consideration to at the time.

That should be 4LO, but it was over a year ago that I took that picture so don't quote me. There's a lot of the snow on the ground, or I'd take you pictures of it in other positions.

If you undo the shift linkage and move the shifter handle there is no resistance, the only place there is resistance, or the position of the shifter is held by the shifter assembly (not the tcase) is when you hit the notch at the back of 4HI and have to move it over. Thus it is the only 'gate' in the shifter, as opposed to many other shifters that have detent pins, stops, etc throughout the travel; with a shifter like that the throw ratios are much more critical as you have maintain alignment between those points and the points on the tcase. I guess to be more technical there's the extreme ends of the travel past 2HI and 4LO as well, but they don't really count, you have some cushion there if things aren't perfect. It's a piece of 1/4" flat bar as that worked nicely with the thickness of the stepped portion on the stud of the tcase (I just drilled two holes and filed it out to make the correct slotted shape to interface with it). I don't remember if that was 1/4"x1.5" or if it was slightly narrower, either way adjustment can be made with a grinder.

It's so simple that people can't understand it. The throw ratio is 1:1 with the stock gate, the super complicated linkage that Jeep used is in fact effectively a 1:1 ratio itself. So the length of the arm I made is (center of the shift stud to the hole for the rod end, a second hole was drilled for no reason and I have always wondered why I did) the same length as the arm off the stock shifter (center of the pivot point to the hole in it that the factory provided). There only physical gate in the stock shifter is from the 4hi-neutral position, so as long as you're adjusted to hit that perfectly it won't matter if it is slightly out in the other positions, functionally mine lines up fine although I will admit I do not have a normal XJ/MJ to compare it to (my XJ has triple sticks). One can resort to using cables, or complicated linkages with bushings, or fancy laser cut parts, but there simply is no need. The stock linkage was designed to isolate NVH, and to provide some artificial feel/resistance to the setup. With this there is only actual feel, and the only resistance is that of the detent riding over the shift cam, and the actual shift collar in the tcase sliding into place. If one was not running a center console or regular interior, I would say it is preferable to not have the shifter attached to the body/chassis in any way, as there always will be issues associated with excess driveline movement in that scenario. However, if your motor and trans mounts are in good shape, it does not present any actual functional difficulty (this is for either my linkage or the stock one, both have the same issues if the mounts are soft/torn). Another note on cables is that the JK uses them from the factory. It's a terrible setup, but very good at isolating NVH. It also would have had a much lower per unit cost given the intended production lifespan, and very real savings regarding labour for initial installation and adjustment (or the fact there isn't any adjustment, more correctly) so they can do for a net cost of very few dollars what would cost many times as much for the aftermarket. I've only had it freeze solid a handful of times, and fall right apart once, and that's in the span of putting 40K kilometers on my JK. Meanwhile I can shift my MJ's tcase with no issues, and have no worry about breaking the linkage or a cable in the event it were to magically bind up...

You should be able to force it into basic HTML mode for slow connections (or in your case obsolete connections).

From the sounds of things they're polyurethane and yes, they will quite possibly make noise unless lubricated with the correct grease. That said it easily could be that something else is worn out or loose. Retorque all the suspension bolts, check the ball joints, wheel bearings, ujoints, steering, etc.

If you buy one of the ones listed on Rockauto to be correct you can just send it back if it isn't actually. You have to call them to do it, their automated return system won't let you. I sent back a cam sensor that was incorrectly listed before, they sent me a shipping label to do it. They were pleasant about the issue. Obviosuly there's some issues with what senders cross reference given what is going on with the listings on there.