DirtyComanche

Absolutely. I still wouldn't call the 3.6 "peppy." But the 3.8 really is a dog, especially compared with hopping in the Comanche that was 1000lbs+ lighter. My Comanche isn't fast either, but at least it felt like it was trying.

I owned it for 6? years, it's not like I didn't like it, it was just a... Jeep.

Goldilocks says the first one is too few, the last one is too many, but the middle one is just right.

Not sure if it was a good idea or not, but I sold it. Goodbye Pumpkin, or 'Project Ghey-Kay' as I more often referred to you as. I'll miss you, and your random ChryslerFiat electrical oddities, and your under built plastic bits that are critical to systems functioning that break in the cold, and your severe lack of power, and your traction control system that tried to kill me every time it snows, and your top that always leaked...

How do you get at the clutch with that? Or just power it out?

While I don't fully recommend it, many people have put the perches on without welding and then driven to where they could be welded. Personally I'd just do some math and have them welded on ahead of time. If you're going with a big lift you normally need to do an axle upgrade anyways, might as well get two birds stoned at the same time.

The O2 sensor on a Renix has a heating element in it to ensure accurate readings regardless of exhaust temperature. You can test them with a multimeter. Personally I haven't really read the rest of the thread, but you need to verify all sensor functions and that no injectors are stuck/leaking or plugs are bad before doing anything else. Otherwise it's just the typical guessing game as to of what might be going on, if there even is anything wrong.

Not really. Those are heims or rod ends, and aren't really comparable to a typical tie rod end setup. What you have is possibly stronger, but will suffer wear issues much quicker.

I'd just go SOA in the rear, then match the front to whatever that worked out to, then bumpstop as required and/or add springs or spacers to get it to exactly where you want it. However, if you want to do zero cutting or trimming, I'd just about guarantee you will need 6" lift and about 5" worth of bumpstops.

You need to see where the wires actually go. Yes, they may have used it to bypass the starter/ignition relay, which would be absolutely stupid but it wouldn't be a first, since all that stuff would have cost more money and been a big PITA compared with just swapping out the relay. What is still hooked to the starter relay? There should be a green (IIRC) wire from the center pin on it to actuate the starter solenoid, if that's still hooked to the starter solenoid then it's not that... Also could have been a charging or isolation system for a camper or trailer battery... There is a good chance that if it was for some piece of equipment that was removed, that the wires off it are just cut off and taped over somewhere.

Top one appears to be an old style starter solenoid, generic GM/Ford/Chrysler sort of a part, although most of them normally have 4 contacts. If that's the case, it's just missing the "I" contact, which wasn't always used. The other two look like they're self resetting thermal breakers (often referred to as fuses, but they don't fuse). Is there an inverter wired in the truck? Big HAM or VHF radio? Or some sort of device that needs a lot of power? It looks like it is set up to provide a switchable power supply that likely is keyed to the ignition. Of course without actually seeing where the wires go, who knows.

Do you know anyone that lives close to a Mexican border town or visits there regularly? It is the place to get good quality chroming done. Otherwise phone your local heavy equipment dealers and see who they use for cylinders, they may still be dealing with a semi-local shop.

You're viewing in mobile? The desktop site isn't too bad, but you pretty much need adblock. Once a forum gets sold to VerticalScope they just bleed it dry...

Interesting way to do it. I'll watch the videos in a bit here, but please post the rest of it.

Made in the USA, with global components...

He has bedsides, but he forms them in a brake rather than with a die. So they do not have the wheel arches, or corners, they're just a basically flat piece that's been bent with the basic body lines (he cuts a wheel well out of them, but it's just an opening, no edges or anything).

There's no off the shelf flare that will fit that. I'd Flexy Flare it. Or maybe it's Flexi-flare.

The Timken wheel bearings are only $83 Canadian from Rockauto... That's like $65~ US... https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1117784&cc=1179705&jsn=431 And if you have to go cheap there is some Mevotech ones for $35~ US each, at least that's the route I'd go out of the economy brands they have listed.

First I would check the cranking voltage output from the CPS. Lots of the aftermarket ones are junk, there is no saying you didn't get one that's bad out of the box, or that it isn't too far from the flywheel. After that, the ICM is kinda the only big component left in the ignition system. Since I have a spare, I'd try swapping it first. If I didn't, I'd probably chase some wires. You should be able to get a FSM with decent wiring diagrams off Cruiser's site.

97+ XJ, the redesigned body style. So 97 until 2001 or whenever they happened to stop making them. If you want to use that HO engine, you're probably best to swap it and the transmission and all the wiring and controls in, which means you're going to want the tcase too since your current one is 21 spline input, so you'd need to find one with the 4.0/AW4/NP242, which isn't rare so it should be doable. This is helpful if you want the newer "nicer" interior, as it means you can do the swap as a full feature affair and everything will work. 98ish? (somebody correct me if I'm wrong) they went to coil pack ignition, which is a worthwhile thing to have, but they changed to the 0331 head as part of this. The early 0331 heads were bad, and they've all either cracked or will crack. The factory fix was a later casting which was still an 0331 but had "TUPY" cast into it as well, who knows what that means but they did fix the cracking problem. (and Omega replied just as I was going to hit reply)

Time to swap a new harness in?

So you want a 97+ HO so you can steal the interior and get a few more ponies out of it? Because the interior really didn't change until then, it's all just minor differences or colours. Just don't get a donor motor with a 0331 head that doesn't have 'TUPY' on it.

I love it, and the name.

Neat Wildernest topper.

And they're called stovers by most people...