DirtyComanche

Okay, I'll tear the 21 spline one apart and give him that. The only thing I want out of the 21 spline one is the input. Actually I might just see if he wants me to do the swap on his. Not sure how savvy he is. No idea why they removed the tcase to start with.

I have a 21 and a 23 spline input here, he needs a 23. I don't know, I'm assuming he wants to keep the sealed slip yoke. And his has a mass damper on it too. If the stuff will just swap onto my case, I could give him the 23 spline one, but I'm not sure that it will 100% bolt on as I know the shift fork was different. The other reason I'm hesitant to give him the whole tcase is it's the spare for my daily, the 21 is a spare only for if I need an input. It's annoying, I threw out a bunch of pieces of NP231s a while back. Absolutely certain there was a case half in there that was good.

Lots of XJs in the boneyard with factory starters, alternators, idlers, etc with that many miles. Toyota reliability never impressed me, honestly. If you're not changing the engine, you're changing the frame.

Thanks! I did realize I screwed up some of the audio in this one too. Funny, it sounds different on Youtube then it does prior to being uploaded, and different yet when it's in the editor and not rendered. Live and learn.

A friend's father/brother broke the NV231 rear case half in their 02 TJ doing something stupid, I think dropped it on the floor actually, was a maintenance issue rather than a driving related issue. Anyways, I've got a couple 89/90~ NP231s sitting around and I'll tear the case half off one of them if it's the same, but the Crown replacement is listed for 87-96. I know the slip yoke is different, and the tail housing, but I don't personally believe the actual case half is functionally different. Anyone know for sure? I believe it should work and they just bolt their tail housing and other junk onto it. I don't want to tear the tcase apart and find out it's not the same.

My guy couldn't price it competitively. Was worth a try.

I'll look tonight.

Looks nice. Post pics of whats going on with the shocks or whatever.

Thanks. For anyone that might wonder, as I was asked elsewhere. I estimate there's approximately 50 hours of actual hands on work wrenching in this video, although it could have been trimmed through various means, and some of it certainly is on the cutting room floor. The raw video totaled approximately 7 hours, minus the stuff that was absolutely unworkable and I didn't even bother to pull off the cards, all of which I condensed into under 19 minutes. I have something along the lines of 30 hours of editing and recording the narration into this. So yeah, I know what you're thinking, "Wow, his video sucks for how hard he tried."

I'm guessing it was a fork that you'd hit with a hammer, or something like that, if it was really fancy it would be a fork you could put in a press. Rather than a punch a guy could put an open ended wrench or crescent wrench around it and hit the wrench, I suppose. Like I said, I've got brass punches and like using them. The good news is nobody else will ever likely see the underside of it, so if you do mar it a bit it, it won't be the end of the world.

It hammers apart. It's hard to describe. Too bad I threw out the one I had here, or I could take a picture of it apart. Basically you'll see there's a square "key" stock like piece that goes into the bottom of the bulb shaped piece of the upper part of the shifter, mount the lower square part in a vice and take a big cacksnorklin' hammer with a brass punch and hit the bulbed part like you're trying to knock some sense into a millennial. It'll come apart. Eventually. If you don't have a brass punch you can either accept you're going to mar it by using a steel punch, or you can try a piece of wood or something. I like brass, but I'm no auto mechanic.

That's funny.

The Global Shipping thing is insane. I needed a pulley, standard stamp sheetmetal serpentine pulley about 8" in diameter... Shipping is $46. Need overcomes cost. Meanwhile I see there's a whole cast aluminum intake and cast iron exhaust manifold setup for the same engine, shipping for that is $13. WHAT THE FUDGE!

That's smelling a lot like a bad ground.

I don't believe the one used from 84-90 or whatever is available. The later one is, and it will fit but the screw holes do not line up. It also allows for the hole in the floor for the shifter/tower to be cut out much more, which was why they went to that style. Crown and Dorman make the later one, I believe.

It makes no sense. I guess the figure the real holdback to dominating the Canadian market is the shipping costs, so why try? Amazon has the shipping thing under lock and key.

Those sales aren't valid for Canadians.

It may have a little breather cap on the shifter tower. Some did. The others vent out the boot around the shifter. Not a great setup either way.

You could replace the relay center and replace all the fusible links with one. Assuming it has enough holders for you. You need 3 relays unless you have A/C or want to move the fan or fog light relay, and I want to say it's 7 fuses to replace the links (less if you gang them like the factory did, which I've done before but don't recommend). You can get the required number of fuses down a bit by cleaning up the harness too, depending on what options you actually have.

Thanks. It is worth it as long as it passes cal, which I doubt it will fail.

Was it a retailer that has multiple? I could use one.

Cool. I always enjoy watching buildings get moved.

Yeah, it's been fine since I found the right settings and turned them off.

That's pretty typical in my experience. Comes in running fine, you say "Ah, I'll change the fuel filter because it probably needs it" and absolutely disgusting black fuel come pouring out of it... And it runs exactly the same after.

I think I've got a couple of those, and a couple that are just fuse holders, hanging out in my parts toolbox. Always handy to have that stuff around, you just never know when you'll need it. It's nice they actually give you the pins too, rather than just some pre-crimped pigtail garbage, so you either have to splice it or push all the pins out and start over. Actually, my biggest pet peeve with trying to buy electrical connectors is when they come as a pigtail rather than a plug with a handful of pins, it's not hard to crimp pins and it's 10000X more professional.