DirtyComanche

I was quoted $650 for one out of an XJ, as pulled with lots of klicks, so I didn't even ask about other applications. I might try again on Monday though. I really dislike non-synchronized reverse. Looking at the ratios on the NSG370 really made me think it would be the ideal option though, but with there being only a couple years of TJs to get one out, most of which were prior to them actually fixing the major flaws with it, of I'm thinking it isn't happening.

Thanks! I'm probably using an AX-15 mostly because I have one. I wanted a NV3550, no dice on finding one for an acceptable price though. The NSG370 was also a contender, but I couldn't locate one so I didn't do a ton of research into it. In retrospect I could have sourced a GM NV3500 or maybe a Dodge one, and bought a different adapter, I'd already committed on the adapter so I didn't really research those options either.

Thanks! Like I say, I try hard to keep the videos as professional as I can. I actually was laughing when I came up with that.

I believe it's already been said they have zero interest in making a 2dr. Not enough market, and they cited crash safety reasons. Lots of that stuff is offered on the "keeping up with the Jones" mentality. Unfortunately Chrysler doesn't seem to understand that the consumer might want to be able to PICK their options. If I could have ordered a JKU with the Rubicon lockers/tcase but base model everything else, and in the colour I wanted (which was a colour they offered for a couple years then decided everyone wanted either black, dark grey, dark blue, or silver), I would very likely have traded my JK in on it. I don't like power windows or locks. I don't like built in NAV units. I don't even want a damn CD player. The 8 speed auto is to satisfy CAFE (is the right one? ). Everyone has gone to 6+ speed autos or CVTs for that reason. Lots of the other fluff features are to to satisfy NHTSA (again ) safety requirements, but they get touted as features you want (tire pressure monitoring, braking assist, backup cameras, backup assist, lane departure warning, etc etc). Unfortunately they can't get away from these things.

A one piece top would be nice. So if you really, really wanted you could go topless for the summer, but at least it would still be simple to make (cheaper) and seal well. Fixed top would be okay too, but that's not the image they're trying to sell it under.

How about you explain what engine, transmission, etc you have and where you got them from? I'm guessing you have a 4cyl but I seriously don't know. I'm guessing you have incompatible parts regarding your engine/trans choice and/or whatever you did with the external slave conversion.

Yeah, I've got a couple jeeps.

If anyone reads this later on down the road, this works fine, as we suspected.

Loose wire or bad wire.

You can try this method though.

I really don't understand what parts you used. You're not bleeding it as per the manual though.

Thanks! I appreciate it. Just trying to get other things square away so I can get back at this.

This is good advice.

Super common for that rod to go AWOL. I'd lock the bias valve in the full position with a zip tie for now.

2Lo kit.

Did you bench test or look inside any of the these components before you swapped them in? I'd start with the shift linkage on the tcase, adjust it as per the FSM. If it's not that then something is broken, pull the front driveshaft and see if it's the tcase (front yoke rotates free while in 4wd position) or the axle (yoke rotates free on the ground). Also, if you got these parts out of the same truck then something is odd, since it should have had a vac disconnect axle. The tcase having the vac switch doesn't matter either way, if you don't have a CAD it doesn't really do anything, but you won't get the 'Part Time' 4wd light on the dash since it's triggered by the CAD via vacuum.

Good luck with the new job. As long as you're keen and willing to learn, you'll go far.

No, you can't just bolt them in even if you have the carrier. The pinion is larger and takes different bearings. The carrier isn't the same width, and also different bearings I believe. Hypoid offset is the same, but the cut of the gears is so different that the carrier offset changed, and the ring gear is also no longer 8.5" (I want to say it's 8.66" or so). Like I said, it can be done, but it's custom machining from the mad scientist Carl Jantz. The axles have very little in common beyond their name and outward appearance.

No. I'm giving him a rear case half.

It works, but you need to enlist the help of Carl Jantz at Jantz Engineering (I think is what he calls his business) to do the correct machining and provide you with the needed bearings. He's a master of stuffing the wrong gears in the wrong housings (D50 gears in D44 housings, D70 or D80 gears in D60 housings, etc), and there is some good reasons to do this. I believe he said that on paper the JK D44 geatset is 20-30% stronger than a conventional D44. The D50 gears nets an even larger gain, something around 40% better, but that's only for front HP applications. So if you're trying to build something high zoot and light weight, yeah, or trying to stay within class rules for competition, sure, but for the regular guy... No.

JK GEARS ARE NOT THE SAME! You can put JK gears in early housings but you do NOT want to go down that rabbit hole. A D30 isn't always a D30 and a D44 isn't always a D44. These model numbers no longer mean anything.

No, I'm just going to give him the rear case half. I'll junk the rest of the NP231 except the input.

What did you paint all of that with? Looks textured? Remote battery looks good. How long did the cables wind up being? Cranks it over no problems though?

That truck is long gone, was a shame I got talked into doing what I did with it. The license plates are still hanging up at my parents place, last time I checked.

I can't see the code so I don't know what the images were named. Best guess is it was some of these. That was a long time ago. In a galaxy far away.