DirtyComanche

This happens a lot. The cylinder wears out and it will let you turn it to the ACC position and pull the key. Try wiggling it more, I bet the actual lock position is a bit farther forwards then you think. Mine comes out in any position. New lock cylinders are cheap, I just haven't done it because I quite enjoy how mine is keyed the same as the doors (using the Chrysler bisexual key), and honestly it's a handy undocumented feature to be able to start it, pull the key out, then use it to lock the door.

Listing is gone?

Glad they finally recognized you for this. Too bad they didn't get it right in the first place.

Pressure regulator it leaking internally, or an injector is leaking, or the check valve in the pump is bad. You can pull the injector rail off (with the injectors in it) and key the ignition to run the pump, see if any of them weep. You can also vice grip the return or feed line to the rail after shutdown to probably determine if it's the pump or the regulator, but use some caution when doing this and only check the pressure is holding via a gauge.

Is auto parts considered 'outdoor'?

That's not good. At least he's off the ventilator though, so things are going the right direction. Scary stuff. We're all pulling for you HOrnbrod!

This is the first one I tried that actually worked in Canada. Of course I didn't buy what I needed with it. So uh, oops.

I'm not sure I would have been willing to get under that Libby.

They're not 12 point, they're regular metric allen/internal hex. If I said they were 12 point in the video then it was a mistake. Lots of guys unbolt them from the top I believe, so the motor mount actually comes off the K-member. That looked harder at the time, as there was some heatshields for the mounts that would be in the way, a guy could just bend them though. The flywheel bolts are 12 point (and stress relieved), I think that was the only real 12 point stuff I ran into. There's a bunch of other metric allen stuff in various sizes I ran into. The whole car has a lot of high end hardware on it though, so it's a bit odd to people that aren't used to it.

I'd read that before, and I believe it is accurate, but have never tried it. This is going into a Comanche? The super short SYE carries a price premium with no gain in our application, curious why you wound up with one?

You're not going to want to hear this, but I'd sell that SYE and install the normal short HD one from AA, and use your normal 2 wire VSS. That Dakota Digital converter box is a hack piece of equipment at the best of times. I'd go out of my way to not have it.

I'm using the Mercedes Diesel 4x4 adapter. A-MB202. It will work with an 4.0 bell pattern Jeep with the 3/4" pilot. It's sitting here (the Canada Post strike was finally resolved after it sat in limbo for three weeks) and I'm a little mixed on it, but I think it will work fine. I'll admit I didn't do a lot of research into the adapters that were available, I knew of the MD4x4 one and assumed it was the only one, and hadn't found much information otherwise until after I'd already ordered it. It's not like it was terribly expensive anyways. Another way to do it if a guy was running an AX-15 would be to get the Doomsday one and put a Toyota whatever it is (R151? It's the same trans as the AX-15) bellhousing on it; as while I haven't fondled one of his adapters, I think he's a bit more of a sticker for details. I also believe he's working on an actual Jeep adapter, but not sure if that's confirmed or if he was just musing. Also, I guess 4x4Labs makes an adapter for Toyota applications? There's another company as well, Bendsten's? https://transmissionadapters.com/collections/mercedes His stuff looks very nice, but it's all GM applications. I think if you wanted you could find a GM NV3500 pretty easily, since they made lots of them, and it's basically the same as a 3550, you'd just have to run a GM tcase or another adapter (not sure if the GM NV3500 is a regular 6 stud tcase pattern. If it's a 6 then GM NV241s are cheap and strong, and I think it's the same pattern as a Jeep tcase so you could just swap inputs, I don't know). I intend to go into detail on the wiring. That's down the road though. The Renix era harnesses are pretty easy to make work with any engine transplant, and I've cut down/rebuilt/simplified four of them already. This one is a little different than I'm used to since it's a 2.5L one, but pretty much the same. I'll fix the routing issue with it too, since the way AMC ran the harness in front of the radiator was less than ideal. Lots of details for this build are in no way set in stone, so everything is subject to change at any time.

I was quoted $650 for one out of an XJ, as pulled with lots of klicks, so I didn't even ask about other applications. I might try again on Monday though. I really dislike non-synchronized reverse. Looking at the ratios on the NSG370 really made me think it would be the ideal option though, but with there being only a couple years of TJs to get one out, most of which were prior to them actually fixing the major flaws with it, of I'm thinking it isn't happening.

Thanks! I'm probably using an AX-15 mostly because I have one. I wanted a NV3550, no dice on finding one for an acceptable price though. The NSG370 was also a contender, but I couldn't locate one so I didn't do a ton of research into it. In retrospect I could have sourced a GM NV3500 or maybe a Dodge one, and bought a different adapter, I'd already committed on the adapter so I didn't really research those options either.

Thanks! Like I say, I try hard to keep the videos as professional as I can. I actually was laughing when I came up with that.

I believe it's already been said they have zero interest in making a 2dr. Not enough market, and they cited crash safety reasons. Lots of that stuff is offered on the "keeping up with the Jones" mentality. Unfortunately Chrysler doesn't seem to understand that the consumer might want to be able to PICK their options. If I could have ordered a JKU with the Rubicon lockers/tcase but base model everything else, and in the colour I wanted (which was a colour they offered for a couple years then decided everyone wanted either black, dark grey, dark blue, or silver), I would very likely have traded my JK in on it. I don't like power windows or locks. I don't like built in NAV units. I don't even want a damn CD player. The 8 speed auto is to satisfy CAFE (is the right one? ). Everyone has gone to 6+ speed autos or CVTs for that reason. Lots of the other fluff features are to to satisfy NHTSA (again ) safety requirements, but they get touted as features you want (tire pressure monitoring, braking assist, backup cameras, backup assist, lane departure warning, etc etc). Unfortunately they can't get away from these things.

A one piece top would be nice. So if you really, really wanted you could go topless for the summer, but at least it would still be simple to make (cheaper) and seal well. Fixed top would be okay too, but that's not the image they're trying to sell it under.

How about you explain what engine, transmission, etc you have and where you got them from? I'm guessing you have a 4cyl but I seriously don't know. I'm guessing you have incompatible parts regarding your engine/trans choice and/or whatever you did with the external slave conversion.

Yeah, I've got a couple jeeps.

If anyone reads this later on down the road, this works fine, as we suspected.

Loose wire or bad wire.

You can try this method though.

I really don't understand what parts you used. You're not bleeding it as per the manual though.

Thanks! I appreciate it. Just trying to get other things square away so I can get back at this.

This is good advice.