DirtyComanche

There is no spools or mini-spools for D30s. I LOVE my front spool. With hydro-assist.

Your wrong either way. One is for if you have an AW4/AX-15 and the other if you have a peugeot. I think. Or you're right. I could look at my skids to tell you, if I could find them.

I've never heard of running synth on old seals or gears being a problem. If anything it'll swell the seals a bit. But what do I know, I only did it once (then never did again because $50 to change the oil in your rear end is BS). And the only additives you should ever need is if you have a clutch type LSD. Like the factory trac-lok. Then it's just a generic LSD additive. Most gear oil will even come with it already in it.

The reamer costs about $120. I'd have one other than NOBODY in canada stocks one. They're useful things to have around. Would have saved me huge headaches on the pitman arm BS I went through. At the same time, 15 minutes of reaming shouldn't cost you too much unless you're dealing with a cut-throat machine shop (100/hour, minimum 45 minutes work...).

I'd 'OTK' a stock-height 2wd DD. But that's because I'm insane. If you're steering is all worn to hell, look for a junkyard donor that's in decent shape.

I disagree. If this were the problem, jumping it would not have made a difference. Disagree if you like. I've seen it before. My own XJ did it. By jumping it you hit it with just enough more voltage to get across the dead winding and allow it to start spinning up. I say time will tell. If it won't do $#!& all in a week then I know I'm right.

Your starter has a dead pole/broken winding. It'll fail completely given time.

Yup. Unless there's a CAD issue.

It would be a better idea to run the correct length control arms.

It's all relative. As long as you know the truck isn't level (put an angle finder on the bed) and by how much, you can figure it out. Technically you're supposed to put the weight on the axle to check it. This complicates things. And I figure nothing in life is very exact. Truth be told, I picked a number that felt good and welded mine on, then popped it under the truck and wen't "jee, that looks good". I'm not about to say that's the best method though.

The true hi-9 is mucho better than the currie unit. The currie unit uses a 8.8 R&P, and doesn't have a 3rd pinion bearing. Which is garbage. Well, as good as a ford 8.8... Hi-9s are like 4 grand! Or more...

They make reverse rotation engines to correct that. Or, if you run a rear engine, it'll work out... But, MOST axles have oiling problems when flipped, and will explode/seize after a while. I keep thinking about a set of flipped ford 9"s. It makes no sense in the end though.

Lots. That common chart is mostly BS. Yesh, you should try to have the joints cancel each other. The reality is the velocity change you'll see in most of our applications will not cause an issue.

I've got multiple sets of 15x8 steelies out of the yard for near $100. I could have got 3 more AR-767s that were MINT to add to my 5 so I could sell to sets of 4. Unfortunatly, I sold my 767s 3 days before I saw those.

It's hit or miss. I THINK the NP208 is a 6-stud aluminum tcase, and shouldn't need an adapter plate. Depending what it is out of, the input gear spline might already be correct. If it is a aluminum NP tcase, a NP231 input should be able to be swapped in - most of the NP aluminum stuff is built the same (to save money). Hence, the NP231 is actually a pretty strong tcase once you get rid of the skinny mainshaft. As you can see, I'm not very framiliar with the NP208.

No, and No. For the front, if you want to use the factory parallel 4-link/5-link setup you'll either have to shell out the big bucks or make your own brackets. I'd pick up a 2wd housing to take measurements for everything off - or just use a 4wd one. It's just a bit of an undertaking... You COULD cut the brackets off a scrap housing (for the most part) but the factory brackets are crap. And a 2wd trans won't mount to any tcase but a divorce style. Which you don't want to get into... And to convert a tcase is a total rebuild.

.5" total. Theyre 6 lug too. Grand wags, newer ones. Uh... 81-91? I get this wrong all the time. Mine annoys me. grand wagoneers started in 84 i beleive Nope. There was an 81 at the yard with the correct D44 today. And there was an 88. No damn fords to pirate a HPD44 off though :cry:

no i was talking about just CV joint using it and making the rest or something like that. That's what my rear is. Uh, don't try lengthening a rear yourself. It might vibe a bitsy.

Yeah, they're good damn ooof. I put mine on tires ASAP so I could just roll it around. I picked up another 'suzu axle today. I can heft it into the back of the cherokee by myself :D .

That's the colour of my XJ other than all the paint coming off. I'm gonna redo it with a darker blue come summer, unless I wuss out or buy another time/money pit.

.5" total. Theyre 6 lug too. Grand wags, newer ones. Uh... 81-91? I get this wrong all the time. Mine annoys me.

It's called 'aggressive driving'. It breaks things.

No. I have yet to wheel with anyone whose air locker actually works more than about 65% of the time. I am confused. Your first post said this is a street truck. Then later in the thread it sounds like this truck sees the drag strip. Drag racing is not "street only." You have to realize that the two are almost mutually exclusive. For "street" a limited slip, like a Trac-Lok or TrueTrac, is by far the better choice. If you are drag racing, the ONLY choice is a Detroit Locker. Drag racing chews up the clutches in a typical limited slip very fast, and that applies both to the Jeep/Dana Trac-Lok and to whatever Ford puts into the 8.8 from the factory. The TrueTrac locks up more positively, but even for street use it is only guaranteed for up to 32" tires. I don't know how well it would hold up to doing hole shots, and when it breaks I doubt it'll be warranteed. Detroit locker. Only choice. I know a few guys that are heavy into the drag racing thing. Those who are hardcore run spools. Those who aren't run LSDs. I've seen no applications of detroits as they are expensive and have moving parts. Maybe guys run them, I don't know many drag racers anymore... And on the warantee... The truetrac is sold for street/strip applications. I'm sure they warantee them for reasonable power levels if installed in a correct axle. (Ie, they ain't gonna warantee a D35 one for 300HP. That's asking for trouble) Although, in a D35 I know you ain't gonna break it first. I broke the R&P on my D30 and the truetrac was quite fine.

In my front leaf spring thread I show how my 8k winch mounts behind my bumper, under the rad.

Well, the reality with parts for these trucks is that they WON'T be truely mass-produced. The stock bedsides were formed with a stamp; which I would assume the tooling for is long gone. Either way, that's the only way to mass-produce original quality peicess and it costs a HUGE amount to set up. There simply isn't a large enough market and never will be. The next easiest thing is to make them out of sheet in a brake. And with that there is limitations. That nasty little flange for the fender flare isn't something I could do out of one peice. The head sheety at where I work might be able to - providing you're using satin coat. That would take time, lots of it. It could be done with a second peice welded it place - it's all covered by the flare anyways. But hey, if you're already at it you might as well change the retarded design that jeep used. And I hear you on the corrosion. Although, with aluminum if you rivet it with an aluminum rivet - typically the rivet bears the brunt of the corrosion. Expecially if you etch/alodine the aluminum, and better yet use Alcladded sheet. But, alcald isn't cheap. Nor is good aluminum. Not that 6061 crap. Oh, there is actually fiberglass that is strong (novel concept) and doesn't fall apart constantly off-road. I'd never use it, just a personal thing.