DirtyComanche

Got pinion nuts? They're stovers - and shouldn't be reused. (Hey, there's a factory application of a stover for that other thread...) Anyways, Randys R&P, Reider Racing, etc all will sell crush sleeves. Ask about a crush sleeve eliminator if you want to save some headache (costs about $20).

It'll work with a 33. Quite well. I'd struggle to recommend 4" (or more) BS as you'll probably rub the CAs at full steering. Be wary of fender flare laws.

The shocks will undertravel the leaf springs. Which can cause them to explode, bend, or generally just stop working. That and it won't flex as well. I think Pete's is like that though. Mine isn't, I put new mounts on both the axle and frame side of things so that the 12" (travel) shocks give about 15" becuase of their angle. Now the only thing hindering flex is that the tires hammer the frame on up travel. And that I've got leaf springs.

Yeah... Or you could use a RE cartridge joint, a polyperformance uniball, an evolution sleeved heim (a heim with a poly sleeve) or several others that I can't think of right now. There's LOTS of joints out there. The ones I mentioned have adjustable preload. Johnny joints have to be shimmed with a washer as they wear - which is okay other than you have to get the washer. With adjustable ones you just need a spanner wrench or a hammer and punch (in a pinch).

Is that on a 15x7? Or 15x8?

A stover is a nut that the top is oval. It mechanically locks itself via friction. You can find them in high vibration areas where there is not clearance to run a castle nut. If you ever see a highsteer kit for a D44 - the nuts on the studs will be stovers. Likewise, the nuts that hold the spindle to the knuckle on a D44 are stovers. I can't think of any uses that you'd see on a stock truck.

I was gonna say that if it is just too short, you can use a stover instead of a castle/pin. Not many OEMs use them, but they work fine.

There is no spools or mini-spools for D30s. I LOVE my front spool. With hydro-assist.

Your wrong either way. One is for if you have an AW4/AX-15 and the other if you have a peugeot. I think. Or you're right. I could look at my skids to tell you, if I could find them.

I've never heard of running synth on old seals or gears being a problem. If anything it'll swell the seals a bit. But what do I know, I only did it once (then never did again because $50 to change the oil in your rear end is BS). And the only additives you should ever need is if you have a clutch type LSD. Like the factory trac-lok. Then it's just a generic LSD additive. Most gear oil will even come with it already in it.

The reamer costs about $120. I'd have one other than NOBODY in canada stocks one. They're useful things to have around. Would have saved me huge headaches on the pitman arm BS I went through. At the same time, 15 minutes of reaming shouldn't cost you too much unless you're dealing with a cut-throat machine shop (100/hour, minimum 45 minutes work...).

I'd 'OTK' a stock-height 2wd DD. But that's because I'm insane. If you're steering is all worn to hell, look for a junkyard donor that's in decent shape.

I disagree. If this were the problem, jumping it would not have made a difference. Disagree if you like. I've seen it before. My own XJ did it. By jumping it you hit it with just enough more voltage to get across the dead winding and allow it to start spinning up. I say time will tell. If it won't do $#!& all in a week then I know I'm right.

Your starter has a dead pole/broken winding. It'll fail completely given time.

Yup. Unless there's a CAD issue.

It would be a better idea to run the correct length control arms.

It's all relative. As long as you know the truck isn't level (put an angle finder on the bed) and by how much, you can figure it out. Technically you're supposed to put the weight on the axle to check it. This complicates things. And I figure nothing in life is very exact. Truth be told, I picked a number that felt good and welded mine on, then popped it under the truck and wen't "jee, that looks good". I'm not about to say that's the best method though.

The true hi-9 is mucho better than the currie unit. The currie unit uses a 8.8 R&P, and doesn't have a 3rd pinion bearing. Which is garbage. Well, as good as a ford 8.8... Hi-9s are like 4 grand! Or more...

They make reverse rotation engines to correct that. Or, if you run a rear engine, it'll work out... But, MOST axles have oiling problems when flipped, and will explode/seize after a while. I keep thinking about a set of flipped ford 9"s. It makes no sense in the end though.

Lots. That common chart is mostly BS. Yesh, you should try to have the joints cancel each other. The reality is the velocity change you'll see in most of our applications will not cause an issue.

I've got multiple sets of 15x8 steelies out of the yard for near $100. I could have got 3 more AR-767s that were MINT to add to my 5 so I could sell to sets of 4. Unfortunatly, I sold my 767s 3 days before I saw those.

It's hit or miss. I THINK the NP208 is a 6-stud aluminum tcase, and shouldn't need an adapter plate. Depending what it is out of, the input gear spline might already be correct. If it is a aluminum NP tcase, a NP231 input should be able to be swapped in - most of the NP aluminum stuff is built the same (to save money). Hence, the NP231 is actually a pretty strong tcase once you get rid of the skinny mainshaft. As you can see, I'm not very framiliar with the NP208.

No, and No. For the front, if you want to use the factory parallel 4-link/5-link setup you'll either have to shell out the big bucks or make your own brackets. I'd pick up a 2wd housing to take measurements for everything off - or just use a 4wd one. It's just a bit of an undertaking... You COULD cut the brackets off a scrap housing (for the most part) but the factory brackets are crap. And a 2wd trans won't mount to any tcase but a divorce style. Which you don't want to get into... And to convert a tcase is a total rebuild.

.5" total. Theyre 6 lug too. Grand wags, newer ones. Uh... 81-91? I get this wrong all the time. Mine annoys me. grand wagoneers started in 84 i beleive Nope. There was an 81 at the yard with the correct D44 today. And there was an 88. No damn fords to pirate a HPD44 off though :cry:

no i was talking about just CV joint using it and making the rest or something like that. That's what my rear is. Uh, don't try lengthening a rear yourself. It might vibe a bitsy.