DirtyComanche

Did you cut far enough down that you lost the inside handle too? You could get some sweet electric poppers like they do on the lowriders... haha. Those are expensive for what you get. A lot of people take the inside handle and mount it flat on the part where the door has been cut. And normally they throw a cupholder in there too.

6 on 5.5.

Personally, I liked the MJ as a DD better. I don't need more seating, and seem to spend a lot of time hauling stuff that could only be described as 'crap'. As it is, in the back of my cherokee I have the seat folded down to make space for the spare tire, my stump chains, 4 boxes of stuff to go to the dump, my tool-boxes (in case I decided to hit the boneyard). The carpet is now a greasy, dirty mess. And I'm always afraid I'll roll it and have all the stuff in the back hit me in the head... Had I not destoryed the cab, bed, and unibody on my MJ I would very well consider restomodding it and DDing it, and wheeling my XJ. Okay, maybe I'd not wheel the XJ. But the point is the MJ did really well on the street for me.

As far as off-road related upgrades, there's really two parts to look at: -linkages -hydraulics For the linkages, yes, the JCR stuff is top notch. It is highly resistant to bending/breaking, and if you flip it has much better geometry on a lifted vehicle. For the hydraulic side of things, there's a bunch of possible upgrades. A lot of guys use a newer dakota steering box as it has a better throw ratio and a greater force output. Also, you can drill out the restrictor valve in the pump, and modify the regulator spring to get some more pressure out of it. There's also aftermarket pumps avaliable - but they are way overkill for most applications. There's also hydro-assist (and full hydro) steering, which is generally overkill unless you run a spooled front and/or. large tires

D44 front? No. D44 rear.... Yeah. But it's hard. You have to turn down the centre 'hub' portion of the flange, and then there may or may not be enough clearance on the back side for stud installation. The problem is the 5x4.5 pattern is bloody small.

I like the visor. But the bra, well, whenever I get personal with ones of those I take it off.

They cost like $4. They're a decent investment.

Pickle fork?

Don't quote me. But it should fit providing you use a high ratio carrier.

WJs are different. I think it's 5 x 5 but I don't remember for certain. I AM certain that it is NOT 5 x 4-1/2 Yeah, they're 5x5. I have one outside...

I'd not bother putting mirrors on half doors. I keep knocking mine off.

The factory installed a visual warning for if you leave the headlights on.

OD green always looks good. I wish I had a tow rig.

Yup.

I never actually posted a pic in this thread. So, here. Poseur shot. Image Not Found

Poseur shots. Image Not Found Image Not Found

Yeah, the wag is LP. Ming has a few driveshaft issues because of that. That and I drag the thing on everything. When I pull it tomorrow (or whenever) I think I'll get a picture. As to if the scout is passenger side drop or not, I can't remember. It probably is. But something makes me want to say it isn't.

The full size waggy uses 1/4ton jeep (MJ) width axles (61 and 58.5 ish and ish). The scout is 58" (IIRC) front. The EB is about 58". J-10s and W/T cherokees use 64" axles (ish). J-20s and all other fullsize trucks use 67" (ish) axles. Some ford axles onlt track about 66" (front). Some 1-ton applications are as wide as 74". Rockwell 2.5s are 80" or something. So, unless you want to narrow an axle or go to full-width, only the waggy, EB, and scout axles are workable. Or a toyota front (ugh).

Probably not. I can't be sure, but I think that pattern will be 5x5, not 5x4.5 (jeep).

Both are hard to find.

Just pull it. It's just some rubber nubby thing.

Mine was in with polyurethane and I couldn't get it out. Took it to a glass shop, had them hot knife it. Cost $40 to do that and put the new one in. Worth it, IMHO. But, I'll never stand in the way of a DIYer.

I doubt he's talking front. If you don't install the seals in them ALL the gear oil you put in will wind up on the ground. Oh, and I'm pretty sure the rear have inner seals. Been a while since I looked.

It looks thin, but it's not. I did it on a slight angle, and now the lowest spot is that bolt hole. I'm at about a 1/2"-5/8" gain now, so about the equivalent of going up 1" in tire size. I can easily get another 1/4" if I cut it all out and use some 1/2" plate instead. And 'duh' to the diff cover. They're mandatory if you drive full throttle into rocks. And there'll be a truss.

Image Not Found I dunno if I should keep going. Maybe move that bolt? Or cut it all and weld in some plate? Image Not Found