DirtyComanche

I think pong has an XJ with one in it. I've made some posts/discussion about it. I looked into it and seriously considered it. As in I was about 10 minutes of work away from buying an engine (still don't know how I was going to get it in the back of the XJ though). I can't remember a lot of the specifics, but you'll need to buy/fab motor mounts, a tranny mount/crossmember and do a bit of work with the fuel/electrical and exhaust. The early 700R4s are horrible, luckily they've all blown up by now and been rebuilt. A lot of the S-10s came with NP231s or NP233s. The NP233 is just an electrically shifted 231, and can be made to work. I'd personally avoid it however. And NP231J (jeep) will fit in a NP231C (chevy). They're actually basically the same, other than they came with different input gears, and some chevy stuff was wide chain/6 planet reduction. I think the output yokes are different, but they can be swapped. Chevy does clock their tcases different though. You might need to do some cutting of the floor.

Weld everything but the axleshafts. Well, that might not be a good idea if it's a c-clip axle.

I need one of those clamp sets. I have a cross-slide setup like that HF one. I find I don't use it too often. It is useful for some things though.

Now people suck worse at selecting a suitable partner (to marry), than they ever did. Or maybe it's just that divorce is so socially acceptable now :nuts:

Or the sender is fuct.

Stop the suspense. Just drop the pan and get the numbers off the crank or measure the stroke. Or pull the head an measure the stroke.

Good call on getting me to look under the hood of ZJs. Those throttle cables are about 2 feet longer than a MJ one. I cut it down to size and stuck a bracket on it (not perfect yet) and gave the throttle a test. I get WOT nicely, and it closes up once you get off it. More updates to come. If I do more work on it today (its freaking hot...).

What are you going to sell? I don't have any aftermarket parts on my truck.

Wouldn't worry. I buried my temp gauge, then it built so much pressure it blew the block heater out of the block... The engine quit running about 30 seconds after that. Figured I'd let it cool off. I still run that motor in my MJ.

I can't help you. They aren't something I'm framiliar with. But, I'd get some junkyard parts and see if anything matches. The spindle in that kit is custom. But it stands to reason that they'd use the parts from something else for the rest of it to save money and really maximize profits. And yeah, unit bearings without a stub shaft = failure. I have stub shafts with the yokes cut off of them to make a 4wd axle into 2wd in a pinch. Well, had, I gave them away.

It depends what a guy wants to do... D44 parts are about the same price as D60 parts. Well, maybe 20% more. But for the strength difference they're a better deal. But the D60 can have a bad initial purchasing price. However, if you aren't planning to run large tires, a D44 offers better ground clearance. And is cheaper.

They all have it. Asssembly line friendly.

They lie in person too :nuts:

Wow, lost is? That's kinda scary. I looked into a it a bit. But it isn't cheap for me, especially as I'd only want it done for cross-border.

How wide is the block and washers? You need decent over-lap or it won't seal. Otherwise it should. Just crank them bloody tight. Like a 1/4 turn before they break.

My condolences.

I like to make fun of them. I don't hate them. Although, I can think of a guy with a toyota that I do hate... He works for an auto parts store.

The local dating sites are something like "Female sasquatch seeking committed male" Committed? Not to that.

If the 93+ is like that, I have a decent shot. There is an early ZJ and a couple Hoho XJs in that yard. I gotta go back there and get my dist gear anyways, so I might as well grab some other $#!&.

I don't know if I can track down something that new very easily. Although, there is a 4oh TJ in the yard... The intake actually comes with a short cable and brackets to route it around the carb/mixer. The intention then being that you'd bolt on that see-saw bracket like the early 4ohs use. Other than the manifold isn't drilled for the 4of style bracket. Apparently for an 84-87 YJ style one. Whatever that is. I might call these guys and see if they know anything about their own products.

I'll start this off by saying that today was of 'mixed' success. I sold my cherokee. Which is a good. I got not quite what I wanted, but close enough. And it is gone. I hope the kid who bought it doesn't kill himself with it though. I made him aware of what he should know about it, as to if he follows my advice or not is another matter. I mocked up my tank location and seriously debated going to a different tank setup. This one is bloody large. Really bloody large. I'm still not sure, but I managed to get it sitting in a manner that I think will be acceptable. First location: Image Not Found Way too high. It's a lot of weight to put up there. And I need space for the rad too. Image Not Found It'll also cause issues trying to put an X in the cage there. So, definatly not good. Image Not Found Dunno why I took that pic. Must have been a good reason. Another success (mostly) was I went to work on gettign the Offy mounted up. Image Not Found Mocking up for port matching. Image Not Found I had to use fender washers under the cone washers to have as much engagement on the manifold bolts as I'd like. These ones needed to be notched to fit the header. Image Not Found For the top centre ones I just needed to notch the cone washer a bit. Image Not Found The lowers ones just needed a fender washer. Mixer going on: Image Not Found I'm still trying to figure out the throttle. Apparently I need linkage brackets from a YJ. Other than YJs didn't come with the linkage brackets that were described in the instructions. I'm kinda going WTF on that one. I might be able to run a more generic throttle cable setup. Not sure yet. There's also a problem in that I couldn't align the P/S pump brackets with the tapped holes in the intake. I actually had to shave a bunch off the back of the bracket to get it to fit even. I'm not sure if only having it bolted to the water pump is wise? I think I'll put a belt on it and get it fired up and if it shakes too bade I'll figure out something. I can always drill/tap the intake. And here's how I finially placed the tank. Image Not Found It's way better. I just need to work on some brackets for the straps that hold it down. And it'll have enough clearance for an X now. If I use this tank or not is still up in the air. I'll need to clean it a bit and paint it if I do. I'm also considering mounting my radiator above the tank. But horizontally. I don't know if that would be legal. Or if it would work? I don't know about that either... But I want it somewhere where it won't get bashed by $#!&. If it's behind the tank it'll get bashed, I think. Unless I actually start securing stuff to my bed better... As to of what makes me consider this to be mixed success... Well, I need a dist. drive gear from an 81+ AMC 360. I can buy one new for $140 (wow, I love the stealer). Or I can get the junkyard one for $5. The problem was I went there but lacked the tools to pull it... So I gotta go back tuesday. But, more annoyingly, I think the parts stores hate me and jsut want me to @#$% off and never come back. I order in some gauges, and I ask specifically 'are these electric?' and was assured they are. Now I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge, and a thermocouple style temp gauge. Who runs a mechanical oil pressure gauge? I'm SURE AS HELL NOT. So, maybe I f'd up by not asking more questions on that one, seeing as I doubt electric gauges are entirely universal. And the temp gauge won't fit anywhere in the head, unless I drill some major holes. I also ordered an intake/exhaust gasket on thursday. I was assured it would be in friday morning. I went to pick it up today (saturday) and it was not to be found. But it had come. I told the guy I'd be back in half an hour and to look for it... I come back and he's sitting on his @$$ not doing @#$% all. Guess what? Look after your customers or they WON'T come back. So I went to a wholesaler instead and got one... I also asked more than one person about the topic of a nightswitch (battery isolater). Nobody understood me. Even after I described in detail what I wanted. Until finially it clicked with somebody. And they told me that they don't sell them. Guess what? I know they do - I went in with somebody when they bought one. I can't wire the truck without one (well, I can, but find that it complicates life as the switch location determines other things.) So, I guess I'll go to an electrical supplier now. Unless I can get that P/N off the other switch. Anywho... Tomorrow I'll go pick up the bender/dies. Monday I might jsut go buy a MIG. Or I'll put it off a bit. Then maybe I can make some progress and feel a little better about this thing.

IIRC YJs were available with em til the end in 95 Yeah, and they came with the worlds crappiest carbs. So normally they run like $#!&. Which means lots of YJ guys pull them and put in V8s. So you can get them cheap. And the same time, a guy can pull his 4oh and put in a V8.

You can theoretically off-set grind the crank and get 5L out of one. The reality is that it's not a good idea. Maybe not even possible from a practical point. The money invested makes no sense at that point, and reliablility could easily suffer. I don't know of one that has gone that far.

And there's lots of guys that do it in their back yard/garage.

A few problems with the 5.9 cummins... -It weighs about 900lbs turnkey. -It's a big mother. You think the 4.0 is cramped in a XJ/MJ engine bay - the cummins is probably 40% bigger in every dimension, and needs a massive intercooler and radiator.