DirtyComanche

Yikes... As I sit here eating my double chocolate muffin (okay, it's really more like a giant cupcake) for lunch. Best of luck bud, I'm sure you'll pull through it all.

You know the funny thing about that... I have NEVER heard anyone use that term, save a few instances on the intraweb. I had no idea what it ment, at all. :nuts: And to me, 'cajun' is a type of tater-tot.

Well, it's a 4spd auto (47RH) out of a 94... It's definatly 23 spline. I counted twice, and confirmed it... I had thought they might have changed the pressure angles on the splines eventually. If you say it was in 97, that will save me... But I should look into it.

Diesels are a lot of fun in the cold... Anyways, I have a few ideas. The worst would be it was started cold previously, and now has spun bearings. With my dodge, and most diesels (especially with glow plugs), you can get them to 'light off' with very minimal pre-heating, just it takes about 2 minutes before you'll have any oil pressure. The result can be lots of spun bearings. And often it will just show up as too slow of crank to start, or no crank at all. Buddy of mine is a HD... When we had the last cold snap he was changing engines like crazy from people starting them without enough preheating. Most of the customers would phone up saying they though the starter was bad, or it cranked super slow... Otherwise, I'd say stupid electrical issue (ground?), or it is just too cold. Fuel gelling shouldn't be your issue - the slow crank is. And honestly, you guys must get crappy fuel for it to gel bad at that temperature.

Cool, SD33T swap.

Thanks for the links... For $55 US, I can't really say no... Novak wants more than twice that. Either way, we'll see if I need it.

The plan if I kept the 231, which I didn't want to do, was to redrill the AW4 to clock the case flatterish. It can be done. But, the input for the 241 is too long. The clocking ring is money... So the first plan would be to see if I can viably shorten the 241 input, or swap the 231 23-spliner I have. I kicked around the idea of a box4rocks, or madrooster, or whatever... I don't know if I can make it fit well, and if I actually want one. I'm going to try this driveline in my XJ first, and the rear axle is staying in the mostly stock location I'm more opposed to buying one because they cost money, and I question the strength of a 241 behind one. Yes, the 241 came stock behind a cummins... That doesn't mean they don't break them. At the same time, it's not like this setup should be much weaker than an upgraded D300.

So, assumably I could figure this out myself, but I haven't got that far yet, and I figured it had been a while since I had made a thread of any sort. Anyways, the tcase in my dodge broke. It was, and still is, really inconvenient. However, I now have a 'spare' wrecked NP241D. It's from behind an auto and a cummins, I can't confirm it but it might actually be more like a '241HD' rather than just a 'D'. I need to take it apart and asses the damage, but if I only broke the shift collar I would probably get a new one and not return the tcase for the $250 core value. Oh, it's driver's drop, later dodges were. So, now, can I bolt it up to my 23 spline AW4? I know, as-is, I can't. The input on the NP241D is a 23 spline variant, if I counted correctly, but I am unsure if the pressure angle is the same as on an AW4 (I would assume so). It is probably too long, as a dodge 47RH output shaft is flush with the aft face of the tranny, and an AW4 protrudes about 3/4" (by memory). Novak offers an adapater (I think) that will allow a guy to bolt the two together (but it's not stated to do what I want, it's for something else). It is basically a round spacer, about 1" thick, and it offers provisions for clocking. Alternatively, I think I could cut the input on the NP241 down on the lathe, since the end result would basically be the same. Or, I am starting to guess, the input from my junker 23 spline NP231 could be swapped on without any hassle. Now, the other problem... I have a NP231 HD SYE. Yay. I won't be running a NP231 again, and selling a used SYE is pennies on the dollar. Anyways, a 231 HD SYE is basically a NP241 mainshaft that has been cut down and tapped, and a new tail-housing. Or at least the first HD SYEs were made this way - but I can't confirm if they modded anything else on the shaft. This leads me to think there is a chance that I can put the 231 HD mainshaft in the 241 case. I might be totally wrong - I do not have a 231 here to check with. Visually, the 241 chain-case looks to be wider, assumably to accomodate the wider chain. Again, I don't have a 231 to compare. This I think would be the only potential problem, unless I've missed something else. If the chaincase is considerably wider, the 231 HD mainshaft might be too short. So, why am I trying this? Well, the NP241D (or the one I have at least) has a 32 spline front output, along with the same for a rear output. I have the front flange to put a 1350 CV on the front of it already. I could buy one for the rear for a reasonable price. The tcase seems to make economical sense - if it will work. Wider chain, 6-pinion planetaries, HD outputs, apparently stronger casing, and it only weighs about 85lbs or so. I broke a 231 front output before, and hadn't come up with a decent option, save blowing tons of money on an upgraded D300 or buying a stak or atlas (money money). The other problem with all these cases is they shorten the front driveshaft, which isn't really ideal in an XJ/MJ platform. It seems like it should only cost me a rear flange for a 1350 CV, and perhaps the spacer and perhaps a NP241 SYE kit (if nothing else). So, thoughts? No, I wrote too much, nobody is going to read it... I should just do my own research.

With the tires closer to full lock, you should have less steering feedback and bind with the CV shafts. Will it be enough to notice? I dunno, I'd heard that you could. And apparently the CVs are stronger than a 260X. But a 260X ain't very strong.

But who wants to buy a sick dog?

Raise hell. I would NOT take kindly to that. There is too many whack-jobs in this world for me to feel comfortable with that.

Are you intending to run the 42s? :nuts:

Shocks. Maybe limit straps.

Oldie but a goodie...

Uh, if I read his post correct, he already bought a chewy to DD. So, give'r on the truggy project. Might as well.

I tried that route with a local place. Well, 3. They told me they can't, and that it couldn't be done. It seemed retarded to me. However, I know a guy who does glass professionally. I asked him and it was 'Well, bring it by and I'll cut one and install it for a case of lucky'. At that point I'd managed to find one from a wrecker and have it installed, but I figured it was good to know for future reference. It's amazing how useless some people can be, and how helpful others can.

I think in a couple of days if she typed 'pink jeep truck' in google, she'd find this... The bot is checking us out.

The chirping and squaking will go away once you get moving fast enough. Oh, and nobody even dare running one in the front without, at least, hydro assist.

So, in the US when you get hit by somebody without insurance, what happens?

Don't totally agree... For anything but a bush truck, a spool is stupid. Or a drag car, as you said. You can drive them on the street quite fine, and I did so. But, it's so hard on tires it isn't worth it if you drive lots. Also, people look at you funny when you squak your tires trying to park. Otherwise they drive FINE. You won't break anything that you weren't already going to break. IE, if you can produce a high enough torque loading on an axleshaft in a parking lot to break it, it was going to fail on the trail anyways! Often you have HIGHER traction, or at least resistance on the tires to moving, offroad than on. However, a spool is totally inappropriate for what the O/P wants.

I have one... The only reason for it is the 4.0L rad is wide, and would not fit with my narrowed clip. It worked well enough. I had issues, but that was my fault. However, it's totally bizzar because the coolant throughout the entire system gets to very different temperatures depending on the ambient temperature, engine load, and the fans... The temp would normally come up pretty hard - then the thermostat would open and the temperature would drop about 30 degrees in a couple seconds... Whenever I get back to it, I will drill a hole in the tstat to prevent it from swinging so violently. I also think I need a higher flow water pump. I would have to push the rpm up to about 1000 or it would over-heat at idle (albiet, idle is about 250rpm), just from lack of flow... To do it ALL over again, I would avoid the whole rear-mount setup. It was a huge PITA to bleed it. And you've got to run two hoses from the front of the engine to the back of the cab. Which might sound easy, but it isn't. Especially if you were contending with having factory wiring/interior of some sorts. I ran the one hose through the firewall where the fuse box was before, and the other through where the HVAC blower used to go. I couldn't come up with an acceptable method of running it under the cab. There isn't space between the frame rails with a tcase, driveshafts, link suspension, exhaust, etc. And you can't put it near the exhaust, or it won't work well at all... I thought about running it through some of my exo-cage or the sliders. This MIGHT have been a decent option, but the risk is you will damage your cage to the extent that you lose your coolant. And it would be even harder to bleed the system, not to mention having 'heated' rock sliders wouldn't be the best thing. If the uniframe wasn't the way it is, I'd actually try putting a hose inside the frame rails.

It's a tossup... For actual DD duties the LWB might be more useful, as it can fit more junk. Although, the short bed does just fine for most use, and parking is a breeze even in those crappy places called cities... For building a wheeler, I'd go short. For building more of an expo rig (long distances, camping, etc) I'd probably go long. For a street truck (lowered, v8 swap, etc) I'd probably still go short - it weighs less and I think the porportions look better. However, if the truck has a rake, I think the long bed looks better. So, umm, how about a couple of each?

You can shift-on-the-fly at almost any speed... Or you should be able to. The trick is having the wheel speeds all relatively equal, so going straight without having the rear tires spinning is best. The case might be a little worn, and thus not so happy about synchronizing. Short of a rebuild, too bad. I'd probably drive around town with it in 4wd all the time. That's what I did before I got my dodge... With it I shifted in and out, and what do you know? I broke the freaking tcase.

Always a sad site... The dent in the box is probably a result of being handled in the yard too... Is that an intercooler on the roof :nuts:

2.8L dog... Wish I could find something that clean, with a 4.0, and local, but for a lower price!