DirtyComanche

You can buy 'lead free' lead filler now. I forget who makes the kit... But w/e. It's non-toxic, works exactly like lead, but you can grind or sand it without needing a mask + tons of cleaning to avoid poisoning. The kit includes a couple wood paddles, some wax, and a bunch of rods of the 'lead'. Personally, I just bondo the fawk out of cheap vehicles. I know I will either sell them or junk them before it's a problem. Yes, I'm the 'stupid PO that didn't know how to do bodywork'.

Over-priced turd. It doesn't matter what it COST to build, it ain't worth anywhere near that. Throw in issues (stupid stuff like a seat missing bolts) and it makes me think either the seller is broke, or he doesn't care and is flipping something he overpayed for.

Walk in and ask for one? With either the size and weight of the item, or the item itself...

Got the one corner tacked in place... Image Not Found The hole is for the aforementioned flat bar for a recovery point, I decided I would be able to add it in later. The sheetmetal work isn't done under the tail-light, I'll get a picture of that whenever I do it. Basically, I wanted a slim rear bumper, not some 'ghetto booty' thang. Hopefully it comes out how I wanted. (And the picture looks like $#!& because of the smoke in the shop)

Another small update. I might take more pics in a bit, or not... Got the rear section all levelled, squared, welded... Other than there is no fishplates on it yet, those will come in time. I need to buy some flatbar for that. I also need to buy some 1.5x.500 cold rolled to make recovery points before I can do much more in the rear (they will go outside the frame and through the bumper). Image Not Found

Actually, NAPA told me they couldn't order the B nuts. If I wanted to make my own lines, I could either use AN fittings or buy short pre-made lines and cut the SAE B nuts off. In the end I did that. Slightly more expensive but, if you're screwed, what's the option?

Downtravel is limited by control arm angle (among other things) - after a certain point they bind on the coil bracket. Long arms aleviate this problem as the angle change of the arms is less. A bent arm does not affect the arc the axle swings on. Only the position of the bolts (pivot points) for the arms affect that, with a certain amount of error based on bushing and link deflection. But I'd ask what good a 2" longer LCA is? Unless a guy wants to extend the wheelbase about 2" and make some UCAs to match. At which point I think a guy would be better off making new LCAs and UCAs.

Most of the factory E-fans are possessed. On my blue XJ, it would run when it was about -30 outside and the motor wasn't warm. Test it as said. If it works, a 30A relay will be fine. A 20A will work too. The peak amperage might be a bit higher, but it's the running amperage you need to worry about... It's nice to be able to turn the fan off if you ever get into deep water - it'll save the fan blades.

Would look better on something that didn't have such a square hood.

Wow. That's a samilar price to el-cheapo shocks.

I'd probably just cut the yoke apart with an angle grinder (DeWalt Plasma). A $5 part is not worth a lot of time - espeically when I have tons of spares. I do realize that not everyone is in my position. However, normally those yokes can be found fairly easily.

What do they cost? I could look it up, but I'm not the type... My only comment right now is that reusing the factory style stud mount in the front seems kinda like a bad idea. However, since there isn't actually and GOOD alternative save doing some cutting and welding, it's rather a moot point. And you should use some DG/Addel clamps (I have no idea what the non-aviation term for them is, they're just steel line clamps with rubber cushions in them) to hold the braided line up in the fender, just because. Braided stainless tends to murder anything it chafes on.

If I got another one with a trashed bed, I'd probably do another flat bed or a custom step-side box or something. I liked my flat bed - other than the things I didn't do right with it. It looked pretty sharp, I think. Maybe I'm just weird :dunno:

Does the alternator have an external voltage regulator? Depending on the style, they can be a little spotty. Or they can be afflicted by what lots of newer vehicles (dodges, jeeps, etc) have, where the ECM has the regulator built into it. Then, when it goes bad (and it will) you need to either change the ECM or add an external regulator off something else. Given the vintage, I wouldn't suspect that. On aircraft, at least the few piston powered aircraft that I've worked on, it seemed the voltage regulator liked to die long before the alternator had problems. If you 4x4, typically the mud destroys the alternator, by fowling the brushes... If you don't, they'll last a bloody long time, thus moving the failure point elsewhere.

Nice windshield. YJ? It actually looks better than I had imagined such a mod could.

Got any pictures of during the swap? It looks like it fits pretty well.

I imagine there really isn't much wiring to that engine, once you boil it all down.

Got a NP231? If you want a HD SYE, I think I have one for sale.

Okay, only found a couple that will work for me. No biggy, I can make my own or get kraqa to laser me something if need be (he's local). Although, the 5" dewalt plasma will probably be doing it over spending money.

Cool. I wanna see. Hope he shows up.

Kinda a dismal update. Camera ran out of batteries on me... Cut the two frame rails for the belly section to length. Then I drilled some big ol' holes in them and welded in some tube as sleeves. Yay. Image Not Found Then I squared 'em up and tacked them in. Wait, I built that rear link x-member first. Okay, whatever. $#!& got done, it doesn't really matter how. Image Not Found And I tacked it my other braces... Oh, the 2x2 peice running retardedly through the whole thing and sticking out both sides, yeah, it's only a temporary brace. Anyways... The rear section is now kicking my @$$. Apparently there isn't anything solid that I can weld to back there anymore. So, I'll have to address that.

At work, we ship about 75% of our junk via greyhound. It's the only thing that reliably gets to half the places we work, save having someone drive it. I'd say I'm fairly positive about them. Never had any screw ups with my stuff.

I've decided I'll buy whatever I can for pre-fabbed brackets for my silly project. Time isn't something I have a lot of. So, I've looked at polyperformance, ruffstuff, and ballistic fab... Anybody else? I think I need a 15* bracket for 3.25" tube, 2.63" inside (for a JJ/RE large). Can't seem to find one.

swear alot and pull out the hack saw. I've done that a few times. Driveshaft yoke... Yup. 4 u-bolts.... Yup. 2 shocks... Yup. 1 brake line... Yup. 2 ebrake cables... Yup. Had I actually taken tools other than a BFH and a hacksaw, it might have helped. But I wasn't planning to pull an axle. :doh:

Can't wait to see it in paint! This is one of those 'out there' projects that I really enjoy.