DirtyComanche

Most of the factory E-fans are possessed. On my blue XJ, it would run when it was about -30 outside and the motor wasn't warm. Test it as said. If it works, a 30A relay will be fine. A 20A will work too. The peak amperage might be a bit higher, but it's the running amperage you need to worry about... It's nice to be able to turn the fan off if you ever get into deep water - it'll save the fan blades.

Would look better on something that didn't have such a square hood.

Wow. That's a samilar price to el-cheapo shocks.

I'd probably just cut the yoke apart with an angle grinder (DeWalt Plasma). A $5 part is not worth a lot of time - espeically when I have tons of spares. I do realize that not everyone is in my position. However, normally those yokes can be found fairly easily.

What do they cost? I could look it up, but I'm not the type... My only comment right now is that reusing the factory style stud mount in the front seems kinda like a bad idea. However, since there isn't actually and GOOD alternative save doing some cutting and welding, it's rather a moot point. And you should use some DG/Addel clamps (I have no idea what the non-aviation term for them is, they're just steel line clamps with rubber cushions in them) to hold the braided line up in the fender, just because. Braided stainless tends to murder anything it chafes on.

If I got another one with a trashed bed, I'd probably do another flat bed or a custom step-side box or something. I liked my flat bed - other than the things I didn't do right with it. It looked pretty sharp, I think. Maybe I'm just weird :dunno:

Does the alternator have an external voltage regulator? Depending on the style, they can be a little spotty. Or they can be afflicted by what lots of newer vehicles (dodges, jeeps, etc) have, where the ECM has the regulator built into it. Then, when it goes bad (and it will) you need to either change the ECM or add an external regulator off something else. Given the vintage, I wouldn't suspect that. On aircraft, at least the few piston powered aircraft that I've worked on, it seemed the voltage regulator liked to die long before the alternator had problems. If you 4x4, typically the mud destroys the alternator, by fowling the brushes... If you don't, they'll last a bloody long time, thus moving the failure point elsewhere.

Nice windshield. YJ? It actually looks better than I had imagined such a mod could.

Got any pictures of during the swap? It looks like it fits pretty well.

I imagine there really isn't much wiring to that engine, once you boil it all down.

Got a NP231? If you want a HD SYE, I think I have one for sale.

Okay, only found a couple that will work for me. No biggy, I can make my own or get kraqa to laser me something if need be (he's local). Although, the 5" dewalt plasma will probably be doing it over spending money.

Cool. I wanna see. Hope he shows up.

Kinda a dismal update. Camera ran out of batteries on me... Cut the two frame rails for the belly section to length. Then I drilled some big ol' holes in them and welded in some tube as sleeves. Yay. Image Not Found Then I squared 'em up and tacked them in. Wait, I built that rear link x-member first. Okay, whatever. $#!& got done, it doesn't really matter how. Image Not Found And I tacked it my other braces... Oh, the 2x2 peice running retardedly through the whole thing and sticking out both sides, yeah, it's only a temporary brace. Anyways... The rear section is now kicking my @$$. Apparently there isn't anything solid that I can weld to back there anymore. So, I'll have to address that.

At work, we ship about 75% of our junk via greyhound. It's the only thing that reliably gets to half the places we work, save having someone drive it. I'd say I'm fairly positive about them. Never had any screw ups with my stuff.

I've decided I'll buy whatever I can for pre-fabbed brackets for my silly project. Time isn't something I have a lot of. So, I've looked at polyperformance, ruffstuff, and ballistic fab... Anybody else? I think I need a 15* bracket for 3.25" tube, 2.63" inside (for a JJ/RE large). Can't seem to find one.

swear alot and pull out the hack saw. I've done that a few times. Driveshaft yoke... Yup. 4 u-bolts.... Yup. 2 shocks... Yup. 1 brake line... Yup. 2 ebrake cables... Yup. Had I actually taken tools other than a BFH and a hacksaw, it might have helped. But I wasn't planning to pull an axle. :doh:

Can't wait to see it in paint! This is one of those 'out there' projects that I really enjoy.

The chaincase around the front output is a lot bigger to accomodate the larger sprocket and 32 spline output. However, it's not like I'll have a problem with it rubbing my floor.

This is what I need, I think: http://advanceadapters.com/product/3721/(P/N-AS-8603)-Atlas-Transfer-Case-3/4%22-Install-Spacer.html I might phone them and see if it 'should' work or whatever.

Test fit of NP241 to AW4: Image Not Found The gap is about .500", using my calibrated eyeball. I'll give myself a +/-.250" tolerance on that. Anyways, obviously the long input on the 241 is bottoming on the output of the AW4. I have a couple options. I can cut the input down - it is splined as deep as a short input so there is no need for the extra engagement. I could potentially swap the 23 spline NP231 input in - I don't know if I can but I suspect I can. Or I can just buy a clocking plate for a D300 that is .750" thick, and get a couple birds stoned at once. Probably going to go that route - I know Novak makes one but it includes some useless seals and jazz. Advance might have one for atlas applications, I will have to look into that. NP231 tail-housing on NP241 chain-case: Image Not Found So, the bolt holes don't line up. Darn. It could be redrilled, but it wouldn't be ideal. However, on the contrary to what I thought, the NP241 chaincase is no wider/deeper than the NP231. That was measured by eye, again, as I left my calipers in PG. So, my NP231 SYE mainshaft should work, but I will need a NP241 SYE tail-housing. NP241 vs NP231 tail-housing: Image Not Found No point in this picture, but it shows the different patterns and you can sorta tell the rear bearing is larger on the NP241. So, yeah, didn't do a lot today but I needed to try that.

Plans change, don't tell me ya ain't never been there. :nuts:

Towing with a 2wd in snow is ALL about momentum. And unloading your jeep to recover your tow rig when that fails.

So... Did something. Got the shell mostly gutted. Enough for now, I think. I left some peices that need to be removed as they aren't really going to be in the way for now. And I levelled it out decently. The rear is a sagging a hair (about 1/8"), but that shouldn't matter. Image Not Found And my small collection of 1-tons + a D30 and some christmas lights. I have a 14B FF too, but I haven't picked it up yet. Image Not Found I'm fairly close to being able to start on my frame rails, I think. I can't buy steel tomorrow, so I think I might try BSing with my NP241 and see if it will adapt to the AW4.

You guys are calling out parts... I'd be haggling for the whole thing. Looks fixable to me.