DirtyComanche

I think it's easier to swap the drivetrain. Also, know what you're getting into with the mechanical ones. The 1st gen has a weak pump, so you have to be careful not to kill it (bad fuel or lift pump failure are the major issues), however it is okay for cold starting with synthetic oil. Also, the first gen transmissions are generally pretty 'meh', the auto is not a lockup converter, and the manual is a Getrag IIRC. Most of them don't have an intercooler, which is a big minus. Don't jack with the fuel adjustments on them too much either, or use caution if you're going to. Also, watch for the steering box ripping off the frame (push-pull setup, junk), and rust or cracking near the spring hangers and fuel tank. Also, they drive like something that was designed in the 70s, because, well, it's a 70s chassis.

I try to find the non-enthusiasts. The people that have grampa's old rifle/shotgun in a closet, and never think about it, and aren't sure if they're legally supposed to have it... But, that's another story.

And if I make a post looking for firearms, it gets flagged and removed :fs1:

It's not worth the trouble. If you think the regular CL buyer is a PITA, just wait until you get the stoner CL buyers...

What's it about? I'm a little behind with popular culture, living in a snowbank in the middle of nowhere and all.

It does have that shape. Silly stoners.

I believe that the Raptor has been something of a monentary failure for Ford. Too high of production cost, too much stuff they were willing to warranty... I would not be surprised if they are gone and don't come back. Of course, I could be totally wrong. I'd get the stuff that you know the aftermarket will not be supplying later. So, I'd not bother with bumpers, or the rims unless you can't live without them. But a bed, certainly, and interior parts are never a bad idea (especially parts that tend to wear).

I really like that octopus.

Do you own guns? 'Cause they have fairly restrictive laws. As it's looking right now, Canada will soon have better gun laws than most of the US.

Well, at least your house isn't frozen solid. What sort of furnace?

Nono, they're 'Spending their way out of debt'!

That's not even 'You suck' territory. That's more in the range of 'I hate you'. $450! I wish I could find one for that sort of price... And that I had a shop.

Good deal then. Sears warrantees everything, but torque wrenches only for a year... That's why I thought CT might be the same. CT does NOT warranty some things beyond a year though. Micrometers, and I believe digital/dial calipers, and a few other things... Even though they are labelled 'Mastercraft'.

I know nobody wants to hear it, but I use mine for disassembly sometimes. We have 200-1000 ft-lbs ones at work (S/O P/N is QD5R1000 if you want to see what one is worth) and we use them as breaker bars. They actually come with a snipe, and are 'calibrated' with the snipe on them. Experience has shown that they function the same with and without the snipe (as they should); you can't use it by yourself with the snipe on it in the application we have them for. We've had them well past the 1000 ft-lbs mark using them for disassembly, never an issue. Are you sure Mastercraft lifetime warrantees their torque wrenches? I thought they were only a 1 year.

That wouldn't be fitting with the general media objective of vilifying guns and their owners.

Before you jump right into that. I get about 500 miles to a tank on my diesel Dodge... Same amount of fuel as was getting me 260 miles in my gas GM. Decide if the premium is worth it, given that you're going to spend only 60% as much on fuel... (Assuming diesel is slightly more expensive than 87) When I bought my 08 Chevy, I was like "Ah, screw it, I don't drive it enough to need to spend a couple grand more for a diesel". Guess what? I don't drive that much, but it would have been worth it. Plus, typically you will see the diesel engines far outlive their gas counterparts. (Unless you buy a Ford, and the pre-06ish? Duramax are bad for eating their injectors unless the fuel filter has been religiously changed, and the high pressure lines have been changed)

Buy a diesel truck. GM or Dodge. There is no real savings to be had with having a 'commuter' and a 'tow rig', unless your tow rig is a gas sucking pig, or you can combine the insurance. I committed a sin in the spring and bought ANOTHER gas 3/4 ton truck. An 08 Chevy with a 6.0L. After I discovered that approximately $120 in gas got me 415km (260 miles), it hit me rather hard why I told myself I'd never buy another gas 3/4 ton (or larger). I also drove another GM 6.0L truck on my last crew change, it was a crew cab/short box, so it had a smaller tank (or so it seemed), and I was getting only 355km (225 miles) to a tank, which is quite frankly way too little range for my liking. So, I bought a 98 3/4 ton Dodge 24V for $3000 (as is, where is, left at the dealership in Smithers. About 4hrs from where I live. The parting words were 'It's leaking fuel really bad at idle, but as long as you keep your foot to the floor it doesn't seem too bad') and traded the Chevy for an 11 JK. Way happier with the diesel Dodge for general truck duties.

The lack of air filters, or even a FOD screen, intrigues me. I guess when you have that type of money, it doesn't matter.

As said before, no. You could order a trans cooler as an option, or it came with the tow package group or something... There's a recall for JKs burning to the ground, and they listed the cause as 'debris being caught in the transmission crossmember' and provide a $10 part as the fix. The actual reason is that the transmission boils its fluid, pukes it everywhere, then burns to the ground. They don't really want to admit that, as it would be expensive to fix. I bought a 6 speed JK instead.

The 87s I dealt with didn't have the cluster :dunno: Or I'm confused.

&nbspThere's decent over the shelf ones... Actually, I don't know anywhere that sells cheap ones up here.&nbspI had one blow apart due to corrosion... And that's it. The ones that corroded had been in there for a while (15+ years). Never had issues with any of the rest of them. I put silicone grease on the o-ring when I install them (DC-4), route the wire appropriately, and enjoy having a vehicle that actually might start.

I wonder if this light would survive me. I've killed Streamlights, LED Lensers, Coast, etc, etc... I'm lucky to get a 3-4 weeks out of one. I actually take 3+ flashlights with me whenever I got to work, as invariably I will kill one. My worst tour I destroyed a Coast and a Streamlight within the first two days, and my Coleman (cheapie) LED headlamp within the first week. I then resorted to my 18V Makita light (that uses a halogen bulb of all things) and a $2 LED light.

Huh, well, let's see what I can answer. You have a 86 and earlier Canadian gauge cluster. Without even knowing the year of that truck, I know it didn't come with it. It's also the most undesirable cluster, unless you're really bad at forgetting to get gas. It most likely has Cherokee bucket seats and center console... Hence the ebrake in the console thing. I bet it did start as a 2wd, it would explain the odd combination of parts... It's also likely why the 4wd light does not work, as the earlier ones used a vacuum switch to actuate it, then it just went to a normal old switch that was actuated by the shift rail in the tcase. Does the D35 have a rubber fill plug by chance? How'd they do the door mod? Cut hinges, or knock the pins out and weld in bolts?

Okay, do tell the story...Those are pretty decent trucks, and that's a great price!(And why is HTML enabled when I quote reply?)

But that's 2" of "The sky is falling and we're all going to die". Which is much different than 2" of snow, which is what would typically be seen in the more northern States.